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January 7th, 2013, 01:55 | #16 |
After trying a more powerful battery (at least a fully charged 8.4v large battery), the next thing to do is give it to someone who knows what they're doing, to most likely open up the mechbox.
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January 7th, 2013, 14:57 | #17 |
Yeah well Ill try the battery if that dont work ill get someone to open her up. Thanks for the quick replys guys!
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January 7th, 2013, 15:59 | #18 |
Guys if you suspect it's the battery being undersized or a heavey spring you ask when it dies does it just stop or does it lose Rof then die.
As he's stated that it just stops then the suspect is most likely wiring/connector. Get yourself a voltmeter and play with the gun until it stops when it does check with the volt meter. Disconnect the battery Put v/m on ohms and pull trig,test at the connector, no resistance? That means bad connection. Could be at motor, trig block, trig housing, or along the route anywhere each section can be checked but you may havta disassemble. Hope that helps, one thing to check for the motor is the connectors may be on securely but sometimes the wire breaks off the connector but the wire housing looks intact can be deceptive. |
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January 7th, 2013, 16:30 | #19 |
Fainting Goat, Dictator of Quinte West
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January 7th, 2013, 18:30 | #20 |
The power dropon your gun must be significant for it to go from full Rof to zero with no change whatsoever in Rof. I have never seen a battery just suddenly stop sending power, do the wires get hot?
But regardless his situation can easily be figured out with a voltmeter, check battery volts if there low charge use gun see how long it takes to happen then recheck battery if there's a huge v drop with little use something is straining it in the gearbox. If there's good power still then check wiring. |
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January 7th, 2013, 18:32 | #21 | |
Quote:
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January 9th, 2013, 16:13 | #22 |
Well the retailer said that it was the motor connection. I checked this and it happened last saturday on semi. Ill see what happens on the game on saturday
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