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August 7th, 2009, 05:37 | #1 |
Clearsoft DIY reinforcement
This should fit in here as many of you own guns that have clear recievers and such. You may start to notice weakpoints on the body as you begin to take apart and upgrade it.
I was just thinking about the stress I put on some of my clear plastic bodies while working on them (JG and Cybergun/Swissarms respectively). And decided that some key points (ie all the screw holes) could be reinforced by say a washer. But then I remembered that plastic to metal glues are kinda imperfect, so I scrapped the thoughts until it hit me! By making small 'washers' from other plastics you could glue the peice into the rear side of the hole, provided you file some of it back. I used the kind of plastic that I have lots of. Like old student cards or used gift cards, guitar pics work best for me. You will need: Hobby Knife File Punch/Drill/Dremmel Good glue that bonds the plastics First step. Ensure that the plastic you choose is pliable and clean, able to suply enough to finish the job. The screw hole will require a small amount but give it 1 square inch each. Second step. Gently file/dremmel the rear side of any screwhole that apears affected by strain the depth that would equal your chosen plastic. At this point it is imperative that you understand the whole entirety of the weapon, what is tight fitting and how deep this particular screw is going. Third step. Cut out a peice of the plastic in the shape you need, overestimate and sand into perfection. Fourth step. Dremmel/Drill a hole nearly the same size as the screw in the apropriate place of your plastic peice. Fifth step. Glue the plastic into the space you created for it. Do not use excess glue as this will make a mess and ruin the looks of the weapon. And now you have your reinforced screwholes! The use of a malleable plastic is to help the glue bond and the stress to be less effictive on the plastic reciever.
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Con Murder Dark Rhino L.A. Airsoft |
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August 7th, 2009, 11:19 | #2 |
formerly Sepulcrum
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Guns with screws going into plastic holes tend to be really cheap and it is always better to either; (if it's a decent aeg, G&G, JG,etc..) get a metal/solid black abs body for it or buy a good gun. I have a G&G cansoft and frankly when the clear lower reciever starts falling apart on me, I'm buying a metal one to replace it.
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August 7th, 2009, 12:24 | #3 |
Majestic Mornings rocking it like a Queen
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Wouldn't it just be easier to buy a gun from the classifieds that isn't made of dirt cheap materials? Or buy a replacement metal body.
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For anyone looking for age verification in the Windsor region: Unfortunately, I will only be verifying people at games, I am currently unable to run around and setup meetings. |
August 7th, 2009, 14:27 | #4 | |
For the Sig 552 I used this on the front body pin, the first four screws under the hand gaurd and inside the magwell where it screws into the hop up. These are high stress areas that will break before the mechbox, this is simple for me and gives me time to save for the metal body (its expensive in alberta for a recession hobbiest) that might help others.
Quote:
you get what you need.
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Con Murder Dark Rhino L.A. Airsoft |
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August 7th, 2009, 14:30 | #5 |
It would if my schedule matched with the local group that knows the verifier, and that is why I wait. One day I will meet this 'nachopudding' the speak of. But until then I got this done and shared it in the newbie tank. Just be happy man, I could have thrown it in the upgrades forum!
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Con Murder Dark Rhino L.A. Airsoft |
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August 7th, 2009, 16:07 | #6 |
will always be Mike Litoris in our hearts
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I think its a decent idea for those of us who cant find/afford a metal body. I have a GnG and i had to shell out through the ass for a metal lower, the clearsoft body on it is so frail. Good tip thanks!
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