Hi-Capa Build Up, Modification, Tuning and Upgrade Walk-Through Guide

[ILLusion]

Hi-Capa Build Up, Modification, Tuning and Upgrade Walk-Through Guide


I frequently get asked what sort of custom mods I do to my guns, what parts I put in to my guns and why I choose them. Rather than repeat the answer over and over again, I thought I'd create this guide that walks viewers through a build. Hopefully as time goes on, this thread will serve as an on-going guide to show new improvements, modifications, parts & upgrades that I try out or use on a permanant basis.

On that note, let's get started!




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The first step I take in building a gun is deciding on the look. Deciding this look or a theme in general provides a direction to take.

For this current project in particular, I decided to go all the way and pick an open division race gun. I know, all the mil-sim guys are groaning right now, but bear with me. A lot of the parts and modifications performed can and will also trickle down to tactical pistols as well. Some of the external components can be ignored, but it's the internal modifications that make ANY pistol perform better, such as altered trigger pull weight, trigger pull length, velocity and accuracy. Even reload times can be improved with changes made internally - not everybody has to have magwells the size of a VW Beetle to change a mag quickly!


Some key points that I wanted to achieve with this build:

- Based off 2011 design
- Fast cycling action
- High velocity
- Accurate shots
- Fast reloading
- Tight, accurate and comfortable grip
- Realistic to a similar real steel build
- Optics sight
- Compensated
- Aesthetics must look PIMPPPPPP and blinged out. No diamonds nor gold... polished surfaces will suffice. for now.



After a lot of research, these were some of the parts that I came up with for this build:


Slide:



I chose this slide mainly because of the sexy ports on it. It provides a lighter slide for faster cycling action and less gas consumption.
The production quality of this slide is very high and even better than Shooters Design at a little bit less than the cost of Shooters Design. Constructed from 6061 aluminum, this 2-tone slide is oxidized black with polished side surfaces and is "sort of" a replica of a real Shuey Custom slide. Shuey Custom is known for producing extremely high end tuned race guns and work on STI pistols as base platforms.

The look and hexagonal shape also goes well with the compensator that I had on hand that I wanted to use with this build...


Compensator:



This compensator is a replica of the style that Jim Boland use to make for his competition pistols. This replica is sold by PDI under the model name: "JB Comp". Besides what's shown in the photo, the kit also comes with an extended inner barrel (6.05mm tightbore) and an adapter that allows the compensator to clamp on to the inner barrel. PDI claims that the 6.05mm bore is the most accurate. I have no proof of this or otherwise.

I am planning on polishing the sides to match the 2-tone finish of the above slide.


Cocking Handle:



To aid in reloads, this side cocking handle replaces the rear sight. Seeing as how this pistol was to be built as an open division pistol, optics will be mounted via a frame mount and iron sights will not be required. Frame mounted optics that ride over the slide generally make gripping the slide to rack it a bit more difficult and having a cocking handle like this makes racking the slide to chamber rounds and show clear much easier.
It's available in both left and right hand models.


Outer Barrel:



This outer barrel I acquired was through the same OEM manufacturer that manufactures the slide, mid-frame, cocking handle and blowback housing used in this project. It is a one-piece 303 stainless steel unit that combines the outer barrel and chamber together. I had this barrel engraved with "40S&W KKM PRECISION" to match the Shuey Custom builds.

This outer barrel is quite possibly the NICEST outer barrel I have ever handled for airsoft. Besides the heft of stainless steel, it has an ultra smooth and ultra shiny polished surface to meet that all-important criteria of "PIMPTASTIC" blinged out look. After several trial runs with this outer barrel, I'm happy to say that it has picked up not even one scratch or scuff on it across the chamber without any lube! I wish I could say the same about some of the other expensive steel barrel sets on the market...

Fit and finish was perfectly mated with the slide. Dimensions were perfect straight out of the box. Again, I wish I could say the same about other brands... but you do get what you pay for. This outer barrel was not cheap - combined with custom engraving, it came out to a pretty penny.


Mid-Frame:



The heart of the 2011 - the component that brings it all together is the mid-frame. This model in particular I chose carries STI 2011 markings. It worked well with the Shuey Custom build, although after receiving the parts, I'm not so sure on the colour anymore. The side of the slide is a polished silver, whereas this frame is a matte silver satin finish. I'm considering changing it to a black one.
CNC milled from 6061 aluminum, this mid-frame features full length monolithic rails, which allow for a smooth cycling action and superior precision fit between all moving parts. The unique one-piece design makes disassembly and reassembly a breeze and ensures a precision fit each and every time along with greater durability - unlike many other mid-frames on the market.

The frame also comes with a steel sear & valve knocker that provide extra durability and buttery smooth trigger breaks.

It is highly recommend to upgrade the hammer to a steel unit as well when using with steel sear. The stock hammer is made from a soft pot metal that will get quickly chewed up by harder steel sears.


Grip:



The secondary part of the 2011 that sets it apart from a standard 1911 is the polymer double-stack grip that is seperate from the mid-frame. Being a seperate item, it is a highly customizable part with various styles on the market. This particular model I chose is the most common style available, in use by almost all 2011 manufacturers and also very flexible to custom modifications.

This grip is made for airsoft by Shooters Design (I believe WE also makes replicas) and comes with stickers, badges and buttons that need to be glued on to differentiate whether you are building a Strayer-Tripp International (STI Int.) or Strayer-Voigt (SV) model. Besides the badging/stickers, there are minor differences that differentiate SV from STI. Careful observers will know what it is. For the meantime, I set the grip up for STI.

The image of the grip you see above is actually of a modified model. Keen observers will note a modification to the trigger guard. Part of my build-up guide will discuss the modification.


Magwell:



This magwell I chose is a replica of the Dawson Precision ICE mag well which is in use by many top shooters.

The size of this enlarged magwell is of the larger variety and it does look a bit odd on a short barrelled pistol such as the 4.3, but it sure does make reloading a breeze. Its huge entry way allows for very fast reloading by easily guiding your magazine in to the well. The large base also allows your hands to rest on top of it a bit better for greater control of the pistol against recoil.

Just like the real Dawson Precision Ice mag well, the bottom face of this enlarged magwell is made of a synthetic/plastic material to prevent banging up your magazines any more than they need to be when you're scrambling to slam a new mag in to the grip to catch your next double-alpha.
The real mag well is designed with the intent to be able to swap the plastic base with a new one when the old one gets too banged up and this airsoft replica looks like it has notches to allow removal as well.
However, when I spoke to the airsoft OEM manufacturer about this, they informed me that there is no intention for after sales of the plastic insert as replacement due to the cost of that part being very high. The airsoft replica is also not compatible with the real part, so the real part can not be ordered to replace the airsoft version. However, if anybody is interested in the replacement, I can squeeze the manufacturer for replacements. It just won't be cheap and I was quoted a price of roughly 1/3rd the cost of the entire unit.


Springs:



I chose the Airsoft Surgeon 140% upgrade kit simply because the product offers a lot for the money and I like my recoil springs to be very stiff. It gives the gun a much more satisfying *SNAP* when you release it. Despite being labeled as "140%", I find this recoil spring to be much stiffer than the Guarder 150% spring set, which was previously the strongest spring I'd used... until Airsoft Surgeon released this one.

The recoil spring is an oil tempered spring, which provides for long lasting springiness and smooth movement. The kit also comes with an enhanced hammer spring (required for high output flow valves shooting propane, especially on warm days) and it also comes with an o-ring mounted on a synthetic piston head for greater durability over the stock piston head. For this build in particular, I will not require the piston head as I will be installing a light weight blow back unit that has its own built-in piston head.


Blow Back Unit:



This blow back unit shaves another couple of grams off the total weight of the entire upper assembly to achieve meeting my criteria for fast cycling speed and low gas consumption. This CNC machined 7075 aluminum part offers greater durability, fit and finish than the stock unit and mates perfectly with the slide.


Thumb Safety:



More bling! Nova makes these great steel polished silver wide safeties, which are close in dimension to the STI / SV safeties. I wish they made these in a satin/matte silver finish, but polished works just fine as well. It gives it that nice *sparkle*. They are pricey, but the fit is good and the price actually isn't far off from other brands such as Nine Ball.


Beaver Tail Safety:



Again, by Nova. Fitment to the mid frame is a bit tight and some filing may be required... will know more when I actually put it together. I'll cover fitment issues as I go through this build guide.
Besides Marui's 4.3 dual stainless Hi-Capa, there are no other silver beavertails available on the market. Although Nova sells all their controls for the Marui 1911, I've found that generally most of their controls fit Hi-Capa as well (except the mag catch.)
Again, steel polished silver for bling - would have liked satin/matte silver, but polished is fine for this build.


Slide Stop:



Again, this polished steel slide stop is made by Nova. Fitment is so-so at best - part of the mechanism even requires modding so that you can get the stop installed in to your frame (even on the 1911, which this stop was designed for) and again to get it to function properly with the magazine follower. The rotating arm is also a little bit short and does not go all the way through the Hi-Capa frame. It makes removal a bit difficult as a tool will be required to push it out, but with previously no other alternative on the market, this part will suffice.

I've actually scored a production run of satin-finish slide stops made by the same company who does the slide, mid frame, mag well and blow back unit of this project and should have them in country soon. They are also made of 303 stainless steel and the fit and finish should be a direct drop-in with no modifications required. I should have it by the end of the week and may end up swapping this part description. In retrospect, I should have gotten the polished version to match all the other controls I'm using for this build...


Hammer Set & Other Random Internals:



Again, this Spur hammer set is manufactured by the same OEM manufacturer that's built many of the other parts for this build. I have been working closely with them lately to bring many unique items to the market. They have many items that are of interest to many custom builders and although priced at the higher end of the spectrum, their products are of top fit, finish and quality. I have not seen anything better.

This spur hammer style I chose was used in some Shuey Custom builds I saw while doing my research. The manufacturer has many different styles available, but not having any pistols with this style yet, I decided to go with it. I may switch it up later to a new design that the manufacturer is working on.

These hammer sets offer much improved durability from its 303 stainless steel construction as well as a buttery smooth trigger break that I have not experienced with any other hammer/sear combo. I highly recommend these items and for the price, you get a lot from it. Included in the kit are:

- Hammer
- Hammer Strut
- 2nd cocking level pin (can be easily removed for full decocking mod)
- Sear
- Valve knocker

Both the sear and valve knocker will not be used in this kit as the mid-frame already comes with its own.


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So... that's the part list to date. There are a couple more items that I have to figure out such as the trigger choice (PDI just came out with one that I think I will choose for this build), hop up rubber (I actually already have a Firefly Hard hop chosen for this build... just haven't taken the photo yet) and the mag catch (trying to find a silver enlarged one... Nine Ball is no longer available anywhere).

I'm also waiting for the side mount to finish production. Will be going with a silver replica STI side mount with plans to mount a C-More Slide Ride to the unit. May also look in to custom drilling/tapping to have secondary hole sets to allow a DocterSight to be mounted. I haven't yet decided on optics for this. And yes, also waiting for a C-More as well.

Here are some mock-ups of the build with current parts:












Thoughts and opinions on the polished silver slide on the matte silver mid-frame?

And now, on with the build...

[RacingManiac]

looks sweet....maybe try to polish the side of the frame to get it to match the slide? Though that's why I got the black mid-frame to go with my (possibly) 2-tone next build.... Since that look seems to work ok with my SV....

On the side note, I do remember having to clean up the beavertail a tad to get it to install nicely to the frame. But it is very minute sanding of the engagement area and breaking the corners. Nothing nearly as bad as what I had to do to the SD grip....

[Daiviet]

Another capa, you're a beast Brian.

You're right, the slide and frame kinda look funky, especially since the magwell is polished too. You think you'd be able to polish the side of the frame yourself or would it turn out some strange colour?

[Amos]

Looks great...

I think it'd look better with a polished frame / black frame and with a 2 tone polished comp

[m102404]

Black frame. Polished sides of comp.

A stainless front sight filler with your logo lasered into it would look trick. Or black to match and lasered so the logo is silver.

Shinier grip screws

Black pin through the magwell.

Relieved left side section of grip for easier reach to the mag release.

That hammer looks sick!

Jeez...even the screw of your blow back unit is nicer than my pistol...

Please detail the internals as you get to them as well as you have the build so far!

[Crunchmeister]

So what other internals do you use in terms of valves, piston lid, etc?

[Shirley]

How are you going to aim?

Using a rail mount and a Red dot?

[RacingManiac]

Originally Posted by Crunchmeister

So what other internals do you use in terms of valves, piston lid, etc?

It's Airsoft Surgeon BBU, it comes with that red piston that uses O-ring. And I am assuming he will go with SD nozzle....

I think the whole point of going with a cocking handle is that he will be using some type of RDS...

[Shirley]

This is where the drilling comes in for the mount. :P

[m102404]

Illusion,

If you drilled and tapped for a DocterSight...would it mount right on top of the racker?...if you do and don't use them, you know you've got to get gold anodized filler screws, right?

The 3 holes on the 12 o'clock of the slide...are they ports? or mounting holes?

[MrEvolution]

ive never seen a cocking handle on a pistol before.
Im happy I came to you for my upgrades, haha.

[tmcde]

Wow! I just started shooting IPSC in September jumped right a bought a STI GrandMaster my wife just started got her an STI SteelMaster ..Anyway just started looking at Airsofts thought it would be great practice Where can I buy one that looks like this or my G.Master I want one..Sorry I was referring to the one posted by Illusion-High-Capa Build up

[Skladfin]

thank you... thank you...

[theshaneler]

bookmarking this page for sure!!!

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by RacingManiac

looks sweet....maybe try to polish the side of the frame to get it to match the slide? Though that's why I got the black mid-frame to go with my (possibly) 2-tone next build.... Since that look seems to work ok with my SV....

I think I may just leave the frame as-is and just get a black frame. I'm afraid that polishing will take too much out of the dimensions and the transition from slide to frame won't be as fine. I'm sure I'll figure out something to do with this silver mid-frame. Seems like all the slides by this company have a polished side (except the all black ones, that is.)

Originally Posted by RacingManiac

On the side note, I do remember having to clean up the beavertail a tad to get it to install nicely to the frame. But it is very minute sanding of the engagement area and breaking the corners. Nothing nearly as bad as what I had to do to the SD grip....

I had the same issue getting the Nova beavertail in to the SVI mid-frame.

Originally Posted by m102404

A stainless front sight filler with your logo lasered into it would look trick. Or black to match and lasered so the logo is silver.

I've been thinking about what to do with the front sight filler - your ideas with the laser etched logos are a wicked idea. I'm going to have to look in to that. Black with silver etching... mmmm....

Originally Posted by Crunchmeister

So what other internals do you use in terms of valves, piston lid, etc?

Ah yes... I'm not sure why I didn't detail those in to the first post either. I actually have most of them here... I always forget about the little things. Will put up a more detailed post of those items shortly.
But basically, Shooters Design loading nozzle & valve blocker and RCC Power Up Cylinder Bulb (that's their name for "rocket valve".)
Piston lid already comes with the light weight blow back unit. See the pictures - you can see it right there.
Release valves I'll be using the same ones installed on to all my Hi-Capa and 1911 mags: KM/Head 1950 valves. I've tested almost all models available on the market and the KM/Head ones seems to offer the best balance between high velocity and shot-to-shot consistency.
Mag bumpers will also be the same as mounted on all my Hi-Capa 5.1 mags: Shooters Design silver aluminum mag bumpers.

Anyways, I'll get more pictures and details up of these parts a bit later.

Originally Posted by Mr.Hitman

How are you going to aim?

Using a rail mount and a Red dot?

As stated in the first post, this will be an open division pistol. I'm looking at building this up to run with a frame mounted sight mount base. Optics choice is still undetermined, but I'm thinking of going with a C-More Slide Ride.

Originally Posted by Mr.Hitman

This is where the drilling comes in for the mount. :P

Yup, I'll have to drill and tap 5 holes in to the frame to do it. Thank God for 6061 aluminum... I doubt crappy pot metal mid-frames would hold up to a mod like that for long.

Originally Posted by m102404

If you drilled and tapped for a DocterSight...would it mount right on top of the racker?...if you do and don't use them, you know you've got to get gold anodized filler screws, right?

I think I'm done with slide-mounted dots. You saw how my performance was at our last practice with my slide mounted sight. Good idea... in theory. Bringing the sight picture up is at a much more natural height, but for whatever reason, my follow-up shots sucked. I had a hard time picking up the dot again after the first shot. Then again, it could've been the massive can of Rock Star energy drink I had right before the shoot. I was so jittery, I thought I had Parkinson's disease...
In any case, I was planning on mounting the DocterSight to the frame-mount rather than another slide mount. I like the fact that the sight picture doesn't move on each shot

Originally Posted by m102404

The 3 holes on the 12 o'clock of the slide...are they ports? or mounting holes?

They're ports. If you check my thread on custom slides from this manufacturer, you'll see they used this slide as a base on one of their project guns where they used those ports as a guide to drill out massive square-shaped ports.

Originally Posted by MrEvolution

ive never seen a cocking handle on a pistol before.
Im happy I came to you for my upgrades, haha.

It's pretty common for open division race pistols. I'd been looking for one for my Hi-Capa for a couple of years now.

Originally Posted by tmcde

Wow! I just started shooting IPSC in September jumped right a bought a STI GrandMaster my wife just started got her an STI SteelMaster ..Anyway just started looking at Airsofts thought it would be great practice Where can I buy one that looks like this or my G.Master I want one..Sorry one posted by Illusion-High-Capa Build up

I totally did not understand the last sentence of your reply, but I'll go with the rest of it...

I think airsoft is a great training tool for the real thing. By training with airsoft, you don't pick up bad habits of shooting real steel such as flinching or anticipating the shots which affect accuracy.

Where are you located? Airsoft replicas of the Grand Master do not exist on the market, but custom models can be built. For a top-quality custom build, expect to pay around $2200 USD. Yes, it costs about as much as the real thing.


I have the photos done for the next part of the guide complete - modifying the grip. I just need some time to do the write-up. Bear with me guys, my schedule's been real hectic lately. Sort of a bad time for me to be starting a project guide such as this...