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May 18th, 2008, 02:22 | #1 |
kos
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SAFELY (0 surface damage) removing Krylon from your rifle?
As the title states.... how would I go about it?
I've checked a couple of links, but none have given sufficient info. Apparently Break-Free powder blast works really well, though I'd like a second opinion... Thanks guys. |
May 18th, 2008, 02:26 | #2 |
Red Wine & Adderall
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Theres break fluid, although Im on the fence about break fluid. From what Ive seen it works, you submerge the item in break fluid for about an hour to 2 hours, and then work the paint off with a rough sponge. Although I believe it can weaken plastics. Ive only assisted in the procedure once, so I cannot offer any more insight.
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"Its only a little bit on fire" |
May 18th, 2008, 02:30 | #3 |
Le Roi des poissons d'avril
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On Krylon website, they say paint thinner... I have no idea of it's effect on plastic.
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Vérificateur d'âge: Terrebonne |
May 18th, 2008, 02:33 | #4 | |
i've used paint thinners to remove the krylon on my AK..
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Latest Infractions Received : Being a dumb ass - Inspired by pusangani Quote:
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May 18th, 2008, 02:35 | #5 |
aka "Rhonda", "Gaius"
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May 18th, 2008, 02:42 | #6 | |
there is no visible damage on the body...but i think frequent use or over use of thinner may weaken the body
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Latest Infractions Received : Being a dumb ass - Inspired by pusangani Quote:
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May 18th, 2008, 02:47 | #7 |
kos
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This is a metal ptw receiver... Also, I really don't want to submerge anything.
Last, last , LAST resort.... |
May 18th, 2008, 02:54 | #8 |
Try some hobby grade acrylic thinner.
I removed the paint from the G36K with that. No damage to the body what so ever. Even the selective fire markings where left untouched. I only had to brush the surface with an old tooth brush, then rinse it all with a wet cloth. *edit* Try Tamiya thinner, or Parma Fastcolor thinner. |
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May 18th, 2008, 02:58 | #9 |
From previous experience, break fluid is not a good idea. Well at least not on metal parts. My friend had brake fluid used to destroy the paint job on his car. If left on the car long enough, the only way to remove the fluid is to acid bath the metal.
Basically what happens is after a few weeks,even if you've washed the car, the paint will bubble and separate from the car. The car gets sanded, repainted, and after a couple months the same thing happens again, bubbles and peels away. Not a pretty site. Wait if you wanted to just get the paint off the body, this would work quite well. |
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May 18th, 2008, 04:54 | #10 |
Official Crybaby Chairsofter
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Painted your PTW?...
Paint thinner works, sanding works, wet sanding works, repainting works. |
May 18th, 2008, 06:10 | #11 |
Pick up a can of acetone. will remove the paint just fine but don't let it touch any plastic, it can melt it depending on what exactly it's made of.
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May 18th, 2008, 10:03 | #12 |
E-01
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If its metal just use paint remover. Apply with a brush, let it sit about 5 minutes while the paint bubbles, scrape off the goop with a plastic pallet/spatula. Follow safety directions (ventilation, eye protection, gloves).
It won't damage metals, it will damage some (many?) plastics.
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May 18th, 2008, 11:24 | #13 |
trichloroethylene will remove anything..dunno what the canadian brands are, never seen any at rona.
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May 18th, 2008, 11:32 | #14 |
Oh shit, if it's metal, brake fluid is definitely the way to go.
I've done it on hundreds of Warhammer models and it leaves them in great shape, the paint just flakes off. Submerge it overnight or longer (I've done it more than a week) and rinse off with a small stiff brush and water. Then degrease with dish detergent. |
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May 18th, 2008, 11:50 | #15 |
If its metal then Paint thinner will work just fine, on plsatics you'll have to be careful because to much contact with the thinner will eventually eat away at your plastic.
The thinner won't have any affect to your PTW body or the anodized coloring. |
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