JG HK 416 shimming

[Long_Bong]

Hi,

Anybody did a shimming job on the JG Hk416 and would remember what they use (0.1 mm, 0.15 mm and do forth)?

Needless to say, I m a newbie to shimming

Would this shim plan work?

http://arniesairsoft.co.uk/?filnavn=.../shimguide.htm

Thanks

[TokyoSeven]

I remeber reshimming my 416, it was a dissaster set up and it took almost half a pack of shims.
It was such a mess before I reshimmed it.

[Syn]

Shimming is more art+science. You will develop a feel for it.


I used these guides (for a g36, yours is likely different but the shimming concept is similar if not exactly the same) to help me and a tiny flathead screw driver to check play.

http://pageproducer.arczip.com/daedalus03/shim.html
http://www.geocities.com/wajoegween/aegshim.htm#*

here is more: http://www.858airsoft.com/upgrades/shim.html


about 3/4 into this video he starts shimming process (yes I know its a g36 but its nice to see video rather than just pics): http://www.mechbox.com/site/mechbox-...ade-video.html

[Relja]

For the love of god dont try shimming by yourself especially the 416, unless you are very experienced. It takes for ever and its very very frustrating. I ended up getting one of my knowledgable buds to do it for me after an hour of frustrating effort.

Originally Posted by Long_Bong

Hi,

Anybody did a shimming job on the JG Hk416 and would remember what they use (0.1 mm, 0.15 mm and do forth)?

Needless to say, I m a newbie to shimming

Would this shim plan work?

http://arniesairsoft.co.uk/?filnavn=.../shimguide.htm

Thanks

[PaCHeKo!]

Originally Posted by Relja

For the love of god dont try shimming by yourself especially the 416, unless you are very experienced. It takes for ever and its very very frustrating. I ended up getting one of my knowledgable buds to do it for me after an hour of frustrating effort.

Mmmmaoooahhhhhhrrrrr.... I don't really agree with you...

It always depends on your skills. If you are the type of guy who likes to repair/troubleshoot things around you then I think you should give it a try... Just be sure that you don't to use your AEG the next day... or have a backup airsoft rifle in your possession.

+ I don't know if you can get your hand on an old gearbox but dissemble/reassemble a gearbox before working on yours is always safer.

[Relja]

Originally Posted by PaCHeKo!

Mmmmaoooahhhhhhrrrrr.... I don't really agree with you...

It always depends on your skills. If you are the type of guy who likes to repair/troubleshoot things around you then I think you should give it a try... Just be sure that you don't to use your AEG the next day... or have a backup airsoft rifle in your possession.

+ I don't know if you can get your hand on an old gearbox but dissemble/reassemble a gearbox before working on yours is always safer.

Well i do agree with you but as a uni student = no time = no money = no extra guns = .

[Styrak]

Originally Posted by Long_Bong

Anybody did a shimming job on the JG Hk416 and would remember what they use (0.1 mm, 0.15 mm and do forth)?

Each mechbox will be different.

[Long_Bong]

I will try my luck with shimming it.

How do I know that I did a good job shimming it?

Some site mention, it should rotate without binding. What is binding?

Thanks

[Styrak]

If you have just the mechbox shell with the gears in [no cylinder or spring], and you stick in a finger or a screwdriver and rotate the gears, they should spin freely, or at least fairly smoothly.

[Syn]

Originally Posted by Long_Bong

I will try my luck with shimming it.

How do I know that I did a good job shimming it?

Some site mention, it should rotate without binding. What is binding?

Thanks

binding means "uncomfortably tight and confining". Worst case, gears lock up and won't turn (way too tight, too many shims). You don't want the gears to get stuck during anypart of spinning or this will put undue stress on the battery, mechbox parts and motor causing damage or failure of parts.

Gears should move more or less freely but without too much or too little side to side motion. Checked using tiny scredriver pushing axles through mechbox. On a more advanced level you should be looking to avoid gears sides scraping each other or the walls of mechbox like it shows in one of those links above.

[Nova316]

also when u put together to check if the gears are spinning freely, stick a few screws in not the mechbox espectally those around the gears. Just dont hold it closed with your hands since that'll usually produce poor results

[Long_Bong]

Originally Posted by Nova316

also when u put together to check if the gears are spinning freely, stick a few screws in not the mechbox espectally those around the gears. Just dont hold it closed with your hands since that'll usually produce poor results

I m not sure I understand that one?

[Syn]

Originally Posted by Long_Bong

I m not sure I understand that one?

He seems clear to me. When you are testing your mechbox shim job to see if it too tight or too lose, put the mechbox external screws back in to hold the halfs together. If you just hold the halfs together using your hand, thats no where nearly enough how tight your mechbox will be under normal use ( well unless you are superman holding mechbox).

[Happy_Killmore]

Here is an excellent shimming guide I used a long time ago, real easy to follow. Guide is toward the bottom: http://www.airsoftretreat.com/review...uct=67&cat=all

[Long_Bong]

Spend the morning shimming that 416...

It look good, but when I tight both screws beside the motor (the 2 screws at the bottom of the mechbox, near the motor) the gear (bevel gear) start getting tight and it get hard to make it rotate (what we call binding?). Any one has clue on how to keep it turning without binding and having the screw tight? I think that putting shim on the reversal latch and trigger could do it?

Thanks