|
|||||||||
|
Home | Forums | Register | Gallery | FAQ | Calendar |
Retailers | Community | News/Info | International Retailers | IRC | Today's Posts |
|
Thread Tools |
May 21st, 2016, 16:15 | #1 |
Help Upgrading my Cyma M14 please
I snagged a Cyma M14 EBR from Toronto Airsoft awhile back with the full intention of upgrading it over time. Today is the start of that journey, though I am having some difficulty out of the gate.
First off, I can't disassemble more than the top cover of the RIS for some reason, I've checked for all the screws I can and the only one I can't seem to reach is the one securing the lower mock barrel to the outer barrel. Is that what is making it so I can't remove the gearbox? Also heres my parts list for now: M120 G&G Spring Element Ultra Torque (Long) Lonex shims Still need to buy: Inner barrel (I can't find any 420mm barrels - Am I crazy?) Bucking (Prometheus looks to be sold out locally so I'm waiting for them to restock or to place a special order) Mosfet Goal is accuracy and range overall, without exceeding 0.2g @ 420fps (local field restrictions allow higher, but I'm not that crazy) Anyone able to give some help? Thanks! |
|
May 21st, 2016, 22:04 | #2 |
No intention of sounding like a dick, lol, but have you tried Google?
There is a wealth of information on many forums and ESPECIALLY on youtube on how to do a proper disassembly. The Marui (yours is a CYMA clone of this) version M14 is probably one of, if not THE, most tricky gun to disassemble - at first until you're familiar with it. Take your time and remember the order of the screws, as some from the gearbox are a different length than others. Also don't over-tighten the screw on the each side of hand-guard that screw onto the small metal piece on the barrel or you will have a bad day. Along with those videos, definitely watch all the other common ones like how to shim, correcting your AoE, compression, and others. When it comes to barrels, the Marui M14 ones are cut differently. Prometheus makes barrels for them, but many other companies do as well like ZCI. You are also ok with a 400mm, 407mm, or whatever - as long as it's cut for an M14, or has multiple cuts for any gun to use like this one (notice how it has two slots on the left - one for marui m14 type hopups and one for regular aegs). If it's longer than 420mm you'll obviously have to worry about hiding the extra length with a suppressor or something. You may want to look into getting a nozzle with an internal O-ring as well. For accuracy, it takes time... knowing your gun, testing, etc. A good start for your M14 would be a Modify Baton Ryusoku hopup bucking set (it's a flat hop style), paired with a Prometheus or similar stainless steel barrel. For M14s, you ill have to cut the bucking to fit. Super easy though - just measure it beside the original one the gun came with and cut. FPS consistency plays a big part too - since you want your rounds to end up in the same place each time. Last edited by -Shade; May 21st, 2016 at 22:12.. Reason: words |
|
May 21st, 2016, 23:03 | #3 | ||||||
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
|
|||||||
May 22nd, 2016, 15:15 | #4 |
I would stay away from G&G. I would go with either Prometheus or ZCI. The latter being the cheapest and is a really good bang for your buck. Just remember to clean the barrel once you get it.
The only difference really between the regular M14 and the EBR, apart from disassembly, is that the motor housing is different and the EBR takes a long-type motor - instead of the usual short type motors that the regular M14 and Soc16 take. The only difference between EBR and standard M14 disassembly is the hanguard/body. Once you remove the 6 or so screws at the top of the handguard and take it off, you need to remove the large hex screws on the side of the handguard. 1 on each side. Then it's pretty much a routine m14 disassembly from there (pulling on the trigger guard etc) Start the vid at about 1:28 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JK8UsVr4Riw Some more useful how-to vids for starters https://www.youtube.com/user/AirsoftingTutorials/videos Just remember to take your time. Lastly you may want to look into a sorbo pad as well. Sample list: SHS M14 Nozzle SHS M14 Cylinder head Sorbothane pad for the cylinder head SHS/ZCI high torque motor Gate mosfets are pretty decent with an M14 in terms of ease of setup (any 3034 based mosfet is good too, like nukefet) SHS m110 spring (M120 might be too strong maybe) If you feel the need to upgrade more compression parts: SHS/Lonex piston head (POM Material) SHS or Lonex piston, but I think the CYMA is pretty decent Your cylinder is probably good. If you ever do want to upgrade, make sure it's M14 specific Barrel group list: Modify baton ryusoku hop bucking/nub ZCI 407mm barrel if you don't feel like dishing out money for a prometheus SHS/Lonex/Guard bearing spring guide Last edited by -Shade; May 22nd, 2016 at 15:31.. |
|
May 22nd, 2016, 17:48 | #5 |
Thats as far as I've gotten, but my trigger guard won't move at all. I've removed the pistol grip and the crane stock but everything else feels solid.
|
|
May 22nd, 2016, 18:17 | #6 |
Pull harder, lol. You don't need to remove the pistol grip tbh - unless you are changing it. That being said, it doesn't take AEG pistol grips. It fits real steel ones somewhat. I've had the best luck with the ERGO grips.
|
|
May 22nd, 2016, 23:26 | #7 |
Several hours later.. I've taken apart my rifle and put it back together. Except now my charging handle doesn't work and the weapon doesn't seem to want to fire.
Whoooops. |
|
May 23rd, 2016, 01:25 | #8 |
My advice would be to take it apart again and test fire it when it's just the gearbox. Then follow the videos again and take your time while putting it together. The charging handle can be tricky. Many times the motor wires slide off when you're putting the wires through if they're accidentally pulled or caught.
|
|
May 28th, 2016, 01:37 | #9 |
I tried a few times and gave up - I couldn't get the spring and gears to sit properly and it looks like I had snapped part of the charging handle. So off to the tech! He's agreed to do a JB Weld of the charging handle as a temporary fix (Evike sells a reinforced version that I may end up ordering down the road)
Keeping that in mind, decided since I'm already paying for the labour, I might as go whole hog on the internals of the gearbox too. It looks like I found a vendor that has most of what I'm looking for so I'm picking up: Modify 8mm Tempered Steel Bushings Guarder V7 Steel Gear Set Modify Air Seal Nozzle - M14 Series Modify Enhanced Cylinder Head - V7 Lonex Extreme Toughness AEG Piston Magic Box Double O-Ring Aluminum Bearing Piston Head Modify Enhanced Cylinder (300mm-450mm) Modify Bearing Spring Guide - V6/V7 Down the road I'll splurge for the upgraded barrel and hopup. Part of him doing the repair will also include a basic tuneup - shimming, greasing... I'm not sure if he'll test for compression or AOE but I can always ask. Last edited by VA7POR; May 28th, 2016 at 01:40.. |
|
May 28th, 2016, 01:50 | #10 |
A bit of a critique so you don't get the wrong parts:
The CYMA M14 gearbox is 6mm - so the 8mm bushings won't work. Get 6mm. The CYMA gearset is actually made of steel and surprisingly very strong. I don't think guarder gears are compatible with the lonex piston. Modify nozzle is good. Modify head is good (get a sorbo pad too) Lonex piston is good Not a fan of double o-ring heads due to more friction. Lonex or prometheus POM are better. Even modify polycarb. You need an M14 type clyinder, but to be honest, you just have to polish the original one Spring guide is good Last edited by -Shade; May 28th, 2016 at 01:53.. |
|
May 28th, 2016, 03:13 | #11 |
I read that they were pot metal in terms of the gears - but I can wait to do them if that's the case.
Still hunting down barrels - about the only place I can find any in stock is the US. Might need to daytrip it to Seattle... |
|
May 28th, 2016, 10:08 | #12 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
|
G&G M14 is a very different design from the marui/cyma
The barrel won't work, nor will a new G&G hop chamber Guarder gears are made of cheese, I suggest SHS marui barrels have a proprietary cut (aftermarket barrels will be labeled "for M14", G&G M14 takes normal aeg barrels. So when they say "for M14" they mean the marui/cyma) double O-ring cylinder heads are a sham, they don't actually seal any better and I've seen them leak before Magic box makes terrible internals I suggest an SHS 14 tooth piston, cheap and effective Shade's got a pretty good list of parts there. Remember, all your range and accuracy comes from the compression parts, hop and barrel. The rest of the internals are purely for rate of fire and reliability. Cheap out with those, and you'll be fixing it often. |
May 29th, 2016, 18:52 | #13 | |
Quote:
If you're dead set on upgrading gears, and want the SHS M14 Specific gears - I'm pretty sure the USA sellers Brill Armory and Clandestine Airsoft stock them (and include the better bevel gear). Otherwise they're something I'd usually order from Asia as I rarely see it in stock in Canada. While ordering internals is perfectly legal and 99.999% won't get stopped by customs, the exchange rate is kinda crappy at the moment, and sometimes you may have to pay a duty/tax/brokerage fee on an imported item. Usually it's easier to order within Canada - if you can find the item here. As a side note, I've had nothing but positive experiences with all of those retailers. Last edited by -Shade; May 29th, 2016 at 18:58.. |
||
May 30th, 2016, 02:00 | #14 |
I've actually been putting together a price list through them. I want to minimize shipping costs where possible so trying to find 1 or 2 main suppliers for the parts.
|
|
|
Bookmarks |
|
|