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July 2nd, 2014, 23:32 | #1 |
Mosfet, motor and battery question
Hi, it's my first time upgrading an AEG's electrical system and I have a question for you AEG gurus.
So I got a Gate NanoAB mosfet hooked to a lipo 7.4v 1600mah 20c, and a SHS high torque motor. I changed all the wiring and got deans connectors. This particular setup seems to be working fine after some testing. However, if I try using the stock battery, a 8.4v 1100mah, it fails to spin the motor (even when it's out of the gearbox). If I remove the mosfet, the 8.4v spins the motor just fine. Also, the stock JG motor will work normally with the mosfet and the 8.4 battery. So either the mosfet or the high torque motor on their own pose no problem, but both together will cause the stock battery to stop working. Is this behaviour normal? Does the mosfet impedes the stock battery's initial amp peak to the point it cant even overcome the neodymium magnets? I'm not too worried as my lipo works fine with the high torque motor + mosfet combo, but it would have been nice to have the 8.4v as a backup battery. Thanks |
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July 2nd, 2014, 23:36 | #2 |
"bb bukakke" KING!
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does that mosfet unit have voltage cutoff/monitoring? what gearbox as well?
the shs motor is a very power hungry beast. Though with no load it should still function unless there's a voltage cutoff issue. A low charged 8.4 can read pretty low voltage, probably even below what a 7.4v lipo's safety cutoff would be set at.
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I futz with V2s, V3s and V6s. I could be wrong... but probably, most likely not, as far as I know. Last edited by lurkingknight; July 2nd, 2014 at 23:38.. |
July 2nd, 2014, 23:45 | #3 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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Keep in mind voltage drop as well.
The battery will do nothing but send wattage, but if the motor needs more amperage, you'll get deeper voltage spikes. If the mosfet has voltage cutoff, it might be reading those voltage drops as the battery being too low. |
July 3rd, 2014, 00:03 | #4 |
"bb bukakke" KING!
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it's odd though it's not a merf so it shouldn't have a cutoff. it's just the AB fet.
Something else is up with it maybe.
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I futz with V2s, V3s and V6s. I could be wrong... but probably, most likely not, as far as I know. |
July 3rd, 2014, 08:16 | #5 | |
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It's a V3 gearbox (JG G36), completely stock except for metal bushings and a shim job. I was under the assumption the 8.4 battery should be almost on full charge, as I haven't gamed it since I last charged it about a month ago. But I'll double check the voltage it gives tonight after work. Thanks for the quick replies. :tup: |
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July 3rd, 2014, 11:49 | #6 | |
Oh we do hate you, just never felt like wasting the time to give you a user title :P
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the likely issue is its the stock battery, those nicad/nimh things kinda suck as it is, then u get one that has sat on a shelf for a cpl years and suddenly they cand even shoot more than a few hundred rounds before they die. Id say stick with the lipo, u should be able to play 2-3 games on one charge with that.
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FinchFieldAirsoft |
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July 3rd, 2014, 14:25 | #7 |
I'm going to take a stab in the dark here, since it's your first time upgrading. Are your old battery's polarity wired correctly?
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What kind of airsofter are YOU? |
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July 3rd, 2014, 18:51 | #8 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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Active braking doesnt reverse polarity, it just shorts both poles of the motor and "disconnects" the battery.
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July 3rd, 2014, 19:37 | #9 | ||
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Gotcha |
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