Upgrade to a DMR

[Whiskey1968]

Hello folks!

I am new to this sport (love it so far ) and I purchased a G&G CM16 R8-L. What I am planning to do is upgrade it to a DMR.

I wanted to use a 80mm or 110mm suppressor and lengthen my inner barrel.

What upgrades would I need to do? I want FPS to be between 420-440 for game requirements. Or would I be better off just buying a DMR designated rifle?


Thanks guys!

[Spike]

Make sure you get a good quality inner barrel. Your hop up bucking that came with the gun is actually awesome in terms of regular buckings, so you can continue to use that for now.

Grab yourself a prometheus, PDI or ORGA 6.13 barrel and install it (you don't NEED to get a longer one, but you can), do the teflon tape mod to your hop up unit when you install.

For full internal upgrades I would recommend:

Sorbothane pad
Type 0 cylinder (if it doesn't have one already)
New wiring + basic mosfet
Torque up motor
3S lipo
M120 spring

[Whiskey1968]

OK. Great...thanks for the info.

[ThunderCactus]

-Most fields require a DMR to be a copy of a real world DMR (So no P90's with 16" barrels and bipods)
-DMR's are upgraded, accurate/long range AEG's, but upgraded AEG's can also have long range and be just as accurate
-DMR's sometimes have a higher fps range, but few people take advantage of that fps by using heavier ammo

A gun at 470fps and 380fps will have extremely similar range on .30g BBs
But the 470fps gun will have better range if it uses .36g BBs

[Whiskey1968]

Good to know ThunderCactus, thanks.

So my current gun (the one I am going to upgrade soon) is shooting at a 415fps average, as stock.

Would you recommend using .25, .28 or .30 with with that fps? Once I upgrade I will surely be using .30 or higher for better range and accuracy.

[Spike]

You should still run at least 0.28s with it as it is now.

[Whiskey1968]

Excellent...thanks. Great info guys. Much appreciated

[airsoftjunky]

May I throw in my 2 cents and say that the longer barrel will not really give you a huge or any increase in accuracy. Others will argue that, and if you had a mp5k length barrel you were lengthening, I'd say go for it. The barrel in your gun is already long enough to do the job. In my experience, if you don't mind the length of the silencer, leave the inner barrel out of it, because it WILL dampen the sound just a little. At DMR shooting distance, it will make it significantly harder to pin point where the shooting is coming from if your hidden well.

[ThunderCactus]

^he's right, anything past 400mm is unnecessary

[Whiskey1968]

Thanks again for the info.

[Comeau-SCS]

Originally Posted by Spike

Make sure you get a good quality inner barrel. Your hop up bucking that came with the gun is actually awesome in terms of regular buckings, so you can continue to use that for now.

Grab yourself a prometheus, PDI or ORGA 6.13 barrel and install it (you don't NEED to get a longer one, but you can), do the teflon tape mod to your hop up unit when you install.

For full internal upgrades I would recommend:

Sorbothane pad
Type 0 cylinder (if it doesn't have one already)
New wiring + basic mosfet
Torque up motor
3S lipo
M120 spring

The type 0 cylinder would be needed only if he gets inner barrels longer than 455 mm or the widebore one. A longer barrel than that isnt adding that much acuracy.
I would add a maybe to the list wich is a piston head if the airseal is not optimal between the piston and the cylinder. However I would test it before buying one .

[lurkingknight]

both my p90 and g36 (247mm vs 407mm barrels) both shoot close to 1.5J I use .3s and .32s to great effect in both guns. Both are very capable of hitting targets up to 70m away, maybe 2 in 3 when the wind is low.

Anything close to 400fps with a .2 should be shooting heavier stuff... .28s I feel are still too light for this output. The issue is that runnig ammo that heavy can get expensive. :P I find though I shoot a lot less with heavy ammo because more often than not I get the result I want in the first couple shots.