CA25 URX: RIS is loose.

[DeeFour]

I recently bought a Classic Army CA25 URX carbine. I've gamed it a few times and loved it so far. But today, after I got home from a small game, I noticed that my rail system was loose and would rotate a little bit. I've googled around and couldn't find much that could help me. Hopefully one of you fine gent's have an answer.

EDIT: It also seems the gas block is loose as well. Hmph.

Cheers.

[Danke]

OK, remove flash hider, remove gas block, use URX tool (like this one for example http://airsoftdepot.ca/catalog/produ...roducts_id=792), tighten barrel nut, and replace gas block & flash hider.

[DeeFour]

Yikes, 70 bucks for metal rod with a specific cut on the end. Such is the price for "Tacticool" URX's..

[Wildlife]

Yeeah, or you could grab a piece of suitable steel pipe (1.25" OD, 1/16" wall thickness for my G&P URX) and grind or file the end to fit, then drill a couple holes in the other end to fit a piece of rod for a T-handle.
I sure as hell wasn't gonna pay $45+s&h (overseas price) for what is essentially a bit of pipe with tabs on the end. :P





(don't mind the rust, this was made a few years ago.)

[Stealth]

Wait till you see how much a real steel KAC URX3 tool is.... LOL

[Stealth]

We'll be getting some URX2 and 4 tools very soon in the webstore for much less than the $40 that G&P is charging.

[ccyg8774]

I used a method of tightening the URX handguard without special tool.
First remove the side bolts and remove the lower portion of the handguard.
You should be able to see the "ring" with 4 slots on it.
Try turn the handguard with your hand, you should be able to tighten it but it won't align right when it is tight.
Turn the handguard in the other direction so you will loose the handguard even more.
The "ring" is very loose right now, so you can tighten it a little bit (not all the way) by push the slot on the ring with a flat head screw driver.
Turn the handguard back so it will be tight. You may (or may not) have to keep the screw driver on the slot, pushing gently as you turn the handguard. Only pushing to make sure the ring is turning with the handguard or you may over tighten it.
You may have to go back and adjust the ring several times to get the right tightenness at the right alignment, if you over tightened the ring at any stage.
After you get it perfect, maybe... Put some removable threadlock on it? I didn't have any threadlock the last time I tightened my URX. I will try it next time.

This method have been tested on CA25 URX and DBOY SR25 URX.

[Kos-Mos]

Originally Posted by ccyg8774

I used a method of tightening the URX handguard without special tool.
First remove the side bolts and remove the lower portion of the handguard.
You should be able to see the "ring" with 4 slots on it.
Try turn the handguard with your hand, you should be able to tighten it but it won't align right when it is tight.
Turn the handguard in the other direction so you will loose the handguard even more.
The "ring" is very loose right now, so you can tighten it a little bit (not all the way) by push the slot on the ring with a flat head screw driver.
Turn the handguard back so it will be tight. You may (or may not) have to keep the screw driver on the slot, pushing gently as you turn the handguard. Only pushing to make sure the ring is turning with the handguard or you may over tighten it.
You may have to go back and adjust the ring several times to get the right tightenness at the right alignment, if you over tightened the ring at any stage.
After you get it perfect, maybe... Put some removable threadlock on it? I didn't have any threadlock the last time I tightened my URX. I will try it next time.

This method have been tested on CA25 URX and DBOY SR25 URX.

Will not work in all cases, as there are TWO locking rings in an URX (usually, the ARES uses a tab that fits in the receiver instead).

First one is threaded on both sides to hold the rail to the receiver, second is to lock against the first to prevent rotation.

You can make the tool.
Or buy it like I did, not THAT expensive if you modify your weapon and it's a major Plus value when selling the gun.

[ccyg8774]

Originally Posted by Kos-Mos

Will not work in all cases, as there are TWO locking rings in an URX (usually, the ARES uses a tab that fits in the receiver instead).

First one is threaded on both sides to hold the rail to the receiver, second is to lock against the first to prevent rotation.

You can make the tool.
Or buy it like I did, not THAT expensive if you modify your weapon and it's a major Plus value when selling the gun.

It worked on my Classic Army CA25 URX carbine, and the OP have a Classic Army CA25 URX carbine, so...

[Kos-Mos]

Originally Posted by ccyg8774

It worked on my Classic Army CA25 URX carbine, and the OP have a Classic Army CA25 URX carbine, so...

Well, my friend's car did not start because he forgot the lights on, it's probably the same reason why mine won't start tonight, since it's the same brand...

So maybe your rings where still locked together and only moved as one.

In any case, the best, non destructive and permanent solution that guarantee it will be aligned is making or buying a tool.

[ccyg8774]

Originally Posted by Kos-Mos

Well, my friend's car did not start because he forgot the lights on, it's probably the same reason why mine won't start tonight, since it's the same brand...

So maybe your rings where still locked together and only moved as one.

In any case, the best, non destructive and permanent solution that guarantee it will be aligned is making or buying a tool.

I know my method may not work in all models and all cases, but I think it is still worth posting it, and it may be helpful for the OP. After all, we were facing the same problem on a identical gun. My method is unprofessional but cheap and harmless, if it works, great. If it don't, it does no harm and waste only 10 minutes before he go buy the URX tool.
And I don't think your car analogy is a very accurate one. If you have a specific car model that is know to develop problem on a specific part in a specific way, would you try to be sarcastic to a unprofessional but costless suggestion of fix, that have been tested on the exactly same car model, exact part, and exactly the same way?