meff 3.2 install

[Hectic]

Okay so im going to wire my merf in "advanced mode"
I see there are two options and im wondering if there is a major difference or benifate to one way over the other.
The one way is to connect the two motor wires to one of the tabs on the trigger switch and then one signal wire from the merf to the other contact on the trigger.
The seccond way is to wire the motor right to the battery and then run two signal wires from the merf to the trigger (one to each tab) it says this it the "low resistance wire" setup but im sure it works even with stock wires.
So what are the differences or benifates or does it make no difference? Id assume there should be some difference between i just cant find any explination.

[wind_comm]

for most people, there's no real perceptible difference. I prefer 4-wire fets and installs because I can make them cleaner by running both motor wires through the back hole in the grip for rear-wired setups (and also not get my 16awg wire chewed by the pinion).

other people run incredibly demanding dsg setups with fets way more powerful than the merf on 3-wire installs just fine.

I think its supposed to be a matter of whether or not you want to use all new wire or rejigger your stock harness.

[Hectic]

Rejigger lol nice word i love it.
Okay so either option is fine then. I guess ill eliminate the weak link in the one motor wire by just soldering both the positive motor leads to the one tab on the trigger switch and running the one wire to the merf seein as im just reusing the stock wires

[K3vX]

Originally Posted by Hectic

The seccond way is to wire the motor right to the battery and then run two signal wires from the merf to the trigger (one to each tab)

This is how I've wired the NanoAB (Same config as Merf 3.2 Advanced wiring) without any difficulty. It's pretty easy to do, and is the method I prefer honestly.

The choice is yours, but I preferred to have the trigger only handle the signal, and not the current too.

[Hectic]

Yeah i just finnished doin it the first method and im seeing that itll be prety dificult to rerun all the wires (namely the two power wires) from the trigger back to the stock so ima do it the four wire method then ill only need to run those two skinny ass wires to the back and motor leads to the battery (well merf the battery)

[Stealth]

Test the MOSFET before you reassemble everything.

Check for any shorts in wiring.

Both methods will work. I've done both. On V3 boxes 4 wire is easier because your motor wires just run outside of the mechbox.

[ThunderCactus]

I actually prefer the 3 wire method if you have to run the trigger wires internally, less wires to get caught on the bevel gear

[Hectic]

Actually i found out it will be less wire to run sort of.
I would uave had to run one power wire and one signal wire from the switch under the motor gear this way i only have to run two signal wires they ard much thinner so less likely to get chewed up by the gears. But yes i will have to run the signal wires with the motor wires out the back but there seems to be enough room in the chanel for em. I may get the wire stealth has as i thinks its a lil thinner and lower resistance then stock.

[DustMagnet]

I did my NanoAB with a 4-wire install (then swapped in the MERF later).

I figured if I've got the thing apart and I'm modifying the wiring I'm going to just do direct runs to the motor.

Although this was on a VFC "V2.2" mechbox (trigger assembly outside the shell).

Still, I have a standard V2 install to do for the NanoAB now and I'll still go 4-wire.