March 17th, 2013, 22:24 | #1 |
Magpul masada mosfet
Hey everyone,
I couldn't find an answer to this, so I hope it's not a repost! I'm looking for a mosfet for my magpul masada. I know that it might be tricky to get a version 2 to fit, but does anyone know of a model that works? Thanks! |
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March 18th, 2013, 01:19 | #2 |
takagari
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Mosfet a dont have versions. Unless you mean the trigger mosfet
Which can be installed with a lot of work. I have a thread going on it. Not easy or cheap. A simple none ab will work though
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Eddie Creek, MB Airsoft Field, Valken Dealer, Local Age Verification [COLOR="DarkOrange"][B] |
March 18th, 2013, 11:30 | #3 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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Due to the microswitch, its recommended you not get an AB mosfet
Anyway there's plenty of room in the handguard, but you can also fit a mosfet in the stock & run the battery wires up front, or just have a small stick battery in the stock as well |
March 18th, 2013, 15:01 | #4 |
Thanks for the info.
I was looking into something like this: http://www.btcairsoft.com/ Does anyone have any experience with these? Thanks again |
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March 18th, 2013, 15:33 | #5 | |
Oh we do hate you, just never felt like wasting the time to give you a user title :P
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Merf 3.2? http://www.airsoftstore.ca/index.php...roducts_id=135
Simple install gives 3rnd burst, ROF control, trigger arch protection. Just by plugging in between the battery and gun. Or you can wire it to the trigger for more fetures. I have one i love it. Great service from airsoftstore as well. They also have a cpl other fets
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FinchFieldAirsoft |
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March 18th, 2013, 15:36 | #6 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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The problem is the microswitch trigger. It causes intermittent trigger signals to the sw comp, and if you have active braking it causes it to activate everytime it detects a break in the trigger signal, causing excessive motor heat, mosfet heat, and slow rof
Microswitches are a terrible idea lol |
March 18th, 2013, 16:07 | #7 | |
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March 18th, 2013, 17:13 | #8 |
I've heard a lot of fun things about the microswitch.. LOL.
My first real gun and I get caught up in the externals. Hehe. It does look awesome. I'm thinking about maybe just not messing with it at all, but if there is a Mosfet that would work, fun to know! |
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March 18th, 2013, 17:35 | #9 | |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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There's a standalone comp that's not a mosfet that debounces it but I haven't seen a regular sw comp that fixes the issue I believe a higher quality microswitch usually fixes the issue though, as was the case with ca249s |
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March 18th, 2013, 23:10 | #10 |
takagari
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You would think so. But sadly no. They have a. $60 denounce computer you can buy. Along with a MOSFET. But so far no comp fet can do it out of the box. Makes me sad
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Eddie Creek, MB Airsoft Field, Valken Dealer, Local Age Verification [COLOR="DarkOrange"][B] |
March 19th, 2013, 00:21 | #11 | |
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I mean can't it be fixed with a logic gate and a capacitor? |
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March 19th, 2013, 02:12 | #13 |
Harvester of Noobs' Sorrow
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i just removed the retarded switch all together from my buddy's ACR. milled out some material on my Mill and fitted a Raptor X120 into it. was awesome until the shit gearbox blew it's front off. really disapointed that the PDR-C uses the same switch.. (shakes fist at MAGPUL PTS, WHY!!! why let Ares design the internals... T_T SOB )
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Weapons Technician / Gunsmith Don't look at me, I don't know, lol ¯\(°_o)/¯. |
March 19th, 2013, 10:23 | #14 |
Mr. Silencer
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Any pictures of the modifications needed? I'd be interested to know how to install a standard V2 switch into it.
Unfortunately I don't have the weapon in the lab right now but we get asked this question a LOT. |
March 19th, 2013, 11:51 | #15 |
Harvester of Noobs' Sorrow
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well it's complicated.. lol it's been well over a year since i did it. good thing i still have the damned thing in storage.
the hardest part was designing the trigger safety. since with this mod you have to use a normal V2 trigger, but there is no place to to drill and install the trigger stop/safety. i used an existing body pin as the axis for the trigger stop. when the selector plate is in the forward position, it pushes the trigger stop down and blocks the trigger from moving. once the selector moves into semi, the trigger stop is completely free to rotate out of the way when the trigger is pulled. this pic is from a year back. here i was deepening the shoulders for the bearing.. Ares made the shoulders so shallow that even without shims, the gears were binding... so lame.. these were taken today. you can see more or less the complete mod. here's what i remember doing from the top of my head. the material around the original lever/shuttle and switch were removed to make room for the V2 switch. i had to drill a hole for and make a pin for the shuttle return spring. it was press fitted into the hole. another hole was drilled to hold the shuttle backstop. i used a thin screw threaded from the outside of the gearbox shell, and on the inside i made a threaded block to lock the screw in place as well as act as the shuttle backstop. the areas around the trigger's base (pin axis) was machined to give the trigger enough room to move freely, and also to make room for the safety/trigger block. a hole was drilled for the self tapping screw that holds the V2 switch down. the back arm of the trigger was trimmed to work with the trigger block. and of course the trigger block it self was made. it's a real shame too.. got the gun working beautifully, had an extreme fire SW Comp installed... my buddy was going to game it for the first time the week i completed the mod.. then when checking the FPS on my chrono POP! something fucked up. i felt really bad, as well as quite made.. all that work was for nothing, and my buddy had a $750 wall hanger. i have been slowly converting it into a gas gun, so it may not end up being a total loss.
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Weapons Technician / Gunsmith Don't look at me, I don't know, lol ¯\(°_o)/¯. |
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