G&p/cyma rpk question

viking9934 · January 15th, 2013, 01:04

Hi

Just acquired a EAC rpk from g&p/Cyma and I have some questions
1- the plastic grip isn't that great and I want something more rugged and comfortable. Can I use any AK Type grip( will it fit the motor)? Any advice?

2- does anyone that have a Cyma rpk have experience play/wobble from the barrel to receiver? I plan to shim it with brass shims? Any other technics?

3- I found that the inner barrel isn't the se lengt as the outer barrel. I know it doesn't really affect the replica but I want it full length. I have read the stiky about the cylinder porting and barrel length. So if I plan to install a 580mm barrel I need to change the cylinder for one that fit in the length of the new barrel?

4-if I need to change the cylinder, and I have the gearbox open , aside shimming it anything else is suggested/necessary ?

5- any one can suggest me from experience a drum mag that fit tight and work properly?

Off_kilter · January 15th, 2013, 01:44

1-yes pretty much any will fit(some have lugs that may or may not need to be removed)

2-that can be fixed fairly easily. tear down the gun till it is just the receiver. you will notice a gap between the front trunnion and the receiver walls. Put a piece of wood against the fake rivets on the sides against the fake rivets(the fake rivets are just pins and only go into the trunnion(not through it))

Insert this into a vice and slowly tighten. You will notice the gaps lessens as you apply more pressure. periodically remove and check to see if the trunnion can still move. Once there is no movement reassemble.

WARNING: not my fault if you tighten it too much and cause catastrophic failure.

4-change the grease to superlube. otherwise these are decent guns(mine had a full cylinder so you shouldnt need to change it)
Check airseal components as always.

5-cyma mag is really freaking tight to start but as you remove it and insert it it becomes easier

viking9934 · January 15th, 2013, 21:35

thanks for the intel

Greased and shimmed ,wobble corrected with your trick and some brass shim from the job and now time to test it.......oh i don't have a battery!

i wonder since it's a support replica i will fire a larger volume of bb's than standard so i need a good amount mAH?right. My question is since my old 9.6v battery is dead i want to buy a lipo that i would use in conjunction with a Gate GDS-4005 Basic FET.
so the question is , should i use a 2200mAh 7.4V 25C GEN ACE(maybe buy 2) or i bet on a larger one like in 11v? The fact is that i don't really know what is safe. i've read i'm safe under 25c but.... 7.4v vs 11?

Off_kilter · January 16th, 2013, 02:42

just go with a 7.4 it still provides quite decent ROF.

ThunderCactus · January 16th, 2013, 08:51

Read up on lipos here
http://airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=99899

viking9934 · January 16th, 2013, 13:56

So
I had read the stiky already...but had skip the 11 volt part. So I understand the voltage and mAh part but the c rating is still bugging me. So I need to aim on a high c rating(25 and up) to match with the load required from the motor(higher peak load on semi auto Than on full...correct?)

So I found my battery a 7.4 v 4000mAh 25c GenAce
Correct me of I'm wrong

ThunderCactus · January 16th, 2013, 14:18

Well if you read it you'd know that its your amperage x C rating to find max constant load

25c x 4A = 100A continuous draw
Typical stock gun draws 4-8A

Higher C ratings also means less internal resistance, meaning *slightly* higher rof
You could get away with a 12C 1200mah battery, but if you can fit a large battery then do it, doesn't hurt to have more gas in the tank
That battery should work fantastic for you!

Kos-Mos · January 16th, 2013, 15:03

Also, if you want to install a 580mm barrel, you will need a bore-up kit, not just a cylinder.

viking9934 · January 16th, 2013, 18:39

yes i have read that past 590mm you should have a bore up kit....but i don't know if i want to go there. i've read some bad comment about those kit. Don't know what to think. basically there like 3 brand that make a bore up kit(systema,guarder and modify)

My question(s) are
1- i've read that full cylinder non ported like the Lonex steel AK cylinder is good for 450 so i should be good?
2- Lonex list a LMG cylinder anyone know it spec and application?

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January 15th, 2013, 01:04	#1
viking9934 Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Longueuil	G&p/cyma rpk question Hi Just acquired a EAC rpk from g&p/Cyma and I have some questions 1- the plastic grip isn't that great and I want something more rugged and comfortable. Can I use any AK Type grip( will it fit the motor)? Any advice? 2- does anyone that have a Cyma rpk have experience play/wobble from the barrel to receiver? I plan to shim it with brass shims? Any other technics? 3- I found that the inner barrel isn't the se lengt as the outer barrel. I know it doesn't really affect the replica but I want it full length. I have read the stiky about the cylinder porting and barrel length. So if I plan to install a 580mm barrel I need to change the cylinder for one that fit in the length of the new barrel? 4-if I need to change the cylinder, and I have the gearbox open , aside shimming it anything else is suggested/necessary ? 5- any one can suggest me from experience a drum mag that fit tight and work properly? __________________ Semper Fidelis

January 15th, 2013, 01:44	#2
Off_kilter Trader rating Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: From antigonish but posted in Edmonton	1-yes pretty much any will fit(some have lugs that may or may not need to be removed) 2-that can be fixed fairly easily. tear down the gun till it is just the receiver. you will notice a gap between the front trunnion and the receiver walls. Put a piece of wood against the fake rivets on the sides against the fake rivets(the fake rivets are just pins and only go into the trunnion(not through it)) Insert this into a vice and slowly tighten. You will notice the gaps lessens as you apply more pressure. periodically remove and check to see if the trunnion can still move. Once there is no movement reassemble. WARNING: not my fault if you tighten it too much and cause catastrophic failure. 4-change the grease to superlube. otherwise these are decent guns(mine had a full cylinder so you shouldnt need to change it) Check airseal components as always. 5-cyma mag is really freaking tight to start but as you remove it and insert it it becomes easier __________________

January 15th, 2013, 21:35	#3
viking9934 Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Longueuil	thanks for the intel Greased and shimmed ,wobble corrected with your trick and some brass shim from the job and now time to test it.......oh i don't have a battery! i wonder since it's a support replica i will fire a larger volume of bb's than standard so i need a good amount mAH?right. My question is since my old 9.6v battery is dead i want to buy a lipo that i would use in conjunction with a Gate GDS-4005 Basic FET. so the question is , should i use a 2200mAh 7.4V 25C GEN ACE(maybe buy 2) or i bet on a larger one like in 11v? The fact is that i don't really know what is safe. i've read i'm safe under 25c but.... 7.4v vs 11? __________________ Semper Fidelis

January 16th, 2013, 02:42	#4
Off_kilter Trader rating Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: From antigonish but posted in Edmonton	just go with a 7.4 it still provides quite decent ROF. __________________

January 16th, 2013, 08:51	#5
ThunderCactus Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture! Trader rating Join Date: Feb 2007	Read up on lipos here http://airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=99899

January 16th, 2013, 13:56	#6
viking9934 Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Longueuil	So I had read the stiky already...but had skip the 11 volt part. So I understand the voltage and mAh part but the c rating is still bugging me. So I need to aim on a high c rating(25 and up) to match with the load required from the motor(higher peak load on semi auto Than on full...correct?) So I found my battery a 7.4 v 4000mAh 25c GenAce Correct me of I'm wrong __________________ Semper Fidelis

January 16th, 2013, 14:18	#7
ThunderCactus Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture! Trader rating Join Date: Feb 2007	Well if you read it you'd know that its your amperage x C rating to find max constant load 25c x 4A = 100A continuous draw Typical stock gun draws 4-8A Higher C ratings also means less internal resistance, meaning slightly higher rof You could get away with a 12C 1200mah battery, but if you can fit a large battery then do it, doesn't hurt to have more gas in the tank That battery should work fantastic for you!

January 16th, 2013, 18:39	#9
viking9934 Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Longueuil	yes i have read that past 590mm you should have a bore up kit....but i don't know if i want to go there. i've read some bad comment about those kit. Don't know what to think. basically there like 3 brand that make a bore up kit(systema,guarder and modify) My question(s) are 1- i've read that full cylinder non ported like the Lonex steel AK cylinder is good for 450 so i should be good? 2- Lonex list a LMG cylinder anyone know it spec and application? __________________ Semper Fidelis Last edited by viking9934; January 16th, 2013 at 19:43..

G&p/cyma rpk question

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