stock g&p m4 first upgrade ideas

generichandle · December 5th, 2012, 23:56

Hey so I have a g&p which hasn't been fielded yet due to fps, looking to swap to a m90 to allow winter time indoor cqb goodness. I want to do an initial upgrade along with the new spring, nothing crazy as I'm running the stock gearbox until it shits the bed.
Planning on throwing in a Prometheus bridge hop up tensioner http://www.airsoftstore.ca/index.php...roducts_id=179 paired with a lonex 50d bucking. http://www.airsoftstore.ca/index.php...products_id=78
And a sorob pad http://www.airsoftstore.ca/index.php...&products_id=7 just wondering if I should up to a 70 or grab a neo aswell,, maybe make the jump to a p.o.m piston head? If absolutely necessary?
Just ideas from a noob needing advice, sound good? Sound bad? Not trying to upgrade the gearbox yet as would rather just throw in a full lonex when the stock g&p eats shit.

Any suggestions or insight greatly appreciated

peacekeeper · December 6th, 2012, 00:11

tightbore barrel and you should be good to go.

MaciekA · December 6th, 2012, 00:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by generichandle

Hey so I have a g&p which hasn't been fielded yet due to fps, looking to swap to a m90 to allow winter time indoor cqb goodness. I want to do an initial upgrade along with the new spring, nothing crazy as I'm running the stock gearbox until it shits the bed.
Planning on throwing in a Prometheus bridge hop up tensioner http://www.airsoftstore.ca/index.php...roducts_id=179 paired with a lonex 50d bucking. http://www.airsoftstore.ca/index.php...products_id=78
And a sorob pad http://www.airsoftstore.ca/index.php...&products_id=7 just wondering if I should up to a 70 or grab a neo aswell,, maybe make the jump to a p.o.m piston head? If absolutely necessary?
Just ideas from a noob needing advice, sound good? Sound bad? Not trying to upgrade the gearbox yet as would rather just throw in a full lonex when the stock g&p eats shit.

Any suggestions or insight greatly appreciated

I wouldn't waste your time on the sorbo pad or the hopup changes or any of the other changes except the spring.

If you're not running 11.1V LiPos and you're playing indoors on semi-auto only, you will not need the sorbo pad. Correcting AoE isn't as urgent when you're not running a high powered setup at a high RoF.

If you're only playing indoors, you will not need any changes to your hopup. The stock G&P stuff is actually perfectly fine.

In other words, you don't really need to change anything except for the spring. With an M90 spring in there, you might also luck out and not have a trademark G&P gear failure for a long time.

Hope that helps

MaciekA · December 6th, 2012, 00:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by peacekeeper

tightbore barrel and you should be good to go.

I disagree. The G&P stock barrel is a tightbore and is actually quite good. OP doesn't really need to spend money on barrels. Even when outdoor play resumes, the stock G&P barrels are fine and benefit more from a bucking+nub replacement than a full barrel swap.

generichandle · December 6th, 2012, 00:31

macieka since I'm planning on playing outdoor come spring, does it really not make sense to do all of that listed at once as opposed to waiting till spring, and then installing the accuracy and integrity upgrades listed?
Additionally I was only planning on a sorob just as a buffer to try and prolong my gears as long as possible? Or do they only effect the piston assembly?

Stealth · December 6th, 2012, 11:18

There are 2 approaches to this. If you're going to want to only open it ONCE and only once, then by all means replace things that you anticipate breaking. On the flip side, personally I recommend replacing things as they break so you get your moneys worth. Why in the world, as a retailer, would I recommend that? Because I've been in the same shoes as you and throwing money at problems doesn't help you learn.

I have to disagree with Maciek on the AoE corrections:
If you're opening up the mechbox, check the AoE and correct as necessary. Hot spring or M90, it should always be corrected either via the sorbo+neo or nylon washers on the piston head. If your AoE is bad, it'll just shorten the lifespan of your piston.

You don't *need* the POM piston head until your stock one breaks. The G&P one is pretty decent.

G&P barrels I find have been pretty bad - inconsistent is the word. It's like they just buy whatever brass tube is for sale that week at the metal mart. Sometimes you get a winner, other times it's horrible. Upgrade the hop-up rubber. From experience, you'll see the most gains from that and it's half the cost of a barrel.

Lastly, grab one of our lipos for some good trigger response indoors. Look at motor upgrades when you're ready as the G&P M120 motor is quite slow to wind up.

Stealth · December 6th, 2012, 11:21

I may have some bad news. We aren't able to get the Prometheus bridge nubs until Jan/Feb due to a supply shortage.

I recommend the PDI W Hold in the meantime.

L473ncy · December 6th, 2012, 11:31

Hey stealth, were those GensAce batteries the ones you were talking about doing testing on? Are they that much better than the nanotechs? Too bad I just bought 4 of them though but that said, having more batteries never really hurt anyone....

generichandle · December 6th, 2012, 12:09

Already running a 7.4 v Lipo, and the trigger response is zippy enough as is, the accuracy is actually pretty Damn stellar stock, so I don't forsee a barrel change unless I extend it and run it inside a silencer, but that's later like when I have a cqb primary aswell, thanks stealth!

lurkingknight · December 6th, 2012, 12:21

I sorbo all my guns that I open up... it's 5 bucks and 5 minutes with the glue and dremel to take the necessary teeth off.

Of course, if you don't have a rotary tool, it sort of makes it difficult to do so quickly, in that case, do what you can.

I'm a big proponent to not fixing something if it isn't broke, so AoE and shimming is really the only thing I would do while you're in there doing a spring swap. Or running it until you feel you have an idea of where to go with it after you know what you have and what you want/need.

If you're running a 7.4 lipo, it shouldn't be too bad on wear, and fixing the aoe now can extend the life of your piston if it isn't a metal tooth one.

G2Sniper · December 6th, 2012, 12:42

[QUOTE=MaciekA;1733242]I disagree. The G&P stock barrel is a tightbore and is actually quite good. OP doesn't really need to spend money on barrels. Even when outdoor play resumes, the stock G&P barrels are fine and benefit more from a bucking+nub replacement than a full barrel swap.[/QUOTE

So your saying G&P 6.08 barrels are good?

Stealth · December 6th, 2012, 16:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by L473ncy

Hey stealth, were those GensAce batteries the ones you were talking about doing testing on? Are they that much better than the nanotechs? Too bad I just bought 4 of them though but that said, having more batteries never really hurt anyone....

Well we did testing head-to-head testing last night and analyzing the data now.

But for now all I can say is that the 11.1v 20C small stick battery is as good, if not better than the Nanotech 11.1v 25C 1300 long stick. Did 39rps @ 400+fps on John's G36c.

More details later.

generichandle · December 6th, 2012, 17:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stealth

Well we did testing head-to-head testing last night and analyzing the data now.

But for now all I can say is that the 11.1v 20C small stick battery is as good, if not better than the Nanotech 11.1v 25C 1300 long stick. Did 39rps @ 400+fps on John's G36c.

More details later.

The reason I'm hesitant to upgrade the motor, or use a 11.1v is I want to prolong gear changing/ purchasing to a mosfet (which my phone tried to autocorrect to midget!)
Until either my trigger connection goes or I'm also putting in a full new gb assembly/ motor. Was only considering those upgrades as they are minimal, and aimed simply at accuracy and slightly prolonging longevity of the stock components.
When that happens ill be throwing in one of your full lonex gearboxes with a fancy omega motor and then a mosfet and larger Lipo, which will all be purchased for you haha so I appreciate the help I'm already getting and see the need for a lot more on the roadto come as a completely new player who has never even been to a game let alone played.
It's been almost 3 weeks that my av has been pending, I keep telling myself;... Any day now...

Trev140_0 · December 6th, 2012, 17:53

As we all talk about the tight bore barrels and have NO proof of them actually working any better/worse than a stock, we are aware they are making WIDE BORE barrels now. Right?

6.23mm inner diameter

http://orga-airsoft.com/products-pag...re-barrel-aeg/

generichandle · December 6th, 2012, 18:14

Wait so a tightbore barrel doesn't increase accuracy? I would have thought having less room to bounce around would naturally increase accuracy. Which is my rationale for getting the bridge tensioner is it looks like it manages to force bb's through a more guided path, resulting in less room for discrepancies in flight dynamics and ultimately equating to better shot to shot consistency.
Or am I completely over analyzing this and actually don't understand at all?
Sigh.. I wish I had friends who played airsoft.

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December 5th, 2012, 23:56	#1
generichandle Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Toronto	stock g&p m4 first upgrade ideas Hey so I have a g&p which hasn't been fielded yet due to fps, looking to swap to a m90 to allow winter time indoor cqb goodness. I want to do an initial upgrade along with the new spring, nothing crazy as I'm running the stock gearbox until it shits the bed. Planning on throwing in a Prometheus bridge hop up tensioner http://www.airsoftstore.ca/index.php...roducts_id=179 paired with a lonex 50d bucking. http://www.airsoftstore.ca/index.php...products_id=78 And a sorob pad http://www.airsoftstore.ca/index.php...&products_id=7 just wondering if I should up to a 70 or grab a neo aswell,, maybe make the jump to a p.o.m piston head? If absolutely necessary? Just ideas from a noob needing advice, sound good? Sound bad? Not trying to upgrade the gearbox yet as would rather just throw in a full lonex when the stock g&p eats shit. Any suggestions or insight greatly appreciated

December 6th, 2012, 00:31	#5
generichandle Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Toronto	macieka since I'm planning on playing outdoor come spring, does it really not make sense to do all of that listed at once as opposed to waiting till spring, and then installing the accuracy and integrity upgrades listed? Additionally I was only planning on a sorob just as a buffer to try and prolong my gears as long as possible? Or do they only effect the piston assembly? Last edited by generichandle; December 6th, 2012 at 00:39..

December 6th, 2012, 11:18	#6
Stealth Mr. Silencer Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Toronto	There are 2 approaches to this. If you're going to want to only open it ONCE and only once, then by all means replace things that you anticipate breaking. On the flip side, personally I recommend replacing things as they break so you get your moneys worth. Why in the world, as a retailer, would I recommend that? Because I've been in the same shoes as you and throwing money at problems doesn't help you learn. I have to disagree with Maciek on the AoE corrections: If you're opening up the mechbox, check the AoE and correct as necessary. Hot spring or M90, it should always be corrected either via the sorbo+neo or nylon washers on the piston head. If your AoE is bad, it'll just shorten the lifespan of your piston. You don't need the POM piston head until your stock one breaks. The G&P one is pretty decent. G&P barrels I find have been pretty bad - inconsistent is the word. It's like they just buy whatever brass tube is for sale that week at the metal mart. Sometimes you get a winner, other times it's horrible. Upgrade the hop-up rubber. From experience, you'll see the most gains from that and it's half the cost of a barrel. Lastly, grab one of our lipos for some good trigger response indoors. Look at motor upgrades when you're ready as the G&P M120 motor is quite slow to wind up. Last edited by Stealth; December 6th, 2012 at 11:23..

December 6th, 2012, 00:11	#2
peacekeeper formerly bazza Trader rating Join Date: May 2004 Location: Calgary alberta	tightbore barrel and you should be good to go.

December 6th, 2012, 11:21	#7
Stealth Mr. Silencer Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Toronto	I may have some bad news. We aren't able to get the Prometheus bridge nubs until Jan/Feb due to a supply shortage. I recommend the PDI W Hold in the meantime.

December 6th, 2012, 11:31	#8
L473ncy Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: 11-30-24-1W5	Hey stealth, were those GensAce batteries the ones you were talking about doing testing on? Are they that much better than the nanotechs? Too bad I just bought 4 of them though but that said, having more batteries never really hurt anyone.... __________________ ಠ_ಠLess QQ more Pew Pew READY TO >> RACE

December 6th, 2012, 12:09	#9
generichandle Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Toronto	Already running a 7.4 v Lipo, and the trigger response is zippy enough as is, the accuracy is actually pretty Damn stellar stock, so I don't forsee a barrel change unless I extend it and run it inside a silencer, but that's later like when I have a cqb primary aswell, thanks stealth!

December 6th, 2012, 12:21	#10
lurkingknight "bb bukakke" KING! Trader rating Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Ottawa	I sorbo all my guns that I open up... it's 5 bucks and 5 minutes with the glue and dremel to take the necessary teeth off. Of course, if you don't have a rotary tool, it sort of makes it difficult to do so quickly, in that case, do what you can. I'm a big proponent to not fixing something if it isn't broke, so AoE and shimming is really the only thing I would do while you're in there doing a spring swap. Or running it until you feel you have an idea of where to go with it after you know what you have and what you want/need. If you're running a 7.4 lipo, it shouldn't be too bad on wear, and fixing the aoe now can extend the life of your piston if it isn't a metal tooth one. Last edited by lurkingknight; December 6th, 2012 at 12:24..

December 6th, 2012, 12:42	#11
G2Sniper Trader rating Join Date: Jun 2010	[QUOTE=MaciekA;1733242]I disagree. The G&P stock barrel is a tightbore and is actually quite good. OP doesn't really need to spend money on barrels. Even when outdoor play resumes, the stock G&P barrels are fine and benefit more from a bucking+nub replacement than a full barrel swap.[/QUOTE So your saying G&P 6.08 barrels are good?

December 6th, 2012, 17:53	#14
Trev140_0 raging hedrosexual Trader rating Join Date: Sep 2011	As we all talk about the tight bore barrels and have NO proof of them actually working any better/worse than a stock, we are aware they are making WIDE BORE barrels now. Right? 6.23mm inner diameter http://orga-airsoft.com/products-pag...re-barrel-aeg/ __________________ www.Hill437.com *"....Your life is ending one minute at a time..."*

December 6th, 2012, 18:14	#15
generichandle Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Toronto	Wait so a tightbore barrel doesn't increase accuracy? I would have thought having less room to bounce around would naturally increase accuracy. Which is my rationale for getting the bridge tensioner is it looks like it manages to force bb's through a more guided path, resulting in less room for discrepancies in flight dynamics and ultimately equating to better shot to shot consistency. Or am I completely over analyzing this and actually don't understand at all? Sigh.. I wish I had friends who played airsoft.

stock g&p m4 first upgrade ideas

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