WE M4A1 CQB-R Which mods???

[falcon68]

Alright gang, an FNG here and my first post is....

I just received my first Airsoft this week (just decided to get into the sport). It's a WE M4A1 CQB-R. I've only been shooting targets so far but I love the thing! The question I put forth to you guys is what mods should I perform on that AR? Specifically, are there any recommended mods/upgrades that will render it more accurate and relieble?

[L473ncy]

None.

There's no point in needlessly upgrading for the sake of upgrading. Only do so once parts break or whatever. Upgrade the player, not the gun.

Second is it the AEG of GBBR version? If the former then hop up bucking and barrel are first two relatively easy/safe mods.

[falcon68]

Sorry...forgot to specify...it's a GBBR.

Thanks for your feed back. Another question: BB weight. I've been reading that heavier BBs perform better in this type of gun. Should I go for .25 / .28 / .30 ?

[Curo]

depends and you should invest in an NPAS for it's gameable.

[falcon68]

Gotcha...NPAS to play...that is definetely on the shopping cart list.

[L473ncy]

I say .28's but it's up to you to experiment, some play with .30 but I feel it's a bit too slow for me. .28 is a good intermediate beween the speed/relative accuracy of .25's and the relatively lower speed/higher accuracy of the .30.

So if it's GBBR then just get NPAS first but when parts tart to break from wear/tear or whatever then upgrade to RA-Tech parts (or whatever the cool kids are using these days, I don't really keep up with GBBR's too much TBH).

[falcon68]

Cool...Looks like I'll stick to my original plan and order a bag of each and try them out.

[Curo]

Incase you wonder what an NPAS does, it alters the gas pressure behind the BB to control your FPS.

[Drake]

I have a few WE M4s.

As others have stated, all you need to get going is an NPAS. If you have noticeable wobble between your upper and lower you can also get the RA-Tech "magic pin" which replaces your front body pin.

Eventually you may find thing you want to replace but you should use the gun first and figure it out for yourself. Just haphazardly doing mods will often create problems rather than fix any problem you didn't even have to begin with.

As for BBs, I recommend Madbull Match .25g, which have no/very few small air bubbles (the Madbull Precisions and most other BBs have larger and often uncentered air bubbles). The Match .25g will give you similar performance to other popular brands' .28s.

With the stock inner barrel you won't see any improvement in accuracy with heavier BBs: the only time you'd want to go heavier is outdoors if you need to combat wind and foliage.

Another cheap upgrade that does good is an improved hop rubber and/or spacer. This is a bit more esoteric and you'll find different people swear by different products/combinations.

[falcon68]

Originally Posted by Curo

Incase you wonder what an NPAS does, it alters the gas pressure behind the BB to control your FPS.

Thanks...I did wonder about it...Google'd it right after I got the message.

[falcon68]

Originally Posted by Drake

I have a few WE M4s.

As others have stated, all you need to get going is an NPAS. If you have noticeable wobble between your upper and lower you can also get the RA-Tech "magic pin" which replaces your front body pin.

Eventually you may find thing you want to replace but you should use the gun first and figure it out for yourself. Just haphazardly doing mods will often create problems rather than fix any problem you didn't even have to begin with.

As for BBs, I recommend Madbull Match .25g, which have no/very few small air bubbles (the Madbull Precisions and most other BBs have larger and often uncentered air bubbles). The Match .25g will give you similar performance to other popular brands' .28s.

With the stock inner barrel you won't see any improvement in accuracy with heavier BBs: the only time you'd want to go heavier is outdoors if you need to combat wind and foliage.

Another cheap upgrade that does good is an improved hop rubber and/or spacer. This is a bit more esoteric and you'll find different people swear by different products/combinations.

My copy show zero wobble between the receivers. I'm very impressed with the quality of this gun.

As for the BBs, I'll try your suggested brand/weight. I'd rather start with what someone recommends (for a similar gun) instead of wasting money on trial and error...that leaves more money to accessorize the little beast!

As a FNG, I appreciate all the feedback I can get.!

[T@NK]

Wobble between upper and lower is normal, even the real steel does, yours is just too new and not about time, when it does happend just FYI there is nothing to worry about.

[MaybeStopCalling]

If you ever replace the trigger parts, go for CWI parts instead of RaTech... I had a rather dangerous issue where the gun would go on auto when firing semi with the RaTech parts. Also, whenever you can, buy real steel parts. They're often cheaper, better quality, and drop in compatable... for example a DPMS anodized Forward assist costs $12.99, where a TSC Airsoft Forward Assit costs $25.99.

[falcon68]

Originally Posted by T@NK

Wobble between upper and lower is normal, even the real steel does, yours is just too new and not about time, when it does happend just FYI there is nothing to worry about.

Good to know!

[falcon68]

Originally Posted by Green Synergy

If you ever replace the trigger parts, go for CWI parts instead of RaTech... I had a rather dangerous issue where the gun would go on auto when firing semi with the RaTech parts. Also, whenever you can, buy real steel parts. They're often cheaper, better quality, and drop in compatable... for example a DPMS anodized Forward assist costs $12.99, where a TSC Airsoft Forward Assit costs $25.99.

Noted for the CWI vs RaTech parts! The other part of your reply surprised me though. Real steel parts in an airsoft...didn't know that was possible. How many parts can be swapped in like that? I knew that several real steel external components could be used but was unaware that it was possible with some of the internal ones.