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Gun Over Cycles

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Old August 5th, 2012, 11:42   #1
suzenonest
 
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Gun Over Cycles

So i recently picked up a G&G GR16 R4 as a backup gun. I decided to clean out and regrease the mechbox, as I do with all my guns. This is my third V2 mechbox gun I own so I'm quite familiar with them.

So i opened it up, added a rubber spacer to the cylinmder head to correct AoE, shaved the first piston tooth, regreased everything with some silicone oil and put back together.

When I shoot in semi, it completes the cycle, but then continues into another partial cycle. The gears still sound like they spin abit, which I know they do because during that partial cycle, the loading nozzle nozzle moves forward.

On a side note, I also stripped one of the allen key screws on the mechbox, and one of the pistol grip screws broke... cheap metal

Im assumiung Ill have to drill these out, re tap the holes and find different screws?
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Old August 5th, 2012, 12:12   #2
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If you're lucky enought thereis sometimes 4 holes for the pistol grip, so you might just have to switch holes. For the over cycling, had a similar issue when I changed to a JG M-93 motor, that motor was really powerful and it would be able to overcycle the gearbox... Solved the issue with an ASCU mosfet at that time...
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Old August 5th, 2012, 12:33   #3
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I havent changed motor or battery though. Could it be part of the the whole trigger/ electrical system?

I didn't touch any of that and it looked the same when it went back together iirc, but could be a possibility
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Old August 5th, 2012, 13:13   #4
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I have that problem and it turned out my anti reverse latch was broken
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Old August 5th, 2012, 13:14   #5
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Hmm I don't think mines broken, I looked at it but maybe I installed wrong

When I fire in semi, the loading nozzle moves back and forth twice, stopping 1/4 back
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Old August 5th, 2012, 15:07   #6
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If the anti-reversal latch would be broken and not working the piston would be slammed back at the zero position, the anti-reversal not holding the gears in place... It could be due to the trigger unit however, if the "slider" gets held in forward position more than it should it might be due to that too... In either ways, a MOSFET would probably solve your problem easily, if you plan of having it for a long time it's definitely worth it.

At this time there is some interesting threads about MOSFET around the forum, you should check it out if you want to go that way.
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Old August 5th, 2012, 15:45   #7
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If the anti-reversal latch is broken, the gears would make a REALLY distinguishable and weird noise.
If you have cycle overlap, it's totally normal for most AEG's, and the easiest way to solve it is to buy a motor with stronger magnets. That will make the cycling stop faster in semi.
Cycle overlap can't be caused by the trigger unit, because the trigger unit is disabled by the cutoff lever in semi auto fire.

Getting an SW-COMP is total overkill for such a simple problem
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Old August 5th, 2012, 16:31   #8
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Is the cutoff lever right below the sector gear?
I noticed my tappet plate seems kinda loose, and since it relates directly to the trigger system I might start there. I gotta figure out how to get this one stripped allen screw out first tho...
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Old August 5th, 2012, 16:55   #9
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thunder when my anti reverse latch went it sounded normal. The only reason I found out it was broken is it would shoot 2 bbs every shot and when I started trouble shooting found out my anti reverse latch broke on one side.
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Old August 5th, 2012, 20:33   #10
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That's not how the anti reversal latch works lol
What you just stated is that your car drives faster because your parking brake is broken.
It doesn't affect when your AEG stops shooting, it's SOLE purpose in the mechbox is to prevent the gears from reversing.
The tappet plate has nothing to do with cycle overlap either

Easy way to determine what your problem is, fire semi auto in quick succession. If the anti-reversal is broken, you'll strip the piston. If it's cycle overlap, it won't hurt the mechbox.
Easiest way to stop cycle overlap is with a motor with stronger magnets

Most likely you either had tight shimming and now you don't, greasing the gears made them spin more freely, or the motor height was too high to begin with.

Last edited by ThunderCactus; August 5th, 2012 at 20:36..
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Old August 5th, 2012, 21:17   #11
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What was happening with mine was overspin and then reversing to cause the double feed and I know why the latch failed I did not shim the latch to match the gear so it sideloaded and broke
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Old August 6th, 2012, 01:39   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderCactus View Post
Easiest way to stop cycle overlap is with a motor with stronger magnets

Most likely you either had tight shimming and now you don't, greasing the gears made them spin more freely, or the motor height was too high to begin with.
So your sayin by simply regreasing the gears with a better grease and better shimming could cause this problem?
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Old August 6th, 2012, 15:24   #13
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Assuming your gears were poorly shimmed before, then yes.
Buy a motor with neo magnets, problem solved.

And sorry ozzy, I though you meant it was firing two semi auto shots, seeing as the context here is cycle overlap.
cycle overlap is when your gun completes another partial forward cycle after the piston has been released. It's caused by too much momentum or not enough resistance in the system. Either having a weak-magnet motor, or very heavy gears, or simply by having a 9.6v or large battery.
Your problem was the cycle reversing after you had fired a shot, totally different problem.

Last edited by ThunderCactus; August 6th, 2012 at 15:30..
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Old August 7th, 2012, 19:19   #14
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So I reshimmed the gearbox, added a few to tighten things up a little. There was also a small spring above the trigger contacts that I fixed as it wasn't seated properly.

The gun still seems to me like it is cycling funny, but when I put the upper back on and tried shooting, it functioned just fine lol

I'll leave it like that for now
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Old August 7th, 2012, 21:56   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suzenonest View Post
So I reshimmed the gearbox, added a few to tighten things up a little. There was also a small spring above the trigger contacts that I fixed as it wasn't seated properly.

The gun still seems to me like it is cycling funny, but when I put the upper back on and tried shooting, it functioned just fine lol

I'll leave it like that for now
It should NOT be tigh...

You are basically killing the gears, motor and bushings, possibly wires and trigger too.

I also think that it was the ARL that was not set properly. It should push against the bevel gear, not away.
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