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May 2nd, 2012, 19:40 | #1 |
Complete MechBox Changeout. Issues
Im new to the idea of tinkering with my gun I have a CA M15SPR and removed the old CA Gearbox. I bought a new G&P 8mm Complete Gearbox for it and threw it in there. Took the old CA Gearbox apart to get an idea for the looks of the internals, put it back together and had success with turning the gearbox over with the old motor. With the new gearbox I bought a M120 GP Motor for it in which it is recommended and installed that. As of right now I had everything in place for a test run and with which I believe was a good battery, when pulling the trigger heard a single click. Nothing loud but just one quiet click when I pulled the trigger. Figured I might have the wires crossed and the anti reversal latch might just be catching the gears but with the wires the other way it didnt do anything. Checked the motor and it spins while not in the gearbox. As of right now one of the wires has lost its connector and im waiting on a soldering gun, but thinking about this clicking problem. No turn over, no piston movement, or spring movement. Just a click. Any ideas?
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May 2nd, 2012, 19:44 | #2 |
You probably need a more powerful battery. What was the previous spring you were using (the new one is an M120 correct?) and what battery are you using?
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May 2nd, 2012, 19:51 | #3 |
Drop-in mechboxes are never ever actually a matter of a simple drop-in... but there is hope. There is a whole world of stuff you need to work through to get this going "nicely", however it looks like you've gotten a good start by testing the motor and electrical system. It is a good sign that the motor moves when you have it out separately.
Note that the G&P M120 motor is a fairly weak motor, so it's entirely possible your battery simply doesn't have enough juice to move it, especially if the pinion/bevel mesh isn't good yet. Assemble the mechbox with ONLY the pistol grip attached to it so that you can do adjustments and test quickly without having to re-assemble the entire gun over and over. Make sure to pull back the selector plate to have it in full-auto during testing. Now then, things to try: 1) Adjust motor height up and down and see if the clicking goes away 2) Rewire the gun for better connectors like Deans and/or try a more powerful battery 3) If you're willing to disassemble the G&P mechbox, go ahead and do so. Then remove the ARL + the cylinder/spring/piston, re-assemble the mechbox without them and see if the motor can turn the gears without those things (once again, do this with only the motor grip attached, it'll make debugging go much quicker). For idea #3, that's a good time to adjust motor height and get an optimal sound. The less screeching, the better, but note that having the motor drive the gears with no load will always sound a little bit crazy since it is able to turn at full speed without any load. Once you have this all working and the gun can fire, you should then learn how to shim properly and do that next. G&P drop-in mechboxes are shimmed "okay", but you can do a better job just by following some tutorials and asking questions here. Good luck... Let us know how it goes.
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May 2nd, 2012, 19:52 | #4 |
By the way, I'll add that if the old motor was able to turn the gearbox over, it's actually probably a better (higher torque) motor than the G&P M120, which is easily one of the lowest-torque motors I've ever tried.
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"Mah check" Now you know |
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May 2nd, 2012, 20:52 | #5 |
Only tried the old motor with the old gearbox. Just the pistol grip installed is a good idea. ive been doing the same thing pretty much just had the lower on it is all. My battery is a 10.8v 5000mah so i dont think its the problem although it could be, I think its a piece of crap so il fully charge but before next run and I might try to throw in the old motor and see what that does. I already have deans connectors on it and when i was trying it i had it in semi so il try full auto. Thx for the help il let you know what happens.
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May 2nd, 2012, 21:01 | #6 | |
Quote:
My bet is that the motor is sitting too high in the grip, and if you lower it a little bit (I like to go by quarter turns of the motor height adjustment screw and fire a semi shot between each turn) at some point it'll suddenly start turning. It'll probably screech at first since it'll still be too high, but low enough to move the bevel gear.. After that, lower a little more until it sounds "nice" (hard to qualify... but not screechy).
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"Mah check" Now you know |
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May 2nd, 2012, 21:02 | #7 |
Fainting Goat, Dictator of Quinte West
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Did you try it on full auto or semi?
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May 3rd, 2012, 19:49 | #8 |
tried it on semi. Ok so the update is... First time I tried it I had the motor set screw completely out because i thought that might be the problem. Tuning motor didnt work either. Im guessing my battery at 10.8 Volts is good. It could have been a battery problem because I just threw my old CA motor in to try it out and it didnt make a sound. Charging Battery and hoping It will do something. If it works il throw the G&P in and see if it works then. You think that if I throw it on full auto and try it a couple times that it might work its way loose?
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May 3rd, 2012, 20:31 | #9 |
Fainting Goat, Dictator of Quinte West
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Recently I had my gearbox apart for a broken piston head , when i put it back in i tried it on semi and got just a click when i pulled the trigger, i didn't try it on full auto.. well there is a well known glitch that happens ( explanation in gun doctor stickies) sometimes to V2 's on semi, A smart member told me to try it on full auto then semi and he was right.
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May 4th, 2012, 22:27 | #10 |
UPDATE: Full Battery Charge.... Tried it on full mech box. Nothing happened. Opened it up and removed all but the gears and trigger assembly. And the motor turned it. put it all back together and nothing happens but the wires are drawing some serious amps because the force away from each other magnetically.
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