DIY HUTU for CA P90 Proline (Hop Up Tracer Unit) in Toronto

[sabinn]

I'm looking for an experienced modder to install a hutu in my p90. I'll purchase the parts and pay you for your expertise.

I'm in Toronto.

[PrIeSt]

Mail it to Winnipeg I can do a custom one. Done three here

[Dynamo]

where abouts in Toronto are you? i can do the mod easy. i have a couple of guns done already and the HUTU is wired directly to the motor wires. there's no turning the unit on or off, when the motor gets power, so does the LEDs.

i have a bag of 3000mcd UV LEDs, and a milling machine. i can custom make a housing that fits over the hopup unit, and Lexan windows on the sides of the hopup housing so there is no interference with the feed tube.

here's the PTS ACR i worked on for my friend. it was done this way as the hopup housing of the ACR isn't very long. the CA P90 hopup housing is long enough were i can install the mod directly on it.




here's the mod done on my own VFC HK416 with a ProWin split gearbox.

[PrIeSt]

I tried my p90 with it off the motor.
Never got enough light on single shot and the bb's never glowed enough. worked great on full auto.
Howd you over come that issue?

Same would happen with the acr no? your top two bb's would get no light?

EDIT:
Sorry not trying to question your method. Just curious as to how you did it, as It did not work properly for me. Maybe I need brighter UV led's

I must say. Your wiring/soldering is amazing!

[Kos-Mos]

Originally Posted by takagari

I tried my p90 with it off the motor.
Never got enough light on single shot and the bb's never glowed enough. worked great on full auto.
Howd you over come that issue?

Same would happen with the acr no? your top two bb's would get no light?

EDIT:
Sorry not trying to question your method. Just curious as to how you did it, as It did not work properly for me. Maybe I need brighter UV led's

I must say. Your wiring/soldering is amazing!

Seems like a always on kind of deal...

UV light is barely visible to the human eye anyways, so if you can spot that glowing dark blue barrel tip from further than 10 ft., you got bionic eyes.

[Dynamo]

Originally Posted by Kos-Mos

Seems like a always on kind of deal...

UV light is barely visible to the human eye anyways, so if you can spot that glowing dark blue barrel tip from further than 10 ft., you got bionic eyes.

the problem with having the LEDs always on is overheating. if you want to keep the heat buildup down, the LEDs need to run on lower voltage and therefore lower brightness. with them connected directly to the motor wires, they only light up then the trigger is pulled, and will only heat up if you do a 200 round mag dump. so having them connected this way i can run them closer to their max voltage input and brightness output with less risk of burning them out.

for me this works best.

as for the glowing lagging on semi, thats just how it is. unless you use a transparent barrel and light them up that way. personally, i don't really mind the lag. i think it's a useful advantage when you want to take a more stealthy shot, especially if your gun is as quiet as mine is with a silencer, and your target is within 20 feet. nothing like taking pot shots at someone who is close enough to make out their face, and watch the look on their face as they are trying to figure out where the fire is coming from. if im going to open up on someone's location then yea, i want my tracers highly visible to my team mates.

[coach]

Wire it up with a micro momentary switch or you could use a flashlight pressure switch to your off hand. It would mean either installing a jack on the p90 or having a wire hang out somewhere though

[Dynamo]

Originally Posted by coachster

Wire it up with a micro momentary switch or you could use a flashlight pressure switch to your off hand. It would mean either installing a jack on the p90 or having a wire hang out somewhere though

there are many ways to go about it, i personally like to keep things as compact and integrated as possible. with the P90 hopup, i dont think there will be any delay on lighting the BBs as there is enough room on the hop unit to install the LEDs ahead of the loading nozzle.

whether or not there is a delay on the tracers being lit, all depends on how much room you got to work with. the only reason why the first shot or two don't light up, is not because the LEDs are not on when they are being loaded, it's due to the location of the LEDs relative to the loading nozzle. take the ACR and my HK416 as an example. there is no room on the hopup housing to install the 5mm LEDs, so they were mounted on the vertical feed tube instead. so instead of lighting the BB thats next to be loaded and shot it lights up the second in line. so it doesn't matter how you wire up the LED, it's all about location.

[Kos-Mos]

Originally Posted by Dynamo

the problem with having the LEDs always on is overheating. if you want to keep the heat buildup down, the LEDs need to run on lower voltage and therefore lower brightness. with them connected directly to the motor wires, they only light up then the trigger is pulled, and will only heat up if you do a 200 round mag dump. so having them connected this way i can run them closer to their max voltage input and brightness output with less risk of burning them out.

for me this works best.

as for the glowing lagging on semi, thats just how it is. unless you use a transparent barrel and light them up that way. personally, i don't really mind the lag. i think it's a useful advantage when you want to take a more stealthy shot, especially if your gun is as quiet as mine is with a silencer, and your target is within 20 feet. nothing like taking pot shots at someone who is close enough to make out their face, and watch the look on their face as they are trying to figure out where the fire is coming from. if im going to open up on someone's location then yea, i want my tracers highly visible to my team mates.

If you run a LED directly on the motor poles, I can assure you that it won't last a mag. In parallel, the voltage will kill it. In serial, the current will kill it.

Typical LEDs run off 1.2-1.5v Some high power ones have dual-loop and run off 3.0v (CREE LEDs for example).

Your AEG runs from 7.4 to 12v... that is 10 times enough to fry the LED in an instant.

If you know your way around electronics, you won't have an issue. You just need a basic 1/4W resistor to add it in series. It won't use anymore power than the regular LED... which is about 10mA... It won't heat-up and won't be damaged over time.

[Dynamo]

im using 2x 3.4v 30mA 5mm LEDs with a 120ohm .25watt resistor. i should be using a 150ohm one, but being that the LEDs are not constantly on they don't overheat. also using them on guns with a mosfet which controls the power output to the motor. so far, i have had no issues.

[PrIeSt]

The p90 has no lag. So you are lighting the glowing round directly.
That being said. Running a p90 off the motor leaves the first round dark. And will not light any on semi. The lights not there long enough.

A pressure plate would be a smart idea. It would involve more wire.

I run my LEDs with a constant current circuit. Allowing them to use 6-12 volts and give me a constant.

The 3000mcd uv 5mm LEDs I use can take 3.2-4vdc and the current limiter I use keeps them at 4 solid.

As for burning out. I've used leds In a lot of things. At full voltage. And never had a burn out.

They are rated at 100,000hrs. Although I think I'll run my act off the feed tube. The a&k has a clear upper hopup chamber. So you could hit the first led. The PTS is all metal. Makes its a bitch.

[sabinn]

my P90 uses 11.1 lipos and I almost always use semi fire, only occasionally full auto. Is that going to be an issue?

[PrIeSt]

If he wires it off your motor. Yes. You'll never see them glow. But he should be able to direct wire for you

[Grimreaper 295]

Originally Posted by Dynamo

where abouts in Toronto are you? i can do the mod easy. i have a couple of guns done already and the HUTU is wired directly to the motor wires. there's no turning the unit on or off, when the motor gets power, so does the LEDs.

i have a bag of 3000mcd UV LEDs, and a milling machine. i can custom make a housing that fits over the hopup unit, and Lexan windows on the sides of the hopup housing so there is no interference with the feed tube.

here's the PTS ACR i worked on for my friend. it was done this way as the hopup housing of the ACR isn't very long. the CA P90 hopup housing is long enough were i can install the mod directly on it.

here's the mod done on my own VFC HK416 with a ProWin split gearbox.

Nice work on that fabrication! I'll keep you in mind as I have a P90 that may need your attention. Start figuring you price for doing the work and install and I'll hitch up with you.

Congrats!

[Dynamo]

Originally Posted by takagari

If he wires it off your motor. Yes. You'll never see them glow. But he should be able to direct wire for you

with the P90 it should lite up fine on semi even wired to the motor. the BB being loaded and fired will be exposed to the UV LEDs since the LEDs will be positioned in the hop housing just before the opening to the hopup bucking.
the liting lag only applies to LEDs mounted on the feed tube below the loading nozzle.