500 fps upgrade suggestions?

[Drake]

Wow, everyone's turning into PTW whores (no offense, but you are :P )

@OP:

First off, I love KA but that gearbox won't do; it's made of zinc alloy. I don't care how reinforced it is or how big the bushings are, zinc alloy is shitty. The weak point on the v2 box isn't the bushings anyway, it's the front of the box (in front of the cylinder).

If I had to do this, I'd go to a complete Guarder mechbox like this:

http://www.intrudershop.com/show_pro...idproduct=1064


More expensive, but made of steel and designed to work with Guarder's higher end springs. Add one of them (the Guarder SP160 will allegedly take you to 500-520fps) and you pretty much have your mechbox.

One thing I'd add since you're using a MOSFET and [hopefully] a larger battery is a sector clip, to insure proper feeding (specially if you plan on running semi a lot). And switch out all your connectors for Deans.

I'd maybe throw in the extra $3.50 and swap out the stock pinion gear on th emotor for the heavy duty hardened one, too.

And +1 LUNIT's comment about 6.03 over 6.01.


EDIT: btw, I've never built a 500+ FPS mechbox; I'm just saying if I had to, based on my experience this is how I'd attempt it. It may blow up in your face for all I know, mmmmkay?

[mcguyver]

If you plan on using semi-auto, abandon the Ver 2 and 3 gearbox groups with a 500 fps gun. You will spend alot of money on parts ($500 if you are lucky) and will continue to spend as the gun breaks down every few games (or less depending on your skills during assembly).

Ver 2 is simply not strong enough, Ver 3 has an inherent flaw that renders semi-auto inoperable some of the time.

If you think a PTW is too much money, build your gun, run it for a season and let us know how much you spent. I can guarrantee you it will be close, and you will have alot of work and hassle to keep your gun running. The fact that you are even asking about parts means you haven't done this before. Most PTW owners have and refuse to be mastered by a $2000 upgraded gun.

Spend it now, or spend it later, but if you upgrade your gun, you will spend it. It's as simple as that.

[Greylocks]

This is a case where having a completed profile (location) may be a good thing because you are pushing a lot of laws.
There are places where you CANT bring what is considered a replica. 500fps is just too much to make monetary sense (upgrades will cost a fortune).
If you want to target shoot, airsoft is not the right platform. If you want to game with that thing... I dont know of anyplace where it would be allowed (or considered safe).

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by ROF_Madman

I am currently brainstorming a list of parts to upgrade my G&G M16 to handle a 500 fps set-up. I am doing this to turn my gun into a DMR (hopefully). So far this is what is on my list: (please add or suggest anything that you think would make a difference)

-King Arms 8mm reinforced gearbox
-obviously bushings and shims
-6.01 dees tightbore barrel
-systema magnum motor
-Prometheus triple torque gears
-Prometheus max torque piston(should I get half tooth or full)
-Custom MOSFET unit(I will only be using semi auto)
-I already have my hop-up taken care of and all external parts.

There are two types of Prometheus HARD pistons: Full tooth and half-tooth.
You only need to get the half-tooth piston if you're getting the max torque gear set, which you aren't, according to that list.
IMHO, you SHOULD get the max torque gear set instead of the triple torque gears if you want to support a spring that heavy.

I'd also recommend a silent head set to help take a lot of the impact off your gearbox, as well as an aftermarket spring guide.

Or, you may want to consider getting a Pro-Win gearbox as it's much stronger and should help maintain a better air seal at velocities that high.

One last thing you should add to that list is an extra pair of hands attached to huge body-building iron-pumping arms, because you're going to have one hell of a time installing a 500fps spring... yes, I've tried and I now have a hole in my wall, thanks to the spring slipping free of my grip and embedding the spring guide in the opposing wall.

[Daes]

Jeez, get a complete mechbox. Cheaper and already fit together. Drop it in and you are good to go...


http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol...l?prodID=21323


BUT, I completely agree with the PTW plugging. Having spent the equivalent getting an armalite up to handling 500fps, it was a complete waste of time and money. The PTW I picked up was 10x the gun, in both trigger response and reliability. In the end, don't regret it, save up and get the best from the start. Your pocket book will thank you (ha ha ha, maybe)...

-Daes

[Endymion]

Originally Posted by mcguyver

Ver 2 is simply not strong enough, Ver 3 has an inherent flaw that renders semi-auto inoperable some of the time.

What's this flaw in the V3 design?

[Jayhad]

I had built a gun shooting 420+ last year and spent a bundle doing it, I cried when the PTWs that were shooting the same FPS were consistantly shooting farther and with more range, I sold that gun for a fraction of what I spent on it which was 90% the cost of a PTW.... I don't have a PTW YET but I will before next season.

OP I have a question for you...... WHY? most experienced airsofters will tell you the sweet spot is 350-380fps anything else can get wonky and unreliable

If you are really set on doing this and don't want a PTW go with a pro-win. A couple of guys on my team use them and the way the mechbox is designed it has way better seals in it so you gain fps with out needing a bigger spring

[LUTNIT]

Originally Posted by Endymion

What's this flaw in the V3 design?

Its far more prone to jamming the piston on semi, need to switch to auto and fire a burst to fix it, then switch back to semi to continue firing semi. Every ver.3 gun I've owned does this, ver.2's do it to some extent but not as much. The only two guns I have ever used that never jam on semi are my PTW and my TM M14.

Originally Posted by LUTNIT

Its far more prone to jamming the piston on semi, need to switch to auto and fire a burst to fix it, then switch back to semi to continue firing semi. Every ver.3 gun I've owned does this, ver.2's do it to some extent but not as much. The only two guns I have ever used that never jam on semi are my PTW and my TM M14.

Does a MOSFET with active brakeing solve that?

[Endymion]

Originally Posted by LUTNIT

Its far more prone to jamming the piston on semi, need to switch to auto and fire a burst to fix it, then switch back to semi to continue firing semi. Every ver.3 gun I've owned does this, ver.2's do it to some extent but not as much. The only two guns I have ever used that never jam on semi are my PTW and my TM M14.

Is this a function of the trigger and cutoff switches? Other than layout that's the only major design difference that I can think of, unless I'm missing something. Assuming this is so, would full complete trigger pulls prevent this issue from occurring? Going further, would the use of MOSFETs help to alleviate this issue?

[EDIT] Darn, pawscal beat me to the post.

[LUTNIT]

Dunno, not a gun doc, this is just what I've noticed from using different AEG's. I've tried every way from Sunday to jam my M14 with the piston part way back and I just can't do it, yet my old CA36 was pretty much useless on semi because it would always seize and would need a full auto burst to free it up.

[Styrak]

Originally Posted by LUTNIT

Its far more prone to jamming the piston on semi, need to switch to auto and fire a burst to fix it, then switch back to semi to continue firing semi. Every ver.3 gun I've owned does this, ver.2's do it to some extent but not as much. The only two guns I have ever used that never jam on semi are my PTW and my TM M14.

Hmm. My AUG has never jammed on semi.

[TokyoSeven]

Originally Posted by LUTNIT

Dunno, not a gun doc, this is just what I've noticed from using different AEG's. I've tried every way from Sunday to jam my M14 with the piston part way back and I just can't do it, yet my old CA36 was pretty much useless on semi because it would always seize and would need a full auto burst to free it up.

According to this, V3 boxes maybe more prone to siezing.
http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=25310

As for you Styrak, the way your aug works is you half pull the trigger for semi anyways on your aug. Try quarter pulling it and you may get a seize.

[Styrak]

Well I've incompletely pulled it a few times (1/4 pull), and it never jammed, so I dunno.

[TokyoSeven]

Good, make sure it stays that way, I swear to god if I have to hold one more antireversal latch for you Im gona lose it.