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December 31st, 2008, 21:38 | #16 |
A pogostick
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December 31st, 2008, 21:54 | #17 |
Official ASC Bladesmith
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Just my opinion, but the the EG700 beats the EG1000 any day for any 'build'.
And for shits and giggles, just because I can justify so, I've found much better performance in my CA M24 shooting 0.30g BBs (chronying at 340fps using 0.20g BBs) than I have using 0.30g BBs (chronying at 490fps w/0.20g BBs) at 300ft. The lower fps gets me out there easily, even if they are floating out, but at higher velocities they veer off after around 150-200ft regardless of wind conditions. I know, it's not an AEG, it's better! But my point being, it's literaly useless to run any airsoft gun over 370fps if trying to get maximum range. Best upgrade for increased range is first and foremost, heavier BBs. After that reasonable upgrades will help to a point, past that the higher the fps, the lower the performance goes, and the rate of wear increases. Last year, my one MP5 shooting 360fps could easily out range (200ft) my other MP5 shooting around 400fps (would get about 170ft if lucky) using 0.28g BBs. BBs at higher velocities hit the hop up rubber harder and end up spinning faster, making them much more unstable. I'm actually considering running my CA M24 sniper rifle at sub 400fps velocities for a few games to study the performance. Hell, I used a Laylax 170 spring in it for one game this year, chronied at 585fps, and I used 0.36g BBs, I couldn't hit the square root of fuck all even at 200ft away!!!!! Couldn't even track the BB path, made things harder. |
December 31st, 2008, 23:24 | #18 |
Tys
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^ that's gold...reap the benefits of running sub 400fps...batteries last longer, motor last longer, parts last longer, etc, etc, etc...and you'll still shoot as far as most others on the field...and further than most.
It's the nut behind the butt that makes the rifle shoot well. |
January 1st, 2009, 15:04 | #19 |
whilst i've got this thread open, is there away to remove the pinion gear without spending an excruciating amount of money on a pinion gear remover?
As for the spring, i shall sell my 170 on ebay and buy a 120 or 130, buy a reinforced metal piston and max torque gears. I am going to keep my systema metal bushings and what shall i do about the spring guide? Inside i've already got a metal spring guide, would you recommend changing this to a Systema metal spring guide with metal bearings? With the above setup would i need to buy a reinforced gearbox? Thanks, Alex |
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January 1st, 2009, 16:12 | #20 |
Tys
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A pinion gear remover is the easiest and best way to do it, obviously.
I've done it with a jig that held the back end of the pinion gear and then I tapped out the shaft/motor with a punch. To put back on the new pinion...I made another jig to support the tail end of the shaft while I tapped on the new pinion gear. Honestly it was a pain in the ass...I would have bought a proper pinion gear puller/installer if it wasn't 2am in the morning when I did it. Tys |
January 1st, 2009, 16:31 | #21 |
aha, ok then, ill just buy a gear remover then
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January 1st, 2009, 19:32 | #22 |
any ball bearing spring guide that airsoftparts has is good.
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January 1st, 2009, 20:08 | #23 |
You wouldn't NEED a reinforced one. It might get you a bit more life but I'd stick with the mechbox shell you already have until it breaks. With an M120 or M130 there is a considerable amount of impact and the V2 design (even reinforced ones) is prone to breaking but it can take a decent beating before it does so I'd just use the one you have now. You can help reduce the impact with a sorbo pad which can be easily bought at airsoftparts.ca
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January 1st, 2009, 20:31 | #24 |
I bought a pinion gear remover at an RC shop for $15. I've pulled probably 10 pinions with it. The pinion gear itself can cost you as much as the puller for it.
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Age verifier Northern Alberta Democracy is two wolves and a sheep discussing what's for dinner. Freedom is the wolves limping away while the sheep reloads. Never confuse freedom with democracy. |
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January 1st, 2009, 20:37 | #25 |
thats fairly cheap...i forgot to say that i live in the uk.
i found one on a uk airsoft site which was £33 which is CA$61 which i thought was ridiculous. Also, please can people give me a hand on this one? : http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthr...886#post889886 |
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January 10th, 2009, 12:05 | #26 |
To the OP, you should have just purchased a Systema M170 Complete Mechbox Set with Magnum Motor for your M4. Buying all the other components separately will be much more expensive, and believe me, you will have to change every component of your original mechbox and the mechbox itself with reinforced components if you are going to use a M170 spring.
May I also suggest that you look into getting an ARS (Airsoft Research Syndicate) Sorbothane Pad for your cylinder head and an ARS MASK (Mechbox Anti Shock Kit) Piston Head with Bearing. You can either contact the ASC member Tirador or go to AirsoftParts.ca to purchase these ARS components. These components will absorb a lot of the impact energy that a M170 spring puts out when the piston head hits the cylinder head. I also want to suggest that you get a 11.1V Li-Po Battery or at least a 12V Ni-MH or Ni-Cd Battery and a good MOSFET Switch with Active Braking System. The MOSFET Switch is for your switch assembly, because of the more powerful battery that you are going to be using, your switch assembly will degrade much more faster than usual. The MOSFET Switch is designed to remove the high current load from the standard switch assembly. Anyways, I hope this information was useful to you in your desire to use an M170 spring. |
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