Gauge Wire, 2 or 4 wires, deans?

[ecsinc]

How's this MOSFET?: http://www.irf.com/product-info/data...3402pbf%20.pdf
IRL3402PBF
N-channel
20Vds
85Amps
8mOhms @ 51amps
110Watt max
$3.01 each

P-Channel
60Vds
60Amps
23mOhms(little high)
375Watts
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...SPP80P06PIN-ND

Think thats good?

[mcguyver]

Just buy the Trigger Master unit. It's about $50, all done with every bell and whistle you could ever want, and install should take about 2 minutes if you're slow.

[mateba]

NO, don't buy some naked mosfet. try here http://extreme-fire.com/ (free shipping)
no fuse
http://extreme-fire.com/SW-AB.html
20amp resttable fuse
http://extreme-fire.com/SW-AB-LONG.html
SW-Computer (Very nice)
http://extreme-fire.com/SW-COMPUTER.html
Deans and wire
http://extreme-fire.com/otherstuff.html

14ga at least (really) but the mosfet will come with wire and yes, Deans are a must. I like the Guarder torque motors but if you are saving money you have to cut expenses somewhere. I'm not saying to cut the motor but you might be able to do without all of it. You can't just use any wire, use the stuff that comes with the mosfet. Deans can be found in R/C hobby shops. If you ever feel your wires get warm then its time to upgrade. If you have issues fitting 14ga in your stuff try cutting out sections of the wrap and covering it in shrink wrap instead. If you don't want a big battery or battery bag you could also use a 7.4v 20c lipo. 1200-2000mah should do fine and you should be able to find one cheap (still need a charger though) and one that fits. Just measure your current pack that fits and pick one out. You'll need to get your shimming perfect but your stock motor will perform better and last longer with a lipo. A 7.4v is equivalent to a 9.6 with plenty of juice. Their architecture is much more efficient and its like comparing PC133 SDRAM to DDR3 with heat sinks and neon LEDs. And, since the voltage is so low your motor with stay cooler.

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_index.asp
http://home.comcast.net/~truerc/read...eady_packs.htm
http://www.commonsenserc.com/page.ph...ttery_html.php

sorry, way too many options. Just stick to the battery and mosfet (new wires included).

mateba

[ecsinc]

I looked at Mil-spec wire and it was $1.26per/ft and it was 14gauge .09" or like 2.01mm OD.

I also have a large SC 1800mAh Nicad battery that obviously works better than the mini batteries.

I went and picked up 2 pairs of Deans ultra connectors so I'm looking around for the sodering iron. Won't I have to resoder the wires on the trigger? Well to wire it to the back of the gun? I'll look at the rewire guide. I've got a double M16 mag pouch that'll serve as my battery holder.

Now don't kill me here... I ordered a 9.6v 3800mAh battery from all-battery in cali. I got the email about 3 hours later saying the order has been shipped. I should have it by friday. I've herd mixxed things about tenergy battery cells, some say they're great, others say mediocre. I herd the flaw is that they hold the 1.2-1.25voltage for a while but then suddenly drop off quickly, not holding good charge. It also says 35amp discharge, I doubt that. I herd I should be getting 19-20amps no sweat? Well that is if I put the M140 back in. I hope to spend a long night working on my gun, hopefully charging my new battery, putting the deans on, testing it with the M130, and hopefully being able to put the M140 in, I've got a event saturday. Plus the battey was $21...lol

Then once I get my new job I'll order a MOSFET, IRL1404 I believe, its got a 333watt Id I believe so that should work well. I guess I also need a P channel for active breaking. And I'll also get probably the Guarder ITU motor. I've herd its really good. I like wiring up stuff myself. I'd rather do it myself then pay $20 for a fully furbished piece.

After that I think I should have a pretty rockin gun!
Deep Fire gearbox and Sorbothane cylinder head should never break, even with a M140-M150.

Thanks for the help guys!

[CDN_Stalker]

Originally Posted by mcguyver

Just buy the Trigger Master unit. It's about $50, all done with every bell and whistle you could ever want, and install should take about 2 minutes if you're slow.

Lol, there's a good joke. Slow would be a few days. Fast would be a couple hours at best depending on the gun and where the battery is located.

And #14 AWG is too big to fun through a mechbox. #16AWG is eve too big at times. #18AWG is fine, nothing worng with it at all, and easy to work with.

[mateba]

heh...

[ecsinc]

lol I was thinking of something lastnight. The gears are sounding like they're no oil. I used really high viscosity silicon oil. Its for plumbing applications, the stuff is like paste, thicker than the grease for gears from CA. Well I'm guessing that it came off or dried, something, because it sounds different now. I'll take it appart and put on the gear grease.

Lol, I herd these all-battery, Tenergy cells have a voltage of about 1.1 instead of 1.2, and the 3800mAh cells are more like 2900mAh, well at least the lipo cells are...lol Oh well, can't really beat a $20 battery. Plus if you write a review on their forum you get a $30 GC, lol just buy another and I'll have 2 crappy batteries...
I love these deans tho, they're soo small. When I first got to the hobby shop I thought I got the wrong thing, expecting them to be bigger then the tamiya plugs... When I fire about 20 shots the fuse holder gets hot and the surrounding hot wire. I think I'll remove then fuze and use some 14awg wire that i've got. I herd its fine to remove the fuze as long as your careful when firing and since my gun is semi auto only I should defintally be fine.

[mateba]

Yeah you should be fine. If you ever get around to the mosfets most of the nice ones come with a 20amp resettable low resistance fuse.

[mcguyver]

Originally Posted by CDN_Stalker

Lol, there's a good joke. Slow would be a few days. Fast would be a couple hours at best depending on the gun and where the battery is located.

I should have qualified that I guess. I assume you'd already have the mechbox open, doing your thing. It would be real easy to install any FET at that point.

[CDN_Stalker]

Originally Posted by mcguyver

I should have qualified that I guess. I assume you'd already have the mechbox open, doing your thing. It would be real easy to install any FET at that point.

True, but I've installed four of them so far and some are retarded easy (SR-16 with battery and board in stock) and some are fucking hard (MP5SD with battery on stock bag and board in front grip, need to drill and chisle holes and slots to run wires, longer wires to the battery with Deans disconnects, etc.). Literally, it's the wire management that is the biggest challenge, how do you run the wires for maximum reliability while still maintaining ability to get the mechbox out easily to work on if necessary. Is why I listed them as skill level intermediate to extreme advanced. Really need some creativity and foresight to install these things, was a challenge for me and it's similiar to what I do at work, for someone how is used to basic mechbox work and nothing else relating to wires and such........................... more money to guys like me.

Then there are guns that ths Trigger Master will not work in, namely those that have a 9.6V in a Crane stock, even if the board is loaceted in the front grip, wire reliability is greatly compromised.

Nutshell, hooking them up to a mechbox is very easy. Installing them into a gun yo uplay with and will be opened later for repairs, upgrades, parts swapping.............. fucking hard!

hey stalker where can I get the mil-spec teflon 18 AWG?

[monkey530]

If you email Terry at Extreme Fire and ask him for the SW-Comp parts kit he sells it for $30. What it is is just the SW-Comp unassembled. But I warn you that if you have poor soldering skills or got big clumsy hands then stay away. The thing is a PITA to put together if you have never assembled a PCB before. Few pics on the airsoftmechanics.com website of where people have assembled their kits so that you know what it should look like sort of. He also has the diagram up on his website and pictures of the front and back of the chip. Thanks goodness it is all open source. You could try sourcing the parts yourself, but getting the kit is probably easier. I have bought one and it was my first time assembling a PCB and it was an interesting experience. Terry is a good guy.

I think he also has a evolution kit(newer version of sw-comp with bigger breaking mosfet to take the beating of having low loads) but I have no idea if he is releasing that yet or how much it costs.

[ecsinc]

I've got a 15amp fuse on my gun and I'm running the M140 spring on it, the 9.6v 3800mAh battery which is actually like 3100-3200mAh SC cell. Well the fuse doesn't blow. I thought it would even with ITU gears it'd go over 15amps @ 9.6v... It's gotta be close to 15amps though because it gets real warm after a few shots. So its around 115-130watts which is like nothing so I'm pretty happy. Trigger responce is great! I'm really surprised by this Echo 1 motor. I herd people tell me a JG motor won't pull a M140 spring, even with ITU gears. Well it easially does. I bet it'd pull a M150 or even a M160 spring, but who would want a M160 spring...

I think I'm entirely done with upgrades now. The battery is fine. The trigger contacts are fine now so no MOSFET and I won't need new wire. I did change to the deans plugs which was a HUGE improvement from the old plugs! And the motor pulls it just fine, no new motor! Im happy! The sorbothane cylinder head should help relieve stress from the gearbox.
Thanks for the help guys! I'll keep all these ideas in mind if I eventually need to upgrade.

[ecsinc]

Well my gun works great. I need something else to do..lol

I was thinking today. I've got a BUNCH of 12gauge wire lying around...hmmm I wonder... I took some of the wrapping off then used some leftover shrink wrap to insulate the wire very thinly, .02" for the shrink wrap. Well it fits in my gb..lol I never thought I could fit 12gauge wire in a gearbox but it fits.....minus a few strands while trying to cut off the insulation but hey its like 2x the thickness of the stock 18gauge wire.

So I've got a 3800mAh battery and 12gauge wire in my gun... quite possibly no electrical resistance... complete overkill and $0 to do...