Getting frusterated....need a troubleshoot

[ex]

What's your location? Someone Might be able to find you a gun doc in your area.

[Regan.S]

Why don't you try putting the old tappet plate back in and see if it fires better? You probably have a part failing along the line somewhere.

[Buds and Suds]

Im in Penticton BC.
And I held both tappet plates side by side, they are IDENTICAL, I dont know why I was suggested to get a new one cause the new one isnt made any better than the stock one. At least I have a spare now.
Can the nozzle in anyway cause lack of power? I think it may be a compression issue. When I fire it, sometimes every round just causes a dent, then suddenly a round will go right through and dent the other side. Before I took it apart though, the stock spring was putting 2 out of 4 bb's through both sides at 2 inches. Soda can im talking about.

ex-royal = RCR?

[Regan.S]

Well I guess it's not that then. Any kind of deformation in the barrel? Yeah I'm pretty sure the problems lack of compression but whats causing it?

[outrider]

Originally Posted by Buds and Suds

Did the compression test and with the plastic nozzle piece taken off, putting my finger over the metal spout on the cylinder head (not the plastic nozzle) made the piston stop immediatly, even without having to slam it (Piston and cylinder head ruled out). With the plastic nozzle on, I could not bring my piston to a stop no matter how hard I tried. There was some resistance but I could not make it stop and could hear air escaping from the base of it. But since there is nothing to seal it, this must be normal.

That is not normal. I just tested this and I was able to stop the air from escaping with the nozzle on.

You may have a problem with your nozzle.

Good Luck

[MadMax]

Try this with your AEG set on semi:

1. clear your gun (no bbs in hop up or barrel, remove mag)
2. invert gun so the magwell faces up
3. plug the inner barrel tightly with your finger
4. fire mechbox on semi only (a restricted barrel prevents the piston from returning to full front, firing in full auto can jam the piston teeth against the sector gear and kill the piston)
5. listen to the tone of the report

This test leak tests the entire pneumatic series:

barrel-hopup-nozzle-cylinder head-cylinder-piston head

If you have a sharp piston impact against the cylinder head, you have a significant leak somewhere in the pneumatic series. If you have a very flubby piston impact with the piston observably gradually returning full forward then you have a decently sealed system. Feel for very strong puffs of air out the mag well bb inlet.

[Styrak]

Also, where are you located?
Filling in your profile more would help if you need local help, etc.

[Buds and Suds]

Originally Posted by MadMax

Try this with your AEG set on semi:

1. clear your gun (no bbs in hop up or barrel, remove mag)
2. invert gun so the magwell faces up
3. plug the inner barrel tightly with your finger
4. fire mechbox on semi only (a restricted barrel prevents the piston from returning to full front, firing in full auto can jam the piston teeth against the sector gear and kill the piston)
5. listen to the tone of the report

This test leak tests the entire pneumatic series:

barrel-hopup-nozzle-cylinder head-cylinder-piston head

If you have a sharp piston impact against the cylinder head, you have a significant leak somewhere in the pneumatic series. If you have a very flubby piston impact with the piston observably gradually returning full forward then you have a decently sealed system. Feel for very strong puffs of air out the mag well bb inlet.

Wish I knew this before I took it all apart again. heh. Anyways, im positive my piston head and cylinder head are tight. I checked them again with the cylinder removed. But my nozzle is leaking from where the nozzle meets the cylinder head. I put some silicone around the base of the nozzle and sure enough...compress and I could see the air getting out all around the base as my finger plugged the nozzle opening. But would this seemingly small leak translate into loosing 100fps? abouts. Im unsure about the barrel and hop up and am anxious to try the above test. But it can wait till tomorrow.

How would I plug the barrel and the hopup (bb feed "hole") and fire the action at the same time. I mean, if you plug the barrel wont the air still escape out the bb feed?

[MadMax]

It's normal to have a low leak between a plastic nozzle and the cylinder outlet.

Usually the most difficult to troubleshoot leaks end up between the nozzle and hop up. They're typically caused by something that results in crummy fitment between the hopup body and the mechbox. Sometimes you just can't get a reliable fit between the hopup and the mechbox so the nozzle doesn't pop forward far enough to seal against the rubber sleeve in the HU.

If you are using a 1piece HU body, try hand loading pellets into the HU with the mag removed and chronying. With 1pc HUs, the magazine can pull the HU forward and open a gap in the nozzle-sleeve mate. TM really had it right with their 2pc HU design. It frees the upper HU to float against the mechbox and solidly mounts the bb inlet so a wiggly mag can't affect the barrel-HU-mechbox alignment.

[CDN_Stalker]

I'm starting to think something is wrong with your hop up rubber since both springs spit the BB out at the same rough fps. Check the semi-diaphram at the rear of the hop up (the rubber ring that the BB passes through, and that which seals the nozzle in during firing) and see if it's still intact. If you or no one else has farted around with the rubber, it might still be intact but shifted forward. Also check the hop up unit and make sure your plastic C clip is still intact and holding the hop up unit to the barrel properly. I've had a low fps reading on an upgraded AK before, was to be shooting around 360ish, only sat around 280ish, I dug around and found nothing wrong until I made the nozzle sit full forward in the breech, shone a flashlight into the magwell and looked down the barrel to see light getting in from the bottom. I checked the hop up unit to find the C clip that holds the barrel and unit together had two nice cracks in it. Because the hop up unit didn't hold the barrel solidly, the barrel would shift forward a little bit with each shot, causing a bad airleak.

[Buds and Suds]

Well, I feel much better, and cant believe how much time was wasted on opening my mech box. I payed close attention to my hop up rubber and the way the barrel sat in it. After fidgeting to try to find the perfect "sitting" on the barrel in the rubber, and rubber in the hop up I tried my rifle out again. My can test was inconsistant but positive. One bb only dented the side, then another went through both sides, and then consistantly was knocking the can over going through one side. Then I shot the bottom, first shot almost penetrated, second shot hit a different spot and went right through the bottom. This was at about 3 feet away. Redwolf site says if it penetrates the bottom of a can at 2 inches its firing at about 420Fps. I hope this isnt the case, I only wanted 380 - 400max. Anyways, the power is now there though inconsistant. But I at least know where my issue is and I will be ordering some new hop up rubber.
Thanks for all the advice, i was pulling my hair out untill today. Great community. Cheers!!

[Styrak]

Originally Posted by Buds and Suds

Redwolf site says if it penetrates the bottom of a can at 2 inches its firing at about 420Fps. I hope this isnt the case, I only wanted 380 - 400max.

Redwolf site is wrong, and is most likely only valid for asian style cans, which are much thicker. Through the bottom of a can is like 380-385+ FPS

[gvanzeggelaar]

Im ginna guess that you barrel is too long for you cylinder. The barrel has more volume than the cylinder so when the piston is all the way relaxed the bb still isnt out the barrel. Maybe im wrong but that is my guess