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April 20th, 2014, 19:01 | #16 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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lol I would not try to pull 30A+ off a 25C nanotech, let alone 100A
The C rating is a guideline. And the actual C rating is subject to manufacturing flaws. They probably just take 1/100 batteries aside, put x load on it for x amount of time, and call it a good batch. Just because your dodge is rated to tow 10,000lbs, doesn't mean it can't tow more. It just means it's not a good idea lol |
April 20th, 2014, 19:22 | #17 |
Now I'm all worried that they're not going to work O_o
EDIT: Just out of curiosity why don't NiMH batteries (namely 9.6v 1500 mAh) not suffer the same fate as the LIPO battery? The NiMH battery definitely doesn't supply the 20+Amps I need but work just fine without any issues. Last edited by Vivek92; April 20th, 2014 at 19:33.. |
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April 20th, 2014, 20:38 | #18 |
It doesnt youre fine, the battery will almost always supply the proper amount of amperage that the motor calls for. That c rating is just a guideline as to just how much it will supply without getting damaged. I would stick to 25c discharge but I dont really have any science to explain why, it depends who you ask. Bottom line is were all pretty sure that your battery is no good.
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April 20th, 2014, 20:59 | #19 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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Because NiMH and NiCd cells don't care if they don't supply all the amperage the motor needs. They're are unaffected by over-current draw.
You get around not having enough amperage by raising the voltage of the pack. Which I should add is not preferential for the motor, and is also why triple torque and ultra torque gears exist. It's because your motor can't deliver enough torque to drive high power springs on regular gears due to the lack of amperage. It's also why a 8.4 large will have a significantly higher ROF than an 8.4 mini. The voltage remains the same, but the amperage delivered is increased significantly. The physically larger the NiMH battery, the higher the discharge rate will be. Last edited by ThunderCactus; April 20th, 2014 at 21:01.. |
April 20th, 2014, 21:26 | #20 |
I dont know what else to say. Mah refers to capacity only it has nothing to do with the output of power other than how long it can output said voltage for, the amps are determined by the motors needs. I promise this. On the other hand I can charge my 25c 3s 2200 at 10 amps and be done in just over 10 mins, and you know what they say about charging past a certain c rating...
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November 9th, 2014, 18:49 | #21 |
ok so i was trying to build a dmr type weapon out of this but nothing but overheating problems i try switching out 1 wires i went from low resistance high end wire to home made floppy silicon 16 g wires 2had 140 spring went to 120 spring 3 had Airsoft AIP High Torque AEG Motor HT-40000 to a different motor high torque then another motor and another motor some high torque some just regular 4 shimmed the gears 10000000000000times they were perfect trust me this is not my first rodeo with building . 5 trying several different pistons and heads . 6 now the battery i used 11.1 lipo 1100 20c and i have the gate motet program to 3 shot burst and auto. but still the wires motor and batteries got hot . i have tried every combo everything i can think of . i have no clue . i did reset the mosfet and used a 8.7v battery and still got hot but just took a little longer but not that much longer . what do i do ?i am at a loss . i have tried everything i do have and battery coming to try but who knows ? i know this is old but i am reopening the post i guess sorry |
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November 9th, 2014, 19:15 | #22 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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If the batteries are still getting hot, you might have a short between the wires and body somewhere.
Make sure your motor leads aren't touching anything metal. A slight contact wouldn't cause a full short that would trip a fuse instantly, but it would cause you to draw a lot of extra amperage. |
November 9th, 2014, 22:01 | #23 |
i am going to check everything electrically motor and wire tomorrow i have to figure this out thank you
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November 9th, 2014, 22:11 | #24 |
"bb bukakke" KING!
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shoot the gearbox outside of the gun, that should remove any chance the wires are being pinched by the receiver. Monitor the temp that way.
IF you have a watt meter even better. a 120 setup should draw around 22-24 amps, though it will depend on the motor winding and magnet strength as well as your gearset ratio. Which method did you use to shim your gears? Did you shim the pinion to bevel first or did you start from another method?
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I futz with V2s, V3s and V6s. I could be wrong... but probably, most likely not, as far as I know. |
November 9th, 2014, 23:00 | #25 | |
Quote:
what do i set the watt meter on ? gear set are 100:200 or 20:1 same thing i think. if i am wrong please correct me . shimmed perfect i put the motor in and let the gear spin with no spring and it still gets hot not as fast but gets hot. the shimming i did was bevel then spur then sector i take out the bevel after i have that done and then spur i start with no shim then the sector then i shim the spur very little on under and same for the sector . when they are good and spinning freely i put bevel in and shim it more or less if needed i put the box together . install motor without spring make sure i get good sling and no noises . and then i install the piston spring and put it together . . i think i have to find out where it may be touching the wires that is . or the motor could be touching the metal who knows but tomorrow is the last day till i just take it in tuesday to the tech and see why and what he can do he is really good . so we will see |
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December 12th, 2014, 22:44 | #26 |
so i forgot to mention i took it a part re greased everything and reshimmed <------ not a real word . but anyway i got the new battery and not heat . but i did strip the teeth on the pistol put new piston in and works fine no heat . i have burst fire and semi because it is a sniper rifle
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