G&G Compatibility

[||*||Talonted]

bought a G&G GR16, want to upgrade the internals that need reliability. Are these Mechboxes compatible with TM internals as far as piston, spring, motor, gearset and mech shells?

I am experienced with building Ver2 boxes but i dont know nothing about the company and compatibility of G&G

[Kokanee]

Pretty much compatible across the board, but for their new pneumatic blowback enabled guns, you'll need to be able to do a bit of precision dremelling/drilling to put an extra hole in an aftermarket cylinder. Other than that knock yourself out.

A note though, these days most top level manufacturers don't need to have all the "guts" of a mechbox switched out, they pretty much all come with steel gears standard, high quality pistons etc.

G&G's QC lately has been hitting the toilet though so definitely a good idea to crack that gun open and take a look to make sure everything is kosher.

[||*||Talonted]

ive found that re-shimming the motor is one of the first things to do. years ago i built a M4 using a Madbull8mm v2 box.
Was wanting to upgrade the box, piston, cylinder and spring for durability when using lipo's.
I have been into RC racing and have got a bunch of lipos id like to use in the AEG as nimh's are garbage with poor delivery in comparison

[||*||Talonted]

I bought this not even knowing that it had come with the elec blowback and to tell you the truth, it seems the same as any of my others that ive owned.

Say i install a new cylinder and don't drill the hole needed, will that just halt the blowback system from operating?

[Styrak]

Yup.

[pestobanana]

If it has pneumatic blowback the first thing you should do is plug that shit. Put in a standard ported cylinder without that stupid hole that forces you to use a 500 FPS spring to get close to 400.

I've seen enough G&G gearbox shells crack that I always tell customers to disable their PBB.

[||*||Talonted]

After replacing the cylinder, i suppose you'd end up firing at a higher Velocity without the wasted pressure.

Seeing as you are a recognized gun doc PestoBanana;

If Plugging the hole increases fps, which way would you go to bring it back down?

A) Downgrade the spring

B) Buy piston with less teeth for a shorter compression stroke

C) Another way i havent thought of lol

Consistent, accurate and durable is what im going for while running 2 and 3 cell lipos..

Here is another brain buster for someone, most likely a doctor

This GR16 has a non functional forward assist, do i install a mechbox with one or is there another tool ppl use for decompression when not in use. I know you can hear where the piston stops roughly just by doing a dry fire but.... The wife will be using this GR16 and i can picture a spring compressed with the piston ready to fly and a lipo hooked up to it could only spell disaster on a cold mechbox.

[Spike]

I don't believe there's an aftermarket gearbox shell that lets you use the forward assist. I could be wrong, however. But most G&G AR platforms that I've seen have that feature built in if they're the blowback series.
One or two last shots in semi auto with a 2S lipo should be fine, especially if you're keeping the stock motor.

You may have to trim the back of the cylinder to fit in the blowback gearbox, just as a heads up.

If you want to give it a reliability tuneup, I would say shim the gearbox (especially the pinion gear to the bevel gear), install a basic mosfet to protect your trigger contacts against 3S lipo use, and install a sorbothane pad/correct the angle of engagement. The stock pistons are quite good so you shouldn't have to worry about it for some time, especially if you do your pre-emptive tune up on it.

Because those gearbox shells aren't as strong as they should be, I would recommend downgrading to an M110 spring.

[pestobanana]

Don't simply plug the hole, change to a cylinder that doesn't have that hole. Then you should change your spring to decrease FPS. Short stroking would require you to buy a piston with more metal teeth, and is a lot of work compared to $15 for a spring.

On a G&G gearbox I would recommend the following for a basic reliability tune up

SHS 14T Piston with rack glued in for durability
Lonex POM Piston Head
SHS M4 Ported Cylinder
SHS or Lonex Cylinder Head, then attach a 70D Sorbo Pad
A nozzle with an internal O-ring for a proper air seal

The stock gears are not great but are good enough for standard setups, just reshim them.

Install a MOSFET. Avoid PicoSSR FETs. I make my own MOSFETs, they're small enough to install inside a rear wired G&G mechbox. If you want one, PM me.

With that basic setup I don't foresee mechbox failure for a very long time.

Originally Posted by ||*||Talonted

After replacing the cylinder, i suppose you'd end up firing at a higher Velocity without the wasted pressure.

Seeing as you are a recognized gun doc PestoBanana;

If Plugging the hole increases fps, which way would you go to bring it back down?

A) Downgrade the spring

B) Buy piston with less teeth for a shorter compression stroke

C) Another way i havent thought of lol

Consistent, accurate and durable is what im going for while running 2 and 3 cell lipos..

Here is another brain buster for someone, most likely a doctor

This GR16 has a non functional forward assist, do i install a mechbox with one or is there another tool ppl use for decompression when not in use. I know you can hear where the piston stops roughly just by doing a dry fire but.... The wife will be using this GR16 and i can picture a spring compressed with the piston ready to fly and a lipo hooked up to it could only spell disaster on a cold mechbox.

[lurkingknight]

sorboing the cylinderhead also helps prevent the front of the gearbox from cracking. Some brands out there use unreinforced marui clone shells (ics, g&g) and long term use above 1J can lead to that spectacular failure where the whole front of the gearbox comes flying off.

Sorbo has lots of great benefits in an AEG.. in addition to correcting the AoE to reduce/prevent piston stripping.

[||*||Talonted]

Originally Posted by Spike

You may have to trim the back of the cylinder to fit in the blowback gearbox, just as a heads up.

Because those gearbox shells aren't as strong as they should be, I would recommend downgrading to an M110 spring.

I will be swapping the cylinder out for a non pneumatic replacement, Thanks for the tip on the fitment Spike!!!