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G&P Motor in a Magpul MOE Pistol Grip - Hell.

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Old March 8th, 2013, 13:43   #1
Rabbit
formerly FrankieCees, Remylebeau
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Hamilton
G&P Motor in a Magpul MOE Pistol Grip - Hell.

So I have one of the G&P M120 motors that happened to come with the AEG I recently purchased from the classifieds - amazing ROF out of it.

The G&P seems to have no issues with your standard M4A1 pistol grip but the minute I tried to swap it out for an MOE - thats when shit hit the fan.

The G&P first off is too wide (front to back) for the MOE grip - figured I could just sand down the inside of the grip and rectify that issue quick time.

Although now im reading that end of the G&P motor (white part that sits againts the adjuster for motor height) needs to be sanded down (higher than normal motors by mm's) and custom fitted to work in conjuction with the MOE pistol grip.

Going over ASC graveyard posts - G&P motors used to be the go to - but more recently have just been pure shitted on.

I'm actually just now looking at scrapping the G&P and going with the Lonex A5 because im running a stock Cyma spring (assuming s110) and the A1/A2 would probably just destroy my mechbox - I really dont want to lose out on this ROF tho.

Anyone have any expirience with this issue and MOE grips?
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Old March 10th, 2013, 10:06   #2
MaciekA
 
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Portland, Oregon, USA
I just opened up my C8 to check.

I have the G&P M160 in there. I have a drawer here in my workroom that has 2 G&P M120 motors, so I checked one of those in the grip and compared it to the M160 motor. If anything, the M120 can actually seems very slightly more compact than the M160, which very easily fits in my MOE grip.

I think there may be more than one MOE grip on the market with respect to internal design, though. Mine has lots of room for wiring, the threading for the screw is on a sort of shaft that bulges out from the walls of the inside of the grip, allowing the wiring (Turnigy 16AWG in my case) to be tucked away.

You should just go with an A2, it's more efficient and will give you plenty of speed with that spring.
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Old March 11th, 2013, 10:36   #3
Rabbit
formerly FrankieCees, Remylebeau
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Hamilton
I already read one of your graveyard posts addressing some issues with the MOE and G&P motors.

The G&P m120 is fantastic - brand new and the rof it pumps out is bonkers - one thing - WHY DOES IT GET SO WARM?

Several posts i've read state its normal and common in G&P motors but I dont like it...it doesn't seem right.

The A2 huh...reading on airsoftstore.ca i kind of get freaked out that you can end up with pre-engagement issues if your spring isn't strong enough - but i'm willing to take your word on it.

Thanks for looking into that for me!
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Old March 11th, 2013, 10:53   #4
Stealth
Mr. Silencer
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Toronto
The M120 motor typically gets warm if it's trying to pull a spring that's outside of its ideal peak efficiency power range.


So dunno if you care but if you're looking for retarded ROF without preengagement and fancy gears this is the setup I just did this past weekend.

G&G shell
SHS 14T piston (old style) - Short Stroked 3 teeth
Lonex POM piston head
Type-1 cylinder
Lonex M120SP spring
SHS 13:1 gears - Short Stroked 3 teeth
Lonex A1 motor
Turnigy Nanotech 1300mah 25-50C 11.1v battery

I clocked it doing 40rps @ 368fps with no pre-engagement issues. YMMV. You can substitute for a swiss-cheesed 15T piston or something equally light
Think the whole setup took me about 15 minutes to do + testing time.

The reason why I did this setup over an M100 or M110 and 7.4v lipo is the ROF and trigger response is significantly better.

Last edited by Stealth; March 11th, 2013 at 11:45..
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Old March 11th, 2013, 20:50   #5
slntdth93
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
would you say the Lonex A1 or A2 would be alright for a M90 set up with a SHS 15T (or averagely light piston) and a 7.4v 1300mah 25C battery or would that cause PE too
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Old March 11th, 2013, 21:07   #6
Kos-Mos
 
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: LĂ©vis (QC)
I have installed a M120 in a MOE grip just last week...

Seems to me that you got a knock-off MOE and it's really poorly made.
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Old March 11th, 2013, 21:49   #7
ThunderCactus
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Also weirded out
I've put no less than 5 G&P M120s into MOE grips and they were just as loose as they are in A2 grips

And yes the M120 has a retarded ROF, but it's not well built. Needs to be lathed, tuned, and shimmed. And even then it's not spectacular, but it's way better.
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Old March 12th, 2013, 00:54   #8
MaciekA
 
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Location: Portland, Oregon, USA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rabbit View Post
I already read one of your graveyard posts addressing some issues with the MOE and G&P motors.

The G&P m120 is fantastic - brand new and the rof it pumps out is bonkers - one thing - WHY DOES IT GET SO WARM?

Several posts i've read state its normal and common in G&P motors but I dont like it...it doesn't seem right.

The A2 huh...reading on airsoftstore.ca i kind of get freaked out that you can end up with pre-engagement issues if your spring isn't strong enough - but i'm willing to take your word on it.

Thanks for looking into that for me!
Pre-engagement isn't really a problem for anyone with a little time and creativity on tap. It's also FAR less of a problem if you are willing to run a harder spring, a motor with serious torque, and a strong battery. Starving a powerful gun of air volume is never hard if you have some spare parts or sorbo lying around.

If you like speed, then you must also like instant trigger response. The M120 might impress you now, but it's nothing compared to running 13:1 gears with a good neo motor. You should try out my Diablo build some time if we see each other at a Hill' game... You will instantly understand why torque+speed ratio gears are the only way to go.
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