1911/2011 leaf spring/diconnector help

[p.phresh]

I'm building a TM 1911 from parts (I don't know why either, as it would have just been cheaper to buy new), and I'm having issues with the leaf spring not pushing the disconnector back up so I can pull the trigger and drop the hammer, and often I have to press the trigger twice, once to reset the disconnector and once to drop the hammer.

I've tried bending the right-most prong on the leaf spring to apply more pressure, and I still has this issue.

I've tried decreasing the pressure and it works less or not at all.

I'm not sure what else I can do to get this to work better, but I'd love some help or ideas on how to get this working flawlessly.

The lower is all TM parts aside from the main spring housing, which comes from a KJW MEU, but other then that it's all TM 1911 or Hi-Capa internals.

[Bond]

I've taken apart my KJW 1911A1 numerous times trying to give it a "match grade trigger", and the same thing happened to me. As far as I can tell, the contact point between the sear and the hammer is worn down too much on the hammer side, causing the hammer to sit a little too close to the back of the slide. The only thing I can think of is to buy another hammer, or to file down the disconnector so that it slides freely in between the trigger and the sear. Maybe that will help! (I'm not responsible for any work that you do on your own gun)

[Styrak]

All the fingers of the leaf spring should be sitting ON TOP of the components they're touching.

[apilar]

I am currently sitting in class so I'm not able to listen to this video but I think he discusses how to fix your problem!

http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=KPUtQY7dKuw&feature=plpp

[apilar]

that was a bad link... this one should be better

Trigger group problems and fixes for Marui airsoft 1911s. - YouTube

[jordan7831]

Is the problem you have to pull the trigger twice to get the gun to fire?

For instance after you fire, you have to pull the trigger once, nothing happens.
Then pulling a second time fires the gun?

If this is the problem. HERE is my fix for it. I had the same problem when I kit bashed a WE dragon a while ago, and put stock TM parts in it.

If that is happening, then it could be a case of the disconnector and sear not mating up correctly.

The disconnector would not have enough clearance to slip back under the sear after fireing.

Pulling the trigger that first time would jostle everything back into place, then the second pull of the trigger would fire the gun.

For me the fix was easy. Simply file down just a little bit of material where the sear and the disconnector touch each other.

If you were to put the gun together without the beavertail you should see this happening when you fire. The first pull that does nothing will have the disconnector slip back under the sear, then the second pull should fire off the gun.


Ignore the red arrow in the picture. Its a stock pic from redwolf I found.
Take note of the contact point of the sear and disconnector. You are likely having fitment problems here where there is too much material on the sear.

[p.phresh]

Thanks for the help Jordan et al.

Last weekend I had a few buddies over and one of them was determined enough to fix the problem... he swapped a bunch of parts out I had from my parts bin and I think he eventually settled on the problem being on the BBH not allowing the disconnecter to return properly along with the recoil spring being too strong.

After swapping out many parts, it finally worked.

[ILLusion]

This is a common problem. The easiest fix is to simply file a minor ramp in the back of the sear to provide clearance for the disconnector to slip up behind it.

A lot of people recommend filing the disconnector itself, and I don't get why.... if you ever screw up, finding a replacement disconnector will never be as easy nor cheap to find, as a replacement sear would be!