CA B&T Mp5a2 - a good choice? alternatives

[FirestormX]

Originally Posted by MonnoncMaxou

And the electric blowback is just addictive.

I've been wanting to try an EBB for a while now, just so I can see what it does. Everything I've read/seen/heard, is that they do next to nothing. Some people even recommend just turning it off.

I don't mean to derail the thread by asking for people's opinions on EBB, but is it worth putting EBB into the equation of what gun to get?

[Styrak]

No, it shouldn't really affect your choice. In some cases it's a negative since it's just something else that can break. However some people like the little bit of extra sound and movement.

[MonnoncMaxou]

Yes it's a matter of taste and it should in no way be the sole factor in the decision. You can say goodbye to stealth with EBB but hello to realism and yes, like Styrak points out, it's just another thing that can break, however if it does break, it has no incidence on the gun's performance, at least not in the case of the G&G MP5.

[m102404]

I haven't had a G&G EBB MP5 on the bench for a while...are they the same pneumatic type system as their M4's? Or are they something different where there's actually some sort of recoil?

If they're like the chintzy system on their M4's then, IMHO...the "blowback" is nothing like a blowback/recoil effect, even a muted version because it's airsoft vs. real steel. Think of someone flicking a popcan...that'd be a closer approximation of it.

It's very much a gimmick. Essentially it's a flimsy tin plate that it's driven back and then allowed to snap forward. The tin plate weighs less than an empty pop can if that's any pointer as to how much mass is getting tossed around (and ergo any "feel" you'll feel) and how tin-y it'll sound.

Along with that setup goes the proprietary mechbox shell, cylinder and top piston (the one that drives the tin plate) setup. It's not a bad design...it's just proprietary. Unless you go with a setup that disables the gimmick noisemaker you're held to using that mechbox shell cylinder and top piston.

I had one...and it was really neat how it worked, taking it apart, how well it did what it was advertised to do. For what it's designed to do, it's very well built to do that. The novelty wore off in about 5min (probably less).

The CA MP5's will seem very "industrial" in comparison. Externally/assembly wise they are built like tanks. The "quick disassembly" or "QD" feature actually works as designed and makes for at least fewer headaches when (not IF, but WHEN...since you'll eventually need/want to work on any AEG you get) you need to get into it. Other makes/manufacturers have done something similar...I've found CA's to be consistently easy to work with, whereas others can be really tight as in "how'd they ever get this to slide together".

The CA mechboxes as so-so. They always have been. At lower power (i.e. what they used to come stock in at about 330fps w/0.02) they'd either fail right away...usually a blown piston...or else they would work forever. Mechbox shells and most other parts are ok though...so with a little tinkering and love they can last ages.

Full stock MP5's are the way to go...go with a large NiMh and you'll be set for the whole weekend. Collapsible stocks are ninja cool...but they'll get loose/floppy and or bent with really rough games. You can usually get either stock setup after the fact though and just swap it. Mini batteries suck...and, IMO, PEQ boxes on MP5's seem odd. A lipo up front in the handguard is a decent option though. A good sized 7.4v will last forever.

The CA lowers are usually well built. The only cracking I've seen has been from bad knocks/impacts. The selector switch "click-i-ness" is sometimes mushy on the CA's...but if you take the selector off and use a small drill bit to deepen/sharpen the divots (just turn it a bit with finger pressure) it's fine.

I really like the looks of the SD versions...and when a MP5 AEG is tuned nicely it's pretty quiet so the looks fit. They're a bit bulkier though...so personal preference. I'd probably go with a non-SD forend (with a light) and add a muzzle attached suppressor if needed.

There's a difference between 330 and 380...but there's no difference between 330 and 350 or 380-400. If you're just starting out get something in the sub 350 range. It can always be jacked up down the road...but it's winter season, there'll be more indoors than out. Anyways, get used to what you end up getting...use it for at least a dozen games and then really think about what you want to change.

ICS MP5's might be an alternative to consider. I wouldn't recommend the TM MP5's with so many other viable options.

I would avoid importing myself. You might save some money, you might not after you factor in shipping/duties/etc... You might not have problems with customs, you might. Personally I hate just wondering if it's going to arrive and the PITA with missing deliveries and picking stuff up from the post office. You don't state where you are so who knows if that's applicable or not.

[BennyBoy]

Isn't a general consensus that you disable the EBB right away? Seems to increase overall durability if you do and if you really want blowback, GBBR is the way to go anyways. I originally wanted a mp5 also and all my research pointed at the CA BT MP5 w/ full stock

[danceswithpellets]

Awesome thanks guys, gals! Ca mp5 sounds good!

My pal went and one upped me by getting a umarex hk 416 cqb. Its a sweet piece. I'm worried about keeping up to him vis a vis having the same range capabilities in the outdoor skirmishes to come.

Any advice? I'm willing to put a couple bucks into this thing and some time