G&P m170 heat issue

[krap101]

Hey guys,

I installed a m170 in with an extremefire cheetah 2n last week, and played a little bit on Sunday. I noticed the motor got really hot, and on the g&g f2000, the motor is right next to the battery (touching). I was worried about my lipo, so I switched to another gun. Is it heating up so much because of the active braking from the mosfet, is this normal, or is something wired wrong? As to how hot... I want to say that it wouldn't burn you, but it was getting close, and most specifically, the lipo wouldn't like it at all.

Thanks

[ThunderCactus]

This is totally normal.
Any motor running off a MOSFET and LiPo is going to run way hotter than normal.
With an 11.1v LiPo, your not only getting more voltage than a 9.6v battery, but your also getting WAY more amperage. More power going to the motor = more heat.
The active braking also adds more heat since it forces the motor to work harder. Since it's heating up so much, your going to have to worry about your SW-COMP shutting off due to heat as well, it happened to me frequently before tuning my motors, and happened constantly on my 249 until DonP built me a bigger SW-COMP.
The LiPo doesn't mind it at all, it's just your wiring, motor, and SW-COMP that are heating up.

Honestly the only 2 ways you can fix the problem is to either put less voltage through the motor, or tune up the motor.
You'll have to balance it, get high quality brushes and set your spring tension to insure the motor is using the minimum amount of amperage for it's maximum amount of power.

By example, I've done this to several G&P M140's, a systema magnum and G&P M120
The magnum was highest at 12A, and the G&P was trailing at 8A before tuning. After tuning the magnum was at 8A, and the M140's were drawing 4.25A

They all ran significantly cooler afterwards.

With an SW-COMP your going to be able to REALLY tell how high quality your motors are, good luck even trying to run a systema magnum without modifying it lol
All 4 guns I've seen with SW-COMPs and magnum motors were plagued with overheating issues.

[Azathoth]

The active breaking is a significant component to your heat problem. I suggest you turn off that feature on your board if you can. HS5 suggests as does SKAG that you disable active breaking on platforms that push ~430Fps. I've personally done some damage to a Systema Magnum motor from running it on the Trigger Master (essentially identical) on the same conditions that where outlined on ASM.

Cactus is right about modifying the magnum motor before running a MOSFET or Trigger computer. At the minimum you *should* do the Motor insulation mod.

I personally never had a problem with the SW-COMP heating up or the wiring on my any of my guns for that matter, or even the Computer shutting down due to heat until I plugged in one of these. The Motor on the other hand was the problem until I shut off active breaking.

What TCactus posted will work for you too, but the easier solution for novice to informed DIY gun repair guys getting a COMP that features active breaking off is easier, although not the best solution. The IDEAL solution is to do the motor mods, get a upgraded Cheetah with the breaking off feature, AND ask for some upgraded hardware on the board. I'm certain that this is what Cactus has done, and it's what I have personally done on my guns. The greatest benefit as he stated was seeing how much performance high end motors have over the 'good' to junk motors. Magnum and equivalent motors don't really show off what they have under the hood until you start pushing M170+ springs

[m102404]

With some "silly" builds I've overheated motors and MOSFETs...better ones will just shut down until they cool off...other ones will die a horrible melted mess.

Tuning a motor will help.

In the end of things...I've just gone with tamer setups that don't kill themselves. I haven't found it to be necessary.

AB is neat...but is it really necesary unless you're getting double cycles? You could always enable it post game to set your piston forward as much as possible (or crank it a couple of times with a lesser battery).

[krap101]

Could you guys elaborate a little bit on motor tuning? I can reduce motor speed on the cheetah, so that should reduce amperage a bit.

Also, I'll turn off AB before the next game. I was running a 1000ish mah 11.1v lipo in it, and with my mosfet right next to it.

[ThunderCactus]

You'll have to hand off your motor to someone with a comm lathe and experience tuning motors for RC cars
It makes a big difference in performance. And it's absolutely mandatory if your running a small buffer tube or an/peq battery.
I've seen amperage consumption go from 30%-66% down. That means huge gains in battery life.

[Hightimes]

YouTube - Airsoft Motor: Cleaning & "BREAK-IN" HD

This might help...