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July 16th, 2009, 18:24 | #16 | |
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However, if you were to get an ICS bolt... and with some work you could get another body to work. |
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July 20th, 2009, 23:50 | #17 |
I just got the 'Plastic wood' version of this AK. Its got the TM Plate style bolt. Anyone else have their G&G like this?
________ Vaporizers' Last edited by Strelok; April 11th, 2011 at 12:36.. |
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August 5th, 2009, 13:29 | #18 |
formerly Knyte
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Interesting, we'll be bringing in one of the fake wood versions and do a full review as soon as CAS gets them back in stock.
Update on the wood version though, had Amos work his magic with her, put in a few upgrades, sorbo pad, new cylinder head (that seals nicely), shim job, and spring. Shooting wonderfully at 370 fps w/ .2's, very nice range and accuracy, good ROF, has been a solid performer. I'm still really impressed with this piece. |
August 22nd, 2009, 19:22 | #19 |
My friend got a AK-47 from G&G, worked fine for 2 months, but today, the gun is firing and the BB's go straight down due to lack of power. We don't know whats happening , but the gun make a wierd noise. We tried pretty much everything we can do without dissasembling the gun, like trying other brand of mags, or putting bb's 1 by 1. and firing on semi (BB's used were Madbull Precision 5.95) we also tried different kind of battery's. we cleaned the barrell, but nothing to do, everytime it seems that fps had dropped to 150... What could it be?? please thanks for the help in advance
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August 22nd, 2009, 20:50 | #20 |
Complete loss of compression, shattered piston head, broken cylinder head, partially stripped piston, Torn hop-up rubber.... There's a whole lot of stuff that could cause that.
Send it to a gun doc for a proper diagnosis |
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August 22nd, 2009, 22:34 | #21 |
I've seen in your review of the internals that it had some compression problem, whats the brand of the properly ported cylinder you used ?
Also, what kind of piston head did you used to replace the defective one? Thanks for replying P:S Sending it to a gun doc would be a good idea, but we prefer doing it by ourselves. Last edited by Boomshakah; August 22nd, 2009 at 22:39.. |
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August 22nd, 2009, 23:06 | #22 | |
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__________________
member of fire team NOM. my other regular forum: www.toyotanation.com / gen3,gen4 camry |
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August 22nd, 2009, 23:45 | #23 | |
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August 22nd, 2009, 23:57 | #24 |
Thank you, when i will open the gun to see what's wrong, i'll replace broken parts with some of that brand ^^
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September 26th, 2009, 14:09 | #25 |
are these the same as combat machine G&G (plz pm with answer)
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October 12th, 2009, 17:15 | #26 |
G&G AK47 REC VERSION FPS: 321-345 on .20 gram BB Bastards Initial impressions of this gun were extremely poor... This thing feels like a child's toy... I feel sorry for anyone that purchases this gun as their first gun.. in my honest opinions it seems as if it would ruin the "awesome" factor of airsoft. Everything is fairly solid... But I'm 100% sure that this gun would degrade rapidly over time. Notice a trend here? Yea. That's screws threaded into plastic.. G&G decided against putting a nut for the screws to thread into. This will become a HUGE problem for this gun, eventually the screws will wear through the plastic and become "stripped." This will cause the gun to fall apart and preform TERRIBLY. Places where screws are threaded into plastic without any reinforcement: Butt-stock Cap, Stock Trunnion to butt-stock, Front end (These will strip if the gun is taken apart more than twice), Hop-up screws. Hop up unit is made out of metal, it appears to be the standard G&G AK hop-up unit. The barrel is cut from a low grade aluminum and was EXTREMELY dirty. Mechbox: Selector arms are very nicely machined! If only G&G would have done this to the REST OF THE BLOODY GUN. 6mm brass bushings, I'm not a fan of brass bushings because brass is so soft... Eventually the harder metal of the gears will wear the brass away and start wobbling (this is very bad) Standard gears and Anti-reversal latch Solid chunk of mystery metal for the spring guide... no thrust ring or bearings on it (That's a bad thing) Shimming: Bevel gear is loose, over .5mm of play Spur gear has over .5mm of movement Sector gear is shimmed well I would give the shim job on this a 6/10 Airseal parts: PISTON HEAD STILL SUCKS. The cylinder is coated in a black material (teflon?) to make the gun look black through the body... The finish on the cylinder is flaking off and will eventually cause problems in the gearbox. OVERALL: I would highly recommend saying away from the rec line of this gun... It's poor build quality will make this gun an absolute disaster after a short period of time. This gun isn't 100% TM compatible externally, so upgrading to full metal will be very difficult. The magazine also fits this gun quite poorly, it need to be held in place to insure 100% reliable feeding. Avoid this gun, Buy the normal or advanced version of it. |
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October 12th, 2009, 19:03 | #27 |
Thanks! I enjoy reading these
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April 12th, 2010, 01:32 | #28 |
Hmm...
Originally i was going to purchase this gun from buyairsoft.ca for 298.00...the REC one that is. after looking at your review i'm still debating. would i be better off buying the AK-47 W/S or should i go with the AK-47 REC. I currently have magazines for AK's and don't really want to have to switch to a different assault rifle. any input would be much appreciated.
Thank you for your time and patience |
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April 12th, 2010, 01:49 | #29 | |
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__________________
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February 8th, 2011, 18:19 | #30 |
butthurt for not having a user title
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As a note for long-term usage of the full-wood AK, I would recommend that you factor in the price of a replacement lower to the total cost of the unit when buying one.
These guns are solid and run very well bone-stock, but the fit and finish can con you into thinking that the gun is tougher than it is. The stock is held in place by a metal lug which attaches to the lower internally, and is held on by nothing but the frame (hot metal on plastic love). This is fine for feel, but through regular non-abusive game type strain the lower will develop a hairline crack running from top to bottom along the rear left-hand seam of the plastic body. This, if left unchecked, will break freely if given a push, or torqued on a sling, and potentially cause catastrophic internal failure as per tension on the wires. I learned from paintball guns that any time there is metal interacting with plastic you will have a failure point. The question is when. This guy held up for several indoor games, one short night game in rocky conditions, and 3+ hours daytime in the same rocky terrain. On review, I believe the biggest contributor was CQB and the structural stresses maneuvering in confined spaces can bring. I had planned on replacing the lower from the get-go, so none of this came as a unpleasant surprise to me. The gun is a good performer, upgradeable and well-built otherwise. I would recommend it even as a starter gun for it's tolerance of abuse and build quality (with note of the potential to pinch wires when re-mounting the gearbox), but trusting this gun as it is without a metal receiver would be foolish. tldr: Buy an alternative or replacement lower when you buy it, or don't buy it at all. |
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