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September 26th, 2008, 20:02
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#1 |
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Revolver Cycling problem ? look at the cylinder lock.
Hello
this is a solution. Tonight I broke my M500, but this made me learn something: The cylinder lock (this is the part that protrudes out of the frame at the bottom of the cylinder) makes sure that there is coaxiality (alignement?) between the cylinder and the barrel. Most of the cycling problem come from something wrong at the cylinder lock level. My old 357 TM had this problem, and I remember the cylinder lock was wobbly. Tonight the lock on my 500 broke (tanks to Tanaka's CHEAP CRAP POT METAL ), and the exact same problem I had on the 357 started appearing. So next time your revolver behaves weird, look at the lock. good night everybody! jim
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Last edited by Jimski; September 28th, 2008 at 12:03.. |
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September 26th, 2008, 20:37
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Scotty aka harleyb
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Gotta have your thread moved into solutions. Which I've done. Cheers!
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September 26th, 2008, 20:53
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That lever which locks the cylinder in place is the most poorly designed piece of shite I've seen. Like you said, it's a piece of pot metal with a piece of what should-be spring steel press fit to it. Every time you cock the hammer, it puts pressure on the steel piece and in turn on to the press fitting. It's almost designed to destroy itself eventually. I've tried to cut my own piece out of a square bit of metal, but it's just so damn small and oddly shaped.
I love my Tanaka revolvers but that part alone keeps me from using them more often. Boo-urns Boo-urns... M EDIT: Here's the closest I've come to finding a new one: http://www.uncompany.com/pageproduct...sp?prodid=9927 Last edited by Murdoch; September 27th, 2008 at 20:41.. |
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September 26th, 2008, 21:22
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#4 |
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thx Mantelope
thank you Murdoch for the input Victims! here are the symptoms I got: -goes 'Pooof' sometimes and no BB comes out. -rubber O-rings in the cylinder start getting blasted and deformed -cylinder sometimes locks in position, double action fails. -cylinder lock doesn't lock hard enough anyone knows what Tanaka's homepage is?
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February 21st, 2009, 16:32
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#5 |
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About to take apart a Tanaka M500 S&W - any advice?
Hello all
I'm about to take apart my M500 to fix the cylinder lock that broke. I will take the part out and pin ( or double-pin) a piece of metal made to act like the original thing ( I lost it). Is there anything I should know when taking apart the gun? thanks you very moch.
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February 22nd, 2009, 12:51
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#6 |
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waow the M500 crowd is amazing
 anyway here are some pics, for your enjoyment. I discovered 5mn too late by looking on the manual that the upper right screw on the body is FAKE. do not attempt to unscrew it... I will probably be sticking a fake screw head in this position to replace the one I drilled away thinking it was locked M500 opened showing internals: very clean like a bmw   The Cylinder Lock I had to fix (blurry), and the wall hook I used to fix it  a better view of the fixed part, not soldered yet  the part in position  I have no idea if it's going to work. The width and depth of the hook seem alright, I'll be adjusting the elevation today, and soldering before I can test. The big deal is that the cylinder has to be perfectly aligned with the barrel... in position  it ended up being too high. modifying... here it was soldered but I switched to PC7.
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Last edited by Jimski; February 22nd, 2009 at 17:35.. |
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February 23rd, 2009, 09:15
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#7 |
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heya all.
PC7 didn't cure properly for some reason ( or I didn't wait long enough ) and the part broke again. I ended up using polyurethane glue, this thing is stronger than it looks and fills all the space you can't get with soldering or putty. The part actually works, its elevation needs to be very precisely adjusted to release the cylinder and block it right afterwards.This part suffers a very pic torsion to the left, I suspect it's going to break again. As murdock said it would need to be made of steel. The good news is that it apparently restored a proper cycling, the barrel coaxiality seeming not so hard to obtain after all (all the gas comes out front) coming next:shooting test
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Last edited by Jimski; February 23rd, 2009 at 09:18.. |
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February 24th, 2009, 08:48
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it's working!
Polyurethane glue is super strong. When gluing the pieces it's a good idea to put a drop of glue on a surface near the pieces: this way you can see how it cures and expanses, and you can wait for it to be truly hard before trying the part.(takes more than 24 hours) Apparently barrel coaxiality in not such a big problem as long as the left side of the lock is decently positionned. Now you guys can fix all those old Tanaka Revolvers sleeping in their crates waiting for replacement parts that will never come!
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February 26th, 2009, 11:12
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#9 |
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polyurethane glue wasn't strong enough !
apart from that the part did really provide some smooth action for some time. everything I tried has failed so far, it needs a machined steel component here. crap!
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Last edited by Jimski; March 2nd, 2009 at 15:08.. |
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March 2nd, 2009, 15:38
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Why not try soldering it again? Rather then using glue?
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March 2nd, 2009, 15:55
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#11 |
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I don't have the proper soldering gear
 do you? I'd be interested
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June 13th, 2010, 02:36
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I'm looking into getting one of these, keep us updated on how things are going. If you're sure soldering will work I have access to a kit.
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October 10th, 2010, 09:13
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#13 |
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This paper presents a normal air-gun array by comparing the performance parameter and theory of several air-gun source.
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