Question about lubrication spring rifles

[SlippGun]

Sorry if this has been asked before, but I was finding stuff to do with GBBs.

Anyway, my situation is this, I stripped my Well L96 (Maruzen L96 clone) down, and I am going to lubricate the bolt, and what I would assume is referred to as the cylinder.

So, the question is: What should I use to lubricate it? I've heard not to use WD-40, and I'm not too sure as to if I should use silicone oil or not.

If anyone would be able to help me as to what I should use for lubricating the bolt of my sniper's rifle, would be a great help.

-SlippGun

[Sportco]

Wd-40 and any lubricant with petroleum distilate in them can adversely effect o-rings and some plastic parts...

Dont have any experience with that specific weapon but... you can use 60 weight pure silicone oil (just dont touch the inside surface with your bare hands has the oil secreted by your body is somewhat corrosive to brass (if that what your cylinder is made of).... That why most aeg cylinders have finger prints heacht into them!!

You can purchase the oil from any hobbyshop selling remote control race car (it's suspension shock oil)

Put on a nitrile glove put some oil on the middle finger and coat the whole surface to your personnal licking...

Curious to see what kind of flack i'm going the draw from John, Paul and Ringo!!

Cheers,

Pete

[coach]

Heavier weight silly oil is okay but it can seep over time and make it's way through the cracks and then get all over the outside. Nothing wrong with using it.

You can also use white lithium grease on the bolt. Juggles at airsoftparts also sell a bunch of greases safe to use.

[SlippGun]

Ah, thanks guys, that helped for clearing that up. I will go pick some of that up tomorrow.

One more question though, what is a nitrile glove? Would that be like a surgical glove?

[CDN_Stalker]

You are talking about the inside of the bolt, right? Grease is what you want. White lithium will get gooey/sticky after a while (like a year), so you'll have to open it up, wash with dishsoap and warm water, then relube. I used to use it then went with Gunslick's Anhydrous Graphite lube, works great (especially on GBB slide rails), and is cheap (but hard to find). AEG gearbox lube, like teflon grease or silicon grease, is pretty much the best you can go with.

And just because I asked, don't grease the outside of your bolt, it'll collect dirst, sand, bits of cedar leaf, etc. and bugger up your action. Others have asked about this (which is why I brought it up), and I tried it myself once, is just a big don't do. Spray it with a dry lube such as dry graphite or teflon spray, or even just rub a big pencil lead all over it.

[coach]

Originally Posted by CDN_Stalker

White lithium will get gooey/sticky after a while (like a year), so you'll have to open it up, wash with dishsoap and warm water, then relube.

ah crap, you're right but a year is a long time not to have opened it up to serviced the BA. Depending on use and where it's used, I'd expect more regular maintenance which makes the grease easier to clean off with a rag.

I use white lithium grease on the car and only thought being exposed to the elements that it dries up and goes gooey. Time to get me a tube of Super Lube or the Ultra Slick. Will also try to source some Gunslick's Anhydrous Graphite lube

[SlippGun]

Well, what I am lubricating right now is the bolt. Meaining, the outside of the long cylinder that attaches to the bolt handle, with the cylinder head at the opposite end.

So, would I lubricate that or no?

Also, I haven't done this yet, but should I get inside to where the spring and spring guide are to give that a good cleaning? Main reason I haven't done that yet is I can't figure out how to get in :P

[CDN_Stalker]

Originally Posted by SlippGun

Well, what I am lubricating right now is the bolt. Meaining, the outside of the long cylinder that attaches to the bolt handle, with the cylinder head at the opposite end.

So, would I lubricate that or no?

Also, I haven't done this yet, but should I get inside to where the spring and spring guide are to give that a good cleaning? Main reason I haven't done that yet is I can't figure out how to get in :P

No, don't lube the outside of the cylinder unless you use a dry lube. And if it's feeling gritty when you cock it, lube likely won't do anything, either you have dirt in there (clean it) or there are burrs, in which case you'd have to use a file/sandpaper/etc. to clean it up.

Inside, yes, I do mine about twice per year, but my rifle used to be used numerous times per game (was about every two weeks I'd play, and have the rifle on me constantly, often shooting up to 100rds per game). Not so much now though, more because I've lost interest in playing, but anyone that uses their rifle more than maybe 100 rounds per month should take the 10mins to open up, clean, relube, reassemble.

Not sure about that rifle, but typically the nozzle unscrews from the cylinder. Mine I have to use a wrench (adjustable) to hold the nozzle and I just unscrew it from there and take the piston/spring/guide out.

[Amos]

Originally Posted by CDN_Stalker

No, don't lube the outside of the cylinder unless you use a dry lube. And if it's feeling gritty when you cock it, lube likely won't do anything, either you have dirt in there (clean it) or there are burrs, in which case you'd have to use a file/sandpaper/etc. to clean it up.

I disagree with you on lubricating the outside of the bolt, I found on my VSR-10 the addition of Molydebnum grease to the exterior of the bolt improved lock-up time by quite a bit and made everything MUCH smoother (and quieter) over all.

Again -- It depends on the play area... if I use my VSR in a sandy area, a piece of guntape goes over the ejection port, but I don't find it collects dirt nearly as much as people say it does.

[CDN_Stalker]

I went by experience, and my rifle does get all kinds of crap on the outside of the cylinder which ends up in the receiver. All depends on how one plays vs another in the end. Mine would collect all I pointed out above, including burlap hairs, little peices of tree crap and such, and if I went the route you did with duct tape, I'd have to keep it on all the time. I prefer either clean and dry (because I have some play on mine, maybe that's why your method is different than mine, VSR vs. M24), or sprayed with dry lube such as graphite or teflon. Disagreement is fine, both of us have covered both ends of the spectrum enough that other can try out what might work for them or not.