Lipo Problem

[CJay]

Yeah but that's a 20c :P and I doubt it's as good as a Hyperion battery. I know the hyperions are expensive but they are really a couple cuts better than most of the others. U don't need exceptional quality but if u can afford it why not?!

I was a little tempted to buy the 130 buck 6000mah 14.7v 35C one they had. Then I remembered it's going in a cheap toy gun and it'd most likely destroy it haha.

[ThunderCactus]

What's the point of getting a 35C battery if your motor only draws 8A?
A 20C 4900mah battery supplies over 90A continuous draw! lol

[Lucuis]

Peak current draw can be a lot higher then that. It's better to have an overkill power source. 90A continuous is pretty insane but w/e.

http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=51831

[ThunderCactus]

90A is more than 10x what a stock airsoft gun needs lol
I can run my fully upgraded M4 with a G&P M140 off a 1.5A 15C, that's 24A continuous. That 24A was also more than enough to use a new systema magnum motor that drew 12A and was shorting (due to the fact the poles aren't insulated from eachother).
People run systema PTWs off of a 1.1A 15C batt, that's a mere 16.5A

6A at 35c, that's 210A. That's enough to start my motorcycle lol

Anyway, it IS recommended in the noob LiPo thread that you use a fuse with your LiPo setup for safety, because the MOSFET won't protect from over-current draw.

[liquidgenesis]

Originally Posted by Adamlxlx

Smart chargers are garbage for lipo. Get a delta peak detection lipo charger/balancer. It will give you many charging options IE: lipo charge, lipo balance, lipo storage etc....
It should not take that long unless you are charging it at like 0.1amp. What rate are you charging it at? How many amps?

Umm... delta peak detection is a NiCd/NiMh mode to prevent overcharging. Lipo uses CC/CV charging. If you ever charge Lipo in delta peak mode, your house WILL go up in flames. DO NOT DO THIS.

[CJay]

Originally Posted by ThunderCactus

90A is more than 10x what a stock airsoft gun needs lol
I can run my fully upgraded M4 with a G&P M140 off a 1.5A 15C, that's 24A continuous. That 24A was also more than enough to use a new systema magnum motor that drew 12A and was shorting (due to the fact the poles aren't insulated from eachother).
People run systema PTWs off of a 1.1A 15C batt, that's a mere 16.5A

6A at 35c, that's 210A. That's enough to start my motorcycle lol

Anyway, it IS recommended in the noob LiPo thread that you use a fuse with your LiPo setup for safety, because the MOSFET won't protect from over-current draw.

Hey I'm not saying it is a fantastic idea but I do use the 35c batteries all the time and get an absolutely amazing trigger response and rof on my dmr with an m150 when compared with the same brand battery of 20c. Either way I doubt that what ur saying is 100% correct. I've had 50amp fuses blow on my lipo setup. I'm no electrical engineer but surely the variables when combined mean that some guns draw huge peak currents. Like I said I'm not an expert but evidence shows an 11.1 20c lipo won't push my spring as well as a 35c 11.1 same brand. Both treated very well and maintained flawlessly. Also don't get me started on 15c lipos. Maybe for small spring setups they work but buffer tube batteries at 15c are useless as far as I can tell for a high fps setup.

Why lol?

[ThunderCactus]

What kind of motor are you running?
If you can see a difference between 20c and 35c, either the internal resistance of the packs is significantly different, or you're drawing so much amperage that something is seriously wrong with your motor lol

If your motor is arcing or damaged, or a systema magnum, it will draw well over 20A continuously under load, and peak at well over 50A. Running a magnum without the insulation mod is effectively shorting your electrical system on purpose lol

I've run LiPos with triggermaster units, so the amount of current being used has to be fairly low otherwise the comp overheats and shuts off fairly quickly. That's how I learned not to ever used a stock magnum motor with an SW-COMP, you can overheat it in less than a mag lol

When I get the chance, I'll test a few LiPos, 11.1 at various C ratings, and of various companies, and I'll find out how much amperage my 249 is drawing, although I'm certain is really low since it's ridiculously efficient.

Pretty sure what your seeing is just a difference in internal resistance. The C rating is your max amperage draw, so if your gun draws 12A, whether you have a 20A max or 200A max, it still only draws 12 and should have the same RoF. But just like upgrading your wiring, if there's less resistance in the pack, there's more power available. Agree?

[LocoYokoPoco]

Omg, I hope this isn't the charger you have:
Amazon.com: Tenergy Smart Universal Charger for NiMH / NiCd Battery pack 7.2V - 12V with charging current Selection/Temperature Sensor: Electronics

That charger isn't suppose to charge LiPo batteries....

[horto]

Originally Posted by LocoYokoPoco

Omg, I hope this isn't the charger you have:
Amazon.com: Tenergy Smart Universal Charger for NiMH / NiCd Battery pack 7.2V - 12V with charging current Selection/Temperature Sensor: Electronics

That charger isn't suppose to charge LiPo batteries....

lol, yeah, good point... OP, were you using a lipo charger? did you have the balance lead connected?

[kalnaren]

Originally Posted by ThunderCactus

FYI bought the 11.1v 20C 4900mah LiPo for my M249 for just $50 off hobbyking

I lovee hobbyking lipos. Use them in my planes. Every now and then you get a dead one but considering you can get 3 or 4 of them for 1 in North America you still save.

[Mandalore]

Originally Posted by horto

lol, yeah, good point... OP, were you using a lipo charger? did you have the balance lead connected?

Yes I was using a lipo charger, and not that other one lol. It's not that big a deal, I've picked up some other lipos from hobby king already!

[kalnaren]

Any decent smart charger should be able to tell you the voltage levels of the cells as well. Make sure it can read all of them.

[ThunderCactus]

iMAX B6!

[CJay]

thunder i'm running a TM EG 30000 on my current setup along with an AWS raptor version 2... the raptor has all the protection set up on it so as far as overcurrent it's defo not doing that... trust me i'd know if there were a problem as I'm a gundoc myself but i have very little interest in learning the ins and outs of electronics unfortunately - at any rate like i said even with the raptor installed my hyperion 35c's are better than my hyperion 20-25c's same voltage etc. must admit it does seem weird but been running that setup since the raptor was released a couple months back at least and still goin strong.

I'm gonna put it down to weird airsoft shit goin down in my motor - but i get same result with a systema standard torque and a tm eg1000 and a tm eg30000.

Who knows...

[LocoYokoPoco]

Originally Posted by ThunderCactus

90A is more than 10x what a stock airsoft gun needs lol
I can run my fully upgraded M4 with a G&P M140 off a 1.5A 15C, that's 24A continuous. That 24A was also more than enough to use a new systema magnum motor that drew 12A and was shorting (due to the fact the poles aren't insulated from eachother).
People run systema PTWs off of a 1.1A 15C batt, that's a mere 16.5A

6A at 35c, that's 210A. That's enough to start my motorcycle lol

Anyway, it IS recommended in the noob LiPo thread that you use a fuse with your LiPo setup for safety, because the MOSFET won't protect from over-current draw.

Actually, some high end motors draw as much as 200 amps rush current. Average motors draw about 50 amps continuous, depending on spring. (High load = higher current draw). The difference between a 15C and 30C batteries is quite significant, especially for trigger response in semi auto. I personally used nothing less than 1600mAH 25C lipos in my DMR setup.

And @ CJay, MOSFETs by themselves usually don't have any over-current protection, it usually involves another circuit.. In the AWS, the micro controller is likely to have all the safety features built in.