stock g&p m4 first upgrade ideas
 

Hey so I have a g&p which hasn't been fielded yet due to fps, looking to swap to a m90 to allow winter time indoor cqb goodness. I want to do an initial upgrade along with the new spring, nothing crazy as I'm running the stock gearbox until it shits the bed.
Planning on throwing in a Prometheus bridge hop up tensioner http://www.airsoftstore.ca/index.php...roducts_id=179 paired with a lonex 50d bucking. http://www.airsoftstore.ca/index.php...products_id=78
And a sorob pad http://www.airsoftstore.ca/index.php...&products_id=7 just wondering if I should up to a 70 or grab a neo aswell,, maybe make the jump to a p.o.m piston head? If absolutely necessary?
Just ideas from a noob needing advice, sound good? Sound bad? Not trying to upgrade the gearbox yet as would rather just throw in a full lonex when the stock g&p eats shit.

Any suggestions or insight greatly appreciated

tightbore barrel and you should be good to go.

I wouldn't waste your time on the sorbo pad or the hopup changes or any of the other changes except the spring.

If you're not running 11.1V LiPos and you're playing indoors on semi-auto only, you will not need the sorbo pad. Correcting AoE isn't as urgent when you're not running a high powered setup at a high RoF.

If you're only playing indoors, you will not need any changes to your hopup. The stock G&P stuff is actually perfectly fine.

In other words, you don't really need to change anything except for the spring. With an M90 spring in there, you might also luck out and not have a trademark G&P gear failure for a long time.

Hope that helps

I disagree. The G&P stock barrel is a tightbore and is actually quite good. OP doesn't really need to spend money on barrels. Even when outdoor play resumes, the stock G&P barrels are fine and benefit more from a bucking+nub replacement than a full barrel swap.

macieka since I'm planning on playing outdoor come spring, does it really not make sense to do all of that listed at once as opposed to waiting till spring, and then installing the accuracy and integrity upgrades listed?
Additionally I was only planning on a sorob just as a buffer to try and prolong my gears as long as possible? Or do they only effect the piston assembly?

There are 2 approaches to this. If you're going to want to only open it ONCE and only once, then by all means replace things that you anticipate breaking. On the flip side, personally I recommend replacing things as they break so you get your moneys worth. Why in the world, as a retailer, would I recommend that? Because I've been in the same shoes as you and throwing money at problems doesn't help you learn.

I have to disagree with Maciek on the AoE corrections:
If you're opening up the mechbox, check the AoE and correct as necessary. Hot spring or M90, it should always be corrected either via the sorbo+neo or nylon washers on the piston head. If your AoE is bad, it'll just shorten the lifespan of your piston.

You don't *need* the POM piston head until your stock one breaks. The G&P one is pretty decent.

G&P barrels I find have been pretty bad - inconsistent is the word. It's like they just buy whatever brass tube is for sale that week at the metal mart. Sometimes you get a winner, other times it's horrible. Upgrade the hop-up rubber. From experience, you'll see the most gains from that and it's half the cost of a barrel.

Lastly, grab one of our lipos for some good trigger response indoors. Look at motor upgrades when you're ready as the G&P M120 motor is quite slow to wind up.

I may have some bad news. We aren't able to get the Prometheus bridge nubs until Jan/Feb due to a supply shortage.

I recommend the PDI W Hold in the meantime.

Hey stealth, were those GensAce batteries the ones you were talking about doing testing on? Are they that much better than the nanotechs? Too bad I just bought 4 of them though but that said, having more batteries never really hurt anyone....

Already running a 7.4 v Lipo, and the trigger response is zippy enough as is, the accuracy is actually pretty Damn stellar stock, so I don't forsee a barrel change unless I extend it and run it inside a silencer, but that's later like when I have a cqb primary aswell, thanks stealth!

I sorbo all my guns that I open up... it's 5 bucks and 5 minutes with the glue and dremel to take the necessary teeth off.


Of course, if you don't have a rotary tool, it sort of makes it difficult to do so quickly, in that case, do what you can.

I'm a big proponent to not fixing something if it isn't broke, so AoE and shimming is really the only thing I would do while you're in there doing a spring swap. Or running it until you feel you have an idea of where to go with it after you know what you have and what you want/need.

If you're running a 7.4 lipo, it shouldn't be too bad on wear, and fixing the aoe now can extend the life of your piston if it isn't a metal tooth one.

[QUOTE=MaciekA;1733242]I disagree. The G&P stock barrel is a tightbore and is actually quite good. OP doesn't really need to spend money on barrels. Even when outdoor play resumes, the stock G&P barrels are fine and benefit more from a bucking+nub replacement than a full barrel swap.[/QUOTE

So your saying G&P 6.08 barrels are good?

Well we did testing head-to-head testing last night and analyzing the data now.

But for now all I can say is that the 11.1v 20C small stick battery is as good, if not better than the Nanotech 11.1v 25C 1300 long stick. Did 39rps @ 400+fps on John's G36c.

More details later.

The reason I'm hesitant to upgrade the motor, or use a 11.1v is I want to prolong gear changing/ purchasing to a mosfet (which my phone tried to autocorrect to midget!)
Until either my trigger connection goes or I'm also putting in a full new gb assembly/ motor. Was only considering those upgrades as they are minimal, and aimed simply at accuracy and slightly prolonging longevity of the stock components.
When that happens ill be throwing in one of your full lonex gearboxes with a fancy omega motor and then a mosfet and larger Lipo, which will all be purchased for you haha so I appreciate the help I'm already getting and see the need for a lot more on the roadto come as a completely new player who has never even been to a game let alone played.
It's been almost 3 weeks that my av has been pending, I keep telling myself;... Any day now...

As we all talk about the tight bore barrels and have NO proof of them actually working any better/worse than a stock, we are aware they are making WIDE BORE barrels now. Right?

6.23mm inner diameter


http://orga-airsoft.com/products-pag...re-barrel-aeg/

Wait so a tightbore barrel doesn't increase accuracy? I would have thought having less room to bounce around would naturally increase accuracy. Which is my rationale for getting the bridge tensioner is it looks like it manages to force bb's through a more guided path, resulting in less room for discrepancies in flight dynamics and ultimately equating to better shot to shot consistency.
Or am I completely over analyzing this and actually don't understand at all?
Sigh.. I wish I had friends who played airsoft.

I think the idea behind a wider barrel is that there's a cushion of air around the BB, so that it doesn't hit the barrel, thus destabilizing it.

Obviously it's very inefficient with the air though.

ALL theory and debated all over the god damn place.

Seems like this is still in its early stages as to fact finding.

I think you are going to see this on MythBusters before we find out the truth.

Not that I was even considering upgrading that...yet. But Which is more accurate then? Widebore tightbore or just normal Hahaha.. both conflicting concepts make sense... But where's the science!? I know one of you knows! Obviously there's a huge drop in fps using a widebore but approx what is that #?

Here is my 2 sense from a guy running a field and who has now seen hundreds of guns and watched the range of guys of the ones who are ALWAYS farting around to the ones who don’t touch it.

I have seen guys drive 45 minutes to our field, get out of car, and go to chrono and watch the gun fail. Get back in car and drive home.(or to the store to get parts)

DO NOT TOUCH YOUR GUN TILL YOU NEED TO

Change spring, close gun...move on.

I have seen guys go from stock, to crazy hopped up and back to stock in like 6 games.

Use the gun for a period of time and scope around, ask others etc. But to just go at in my opinion is not a good plan.

Wait for the problem to come to you. That’s if one even exists.

And this G&P you see here is still running the stock barrel and seen a shit load of hours. The wear on the reviever is not camera flash or man made fake wear. Its real hours. Let her ride.....change spring, and fill it up with some good synthetic grease.

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/57165679/Ha...1204-00048.jpg

If you see my original post I never really wanted to change the barrel that's something others brought up that doesn't concern me in the slightest. I appreciate the guidance though, if you don't mind me asking what alterations have had to been made to your g&p internally speaking.. what's failed, what's still kicking?
Where should I grease?

Ok! now we are talking!!!1

Drum roll please................

S...E....C....T.....O.....R..... G......E.....A.......R.

Thats it.

Get a spare sector gear (and O ring) thats a given.


You bought a G&P, not a canadian tire special. Drive it and smile. My prediction is 6 months from now this will be your "spare" and you will be onto another gun.

Remember, as this progresses, you WILL need a "go to" gun. The one that does not piss you off and shoots every time.

I remember being in a game when Maddog was next to me having troubles with one of his AKs. He said, "oh well, been 2 years, maybe time to crack it open".

And he is not a chairsofter.

This puppy had miles on it.

My G&P (SOPMOD):

- Gears to Element Helical (Highly recommend the "Core 13:1" gearset for $20 unless you want to go Lonex 16:1 for $50).
- Bucking to Systema then now to a Guarder Black (because last one got torn and the Guarder was what was available), might as well go Lonex for this as well, I'd do the "50 degree" sleeve.
- Barrel to Guarder 6.02 (again, what was available to me, judging by how good Lonex is for the price I'd go Lonex 363mm as well)
- Spring to Modify S110+ (again what was available, Lonex M110SP if outdoor, if indoor get like an M90 or something). Remember FPS is a limit not a goal 380-400 on .20's is fine, hell I was running like 360 FPS (AND using .25's) for the longest time so like 320 FPS on .25's. If you've ever played paintball, those guns only shoot at like 260-270 FPS (using .65 cal paintballs which are like 2-3 grams at most).

That's about it and the only reason those parts in my G&P replaced was because they were broken or torn or worn out or whatever. Although the barrel replacement was just a "while I was in the gearbox/front end assy. I might as well do the barrel and bucking at the same time".

Especially those gears.... although I think I had mine last like 1000 rounds before they decided to shear off but they usually eventually do (which is kind of sad for a company that make such good externals TBH).

what i did is that upgraded the hopup so that it has a new hopup rubber and tightbore barrel. thats pretty much all you need... aside from some accessories.