FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

[TaroBear]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

That slide isn't capable of taking a straight barrel and barrel bushing.

If you want to use a straight barrel, you'll need to go with a different slide - ideally, a completely different brand, as the SD ones use a proprietary setup.

I guess I'll just have to let go of the barrel bushing. As of yet, I've spent hours looking through every possible source for slides that look like that one, and I've only found one other slide that looks exactly like it. That one has horribly ugly integrated rear sights though, so I decided I have to stick to this one.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by TaroBear

I guess I'll just have to let go of the barrel bushing. As of yet, I've spent hours looking through every possible source for slides that look like that one, and I've only found one other slide that looks exactly like it. That one has horribly ugly integrated rear sights though, so I decided I have to stick to this one.

What is it about that slide that you want? The 2-tone finish? Or the V12 compensator port cuts?

[TaroBear]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

What is it about that slide that you want? The 2-tone finish? Or the V12 compensator port cuts?

The two-tone finish, and forward serrations. But most importantly, there aren't all that many Hi Capa slides I've found that resemble 1911 slides, and this is one of them. Most Hi Capa slides I can find are rather square at the sides. On this slide, right where the silver meets the black on the top of the slide, the edge is smoothed. Most Capa slides I've seen are rather square there. I like the smoothed off edges look, something 1911 slides do and Hi Capa slides don't. The Springfield markings aren't particularly important to me, just the finish and the edges. I can't seem to find any 1911 slides that meet these requirements either, so that's why I want this particular slide.

Here's another view of this slide.



Here's a different slide, taken from IK. Looks like an Xtreme slide.



The edges on this slide are square.

[ILLusion]

You obviously haven't looked at the ILLusion Kinetics slides, then...



Fits standard Tokyo Marui 1911 spec barrel bushings and outer barrels... and has a round top, despite being made for the Hi-Capa platform.

PS, your IK image thread doesn't work. Don't hotlink from pbase by right-clicking and copying the link. It doesn't work that way. Just use the URL of the page itself, and add /original.jpg to the end of the link.

[TaroBear]

Edit:Sweet. That means I'll just need some sights, then?

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by TaroBear

Sweet. Can I use a straight barrel with that one?

Originally Posted by ILLusion

Fits standard Tokyo Marui 1911 spec barrel bushings and outer barrels... and has a round top, despite being made for the Hi-Capa platform.

You can't use the SD Hi-Capa straight barrel. It has to be Marui spec, such as the ILLusion Kinetics barrel, or one of the many other barrels out there meant specifically for use with the TM 1911/MEU. I can only recommend using the IK barrel with this slide set, though. Mixing and matching slide/barrel brands may give cycling issues unless modifications are performed.

[e-luder]

Hey guys,

I apologize if this seems to be a noob question but I've scoured this thread for some time for the answer.

Just got my first hi-capa 4.3 (the FMU dual stainless steel one from WE Tech) and have changed the slide to a Guarder Springfield slide. The internals have been somewhat upgraded too just with the Airsoft Surgeon internal kit (springs, nozzle, piston head). I've also put in all the usual valve upgrades (hi-flos and the valve inside the loading nozzle (forget what it's called))

Anyways, i was test firing the the weapon with the new slide just now and I noticed the slide was being shortstroked somehow. I have no buffers on the guide rod. I filed the some of the notches on the frame to allow for a better smoother cycle. But the slide catch doesn't seem to catch at all when the mag is empty. I lubed all contact points and dryfired the gun, and even on full tank, the slide catch doesn't work.

So i'm wondering, could this be a simple fitting issue (barrel, BBU, slide, anything)? Or is the recoil spring simply too strong (it's 150%)? Even with all the higher airflow valves installed, should this still occur?

Sorry again, if this seems like a noob question.

[e-luder]

Sweet!!!
Thank you very much!!!

[ILLusion]

Sorry, I was thinking about something else.

The spring is just very strong for a 4.3 due to the light weight of the shorter 4.3 slide. Clipping coils will reduce the strength, which would slow down the slide cycling speed and allow the slide catch to have time to lock up.

[e-luder]

Hmm.

SO overall, if i wanted to keep a consistent slide lock, i would have to downgrade or cut to a weaker spring? Not that it's important, but is there a way to keep them both (the spring and slide catch) functioning properly? If the slide catch is there, might as well function right? My stock springs are too sluggish for the the metal slide.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by e-luder

Hmm.

SO overall, if i wanted to keep a consistent slide lock, i would have to downgrade or cut to a weaker spring? Not that it's important, but is there a way to keep them both (the spring and slide catch) functioning properly? If the slide catch is there, might as well function right? My stock springs are too sluggish for the the metal slide.

You have to realize that the Airsoft Surgeon recoil spring is one of the strongest on the market. I only use it for 5.1 slides, because it causes the 4.3 slides to recoil extremely fast (besides the fact that it sucks up a lot more gas.)

Actually, just checking now, the 4.3's shorter recoil rod does cause the Airsoft Surgeon spring to bind up faster, and it does short stroke it a bit. Sorry, it's been a while since I used that spring on a 4.3, because I'd remembered there were some problems with it. The specifics were just hazy till I tried it now.

Clip it, or change to a different spring. I personally like the Guarder 150% springs for Hi-Capa 4.3.

[e-luder]

Guarder Spring it is!!
Thanks alot, ILLusion.

On a separate Note, my stock outer barrel just fell off. And it keeps coming off. Like the threads on the chamber aren't holding it in place anymore. I didn't even touch it or anything. I can't afford to buy a new outer barrel/chamber at the moment. so for now, i'm just sticking to quick fixes.

Can i just loctite this thing back together? Is the kick or slide returning to battery too strong that it blows the outer barrel right off?

Again, I apologize if I'm being a total noob.

[Armen000]

Hey guys just read most of this thread, but i dont think anyone has the same problem im currently having, so here we go :P

I just recently got a brand new KJW KP-06 and i absolutely love it, its one of my favorite sidearms just because of its power, recoil, and quality. (yes quality, its a very nice piece for the price)

So heres the problem and i can already tell you guys it originates from the valve bulb in the loading nozzle. The problem is that when i dry fire the gun it cycles just great with amazing recoil (resembling a .22), then when i try shooting it with bb's (ICS .25G Bio bb's) It still fires (320FPS) but the recoil is severly reduced and the gun struggles to make a full cycle. I put in a WE stock bulb in the gun and it functioned great but the downside of that bulb was that i only got 275FPS out of it so what do you guys think? BTW im using the stock KJW bulb.

Non Stock parts include:
Falcon 162.5mm 6.03mm Barrel

UPDATE:
alright so quick update, i took apart the hop up chamber, gave everything a good cleaning, re-adjusted the hop rubber to sit higher in the barrel (I.E. hop up turned down) and it definitely helped! however the difference in recoil is still noticeable, also one more thing to add from hop up being halfway on (320FPS) and hop up being turned down to about 1/8-1/4 way (310FPS) this concept in gas guns might not be clear cut, but my explanation is that, having less available area (hop up turned up) will increase pressure in the barrel thus resulting in a +10FPS rather than a 10FPS reduction, can anyone confirm this?


Update:
so i wasnt able to exactly pinpoint the problem i guess, because when i changed the KJW nozzle to a WE Stock nozzle + KJW Bulb, and stock WE piston head, it still had the same problem. So then i swapped out the KJW bulb for the WE Stock bulb and i guess it was a success! kick was reduced by 5-10% but instead of shooting 275FPS W/.25G, its shooting the 320FPS it was before i had this problem! So in short i swapped out the stock nozzle, bulb, and piston head of the KJW for stock WE parts.so to all KJW users i strongly suggest you swap out your stock bulbs for high flow bulbs or stock WE/TM bulbs!
BTW the stock KJW bulb i am reffering to is the blue plastic one with the crossed opening

[pippin65]

just bought my tm 5.1--it's somewhere on its way to me now!! I've read this topic till I got a headache and have just 2 questions.
1) is this the grease that illusion is referring to Amazon.com: Loctite 82325 3oz; super lube tb [PRICE is per TUBE]: Automotive
or will it work?
2) can I just run green gas out of the box? I purchased some 134a at evike but think I would want the extra "oomph" of green gas. or are there simple, cheap mods I need to do first? I have the 5.1 and a second tm mag on the way.

[e-luder]

2) can I just run green gas out of the box? I purchased some 134a at evike but think I would want the extra "oomph" of green gas. or are there simple, cheap mods I need to do first? I have the 5.1 and a second tm mag on the way.

My Take:

TM's are generally used in conjunction with duster for longevity. But everyone says that it can handle green just fine.

But i wouldn't recommend it with a stock slide.
Would recommend upgrading some of the internals and upgrading the slide to a metal one to handle the higher pressure gas like GG.

My friend's TM 5.1 had a stock plastic slide and was using green gas. After a game or two, the slide broke. But you know, his might be one in the few that may be defective or something