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FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

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Old November 18th, 2011, 01:26   #1366
anthon
 
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Does anyone know if the pachmayr, American Legend grips will fit my 1911 MEU. I wanted something with wood, and this was a nice looking alternative. Will the center piece that connects to both sides fit?

http://www.pachmayr.com/home/american-legend-grips.php


Any other suggestions on grips (rubber or wood) is apreciated
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Old November 18th, 2011, 01:34   #1367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anthon View Post
Does anyone know if the pachmayr, American Legend grips will fit my 1911 MEU. I wanted something with wood, and this was a nice looking alternative. Will the center piece that connects to both sides fit?

http://www.pachmayr.com/home/american-legend-grips.php


Any other suggestions on grips (rubber or wood) is apreciated
I've been looking into grips, myself. If it's a Marui, it'll fit real steel grips, but probably not with the grip weights inside. The only options for grips that'll work with the weights are those Ready Fighter Operator and Alien ones. Dytac has a few supremely ugly ones out there, but they're rarely in stock. Otherwise you could look into standard 1911 grips. Again, you have to make sure they fit with the weights before you buy. If you'd really like a set of real steel grips, I bet some sanding or dremmel work on the inside (if they're thick enough) might work. I've yet to confirm this.
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Old November 18th, 2011, 02:09   #1368
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If you buy the Pachmayr rubber-type grip(Signature), they are weighed grip....

American Legend is not though.
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Old November 18th, 2011, 11:10   #1369
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Originally Posted by RacingManiac View Post
If you buy the Pachmayr rubber-type grip(Signature), they are weighed grip....

American Legend is not though.

It ink it is, on the page it says the grip weighs 6oz, which is even heavier then the signature. I just wanted to know if it will
, or should fit
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Old November 21st, 2011, 00:29   #1370
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Does anyone know a manual or guide to install the Airsoft Surgeon 5.1 frames? Im having difficulty installing the hammer, sear as well as the little spring that pushes the valve knocker. Thanks
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Old November 21st, 2011, 14:27   #1371
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Originally Posted by TaroBear View Post
Are 5KU external parts any good? I'm going to assume they aren't, because they're way cheaper than anything else on the market.

Edit: Nevermind. I got a close look at some of them. They have horrendous finish, it looks like.
They're crap.

You get what you pay for. Some of the very basic stuff is okay, but overall, the finish and fitment is bad.

On a tight budget, their slide/barrel/comp setups aren't too horrendous now. Their first iterations were brutal.
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Old November 21st, 2011, 19:37   #1372
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Hey Brian, i got a 5KU frame that assembles just like the Airsoft Surgeon. There are two pins that seem to hold everything in the hammer assembly. Im guessing one of the pins is supposed to hold the sear in place? However, the pin sticks out ALOT since the sear already has its own pin
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Old November 24th, 2011, 10:13   #1373
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Does anyone know where I can find TM 1911 mags in stock in canada? Looking to buy 2...silver or black.
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Old November 24th, 2011, 14:12   #1374
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Extended or standard length? I have silver (MEU) mags here, and I think I may have a black one around here somewhere as well... anyways, this thread isn't the place for a buy & sell. Take it to PM if you want to proceed.
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Old November 24th, 2011, 14:16   #1375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turok_t View Post
Hey Brian, i got a 5KU frame that assembles just like the Airsoft Surgeon. There are two pins that seem to hold everything in the hammer assembly. Im guessing one of the pins is supposed to hold the sear in place? However, the pin sticks out ALOT since the sear already has its own pin
Are you using a hammer set with the frame? From one of those hammer set, the only part you can use is the hammer and the hammer strut. You have to use the sear and the striker in the frame....

That is, with the normal ProG4/IK/AS frame, 5KU being a copy, not sure what comes with those...
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Old December 14th, 2011, 23:38   #1376
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http://www.boomarms.com/shop/item.cf.../curr_code/USD

New product...I am assuming for Hi-Capa you just need to cut the guide post off...

Why brass though?
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Old December 15th, 2011, 01:43   #1377
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Not *too* new... they've been out for a few months now. I just installed 3 of them today.

They're built very nice - typical Nova CNC machining quality. Surface finish looks like it's acid etched for hardening, so it's not exactly a smooth/polished surface. It's more like micro-rough (like a chalk board). Not sure how to describe it at this point. I have a load of turkey making its way through my arteries at the moment...

You're right, the guide post needs to be chopped off to fit Hi-Capa.

Disappointing that they STILL don't come with the damn adjustment dial and hop up lever arm... is it so hard to ask for those two final parts to FINALLY be able to build a Hi-Capa from scratch using all parts available off the shelf?! FACK!


As for "why brass", I'm assuming it's for ease of machining. Brass is one of the easiest materials to work with. Lower machining effort = lower cost to the end user. Because it's not a part that has direct user contact or cosmetic appeal, brass can function just fine as the parts. Weight is not a concern, and neither is toughness. Also, because it's more malleable, I noticed it held the screws in MUCH tighter than the Marui hop up chamber (or that any aluminum hop up chamber could, for that matter.)

Overall, I'm happy with the item. The price is on the high side, but I'm sure it would be easily double that (if not triple) if it were machined from stainless steel. Considering the complexity of the part (there are a lot of relief cuts inside), I think brass is a suitable material.

Last edited by ILLusion; December 15th, 2011 at 01:46..
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Old December 15th, 2011, 09:40   #1378
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Aside from scratch builder though, what advantage does it buy you for swapping the hop-up chamber?
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Old December 15th, 2011, 09:57   #1379
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Certainly ease of machining...although chunks of brass are pretty tough, any inside corners on thin pieces might be a worry. Brass is pretty brittle all in all. Radius'd corners go a long way.

Illusion...I'm guessing that they're holding up well enough though with some of the more energetic builds w/ heavier slides?

And never discount the bling factor...at least it's visible when you field strip (Unlike blue/red/gold anodized cylinder/piston heads )
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Old December 15th, 2011, 13:21   #1380
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Aside from scratch builder though, what advantage does it buy you for swapping the hop-up chamber?
That little flash of gold when you rack your slide back? LOL.

More seriously, I think it's just a part replacement, as stock hop up chambers do have a tendency to wear out after hundreds of thousands of rounds when used in combination with metal outer barrels. Or should the user strip the threads.

Beyond that, I haven't found any amazing benefit from this, except that the screws hold the shell halves together REALLY TIGHT, which is good, because I've noticed that some hop up rubbers tend to push the halves apart as the gun is used, and vibration/shaking has a tendency to loosen the screws under this expansion pressure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by m102404 View Post
Certainly ease of machining...although chunks of brass are pretty tough, any inside corners on thin pieces might be a worry. Brass is pretty brittle all in all. Radius'd corners go a long way.

Illusion...I'm guessing that they're holding up well enough though with some of the more energetic builds w/ heavier slides?

And never discount the bling factor...at least it's visible when you field strip (Unlike blue/red/gold anodized cylinder/piston heads )
All thin pieces are radius'd, which is a really nice touch, and why I'd mentioned the internal relief cuts.

I don't know how well it'll hold up, as I'd just installed it yesterday, and only had a chance to put 2 mags through it. I can definitely keep readers posted with my findings as I use this more.

One issue that I HAVE noticed, is that this thing has sharp edges as a result of the machining. Not in a sharp and jagged serrated sort of way. The edges are clean. In fact, they're VERY CLEAN, typical of a milled product, but this also means that the edges are sharp, even at a 90 degree bend. This results in BB's being "shaved" as it's pushed up the feed ramp. Shooting through a mag yields a bunch of polystyrene shavings inside the chamber and on the mag's feed lips... for precision shooting, this is not ideal, as it does affect your ammunition.

Last edited by ILLusion; December 15th, 2011 at 13:27..
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