FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

[RacingManiac]

Originally Posted by intinerious

Nice pics :P Anyway thanks for sharing

Hey another question I want to ask is have anyone used the steel trigger bows that ProG4 makes for the 1911? With the 1911 platform I find that the stock marui trigger bow is a tad too short and as such there is a ~0.5mm bit of slack on the trigger compared to the almost no slack on the TM hicapas.

I was wondering whether the steel trigger bows are a bit longer to remove the trigger slack and if they aren't; have anyone found a way to do so? I was thinking of supergluing a cut-up piece of credit card plastic the same length and width of the rear part of the trigger bow and from my initial testing (without the glue) it seems to work. I didn't superglue it at the end because I didn't like the looks of the DIY job.

The ProG4 1911 bow has the same bendable tab as their 2011 trigger, thats designed to take out any slack. In my experience though the slack once you switch to that bow is minimum....

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by RacingManiac

The ProG4 1911 bow has the same bendable tab as their 2011 trigger, thats designed to take out any slack. In my experience though the slack once you switch to that bow is minimum....

Hmm when you mean tab, do you mean that bit near the tab where the trigger is locked into place (lower middle picture in link)?

http://www.prog4.com/db/product-show.asp?refno=AR1419

Can you explain to me how that works? It's not on the stock marui trigger bows and I can't visualise how it'll remove the slack since the issue seems to be the trigger bow not being long enough to touch the sear disconnector when the trigger is at the rest position (so when the hammer is cocked and thumb safety one the trigger can still wobble around).

[RacingManiac]

As you say, the slack comes from any extra amount of travel between when the trigger actually contacts the disconnector and the rest position...by bending that tab forward(towards the trigger), it moves the rest position of the trigger back. towards the sear disconnector, as that position is determined by where the bow touches the interior of the grip.

It basically is like that screw in the trigger to minimize over travel, that screw is to remove extra travel after when the sear was tripped, by screwing it in you make it stop earlier by letting the screw bottoms on the mag release first...

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by RacingManiac

As you say, the slack comes from any extra amount of travel between when the trigger actually contacts the disconnector and the rest position...by bending that tab forward(towards the trigger), it moves the rest position of the trigger back. towards the sear disconnector, as that position is determined by where the bow touches the interior of the grip.

It basically is like that screw in the trigger to minimize over travel, that screw is to remove extra travel after when the sear was tripped, by screwing it in you make it stop earlier by letting the screw bottoms on the mag release first...

Took me a while to visualise it, but I think I got it with the help of your descriptions, thanks! :P

[ggMing]

Hi all, i recently aquired a TM Hi capa 4.3 ...
im looking over to upgrade it to be more powerful and accurate (distance and accuracy)

i know there is a lot to upgrade, but what is the important part to upgrade first...
i also know that longer barrel gives you more power and distance....

that would fit a TM 4.3? would barrels meant for 5.1 can be fitted in a 4.3 or do i need to stick with PDI barrel for 4.3 ....

thank you for your attention to this matter and your advice would be highly appreciated...

btw, i reside in M'sia

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by ggMing

Hi all, i recently aquired a TM Hi capa 4.3 ...
im looking over to upgrade it to be more powerful and accurate (distance and accuracy)

i know there is a lot to upgrade, but what is the important part to upgrade first...
i also know that longer barrel gives you more power and distance....

that would fit a TM 4.3? would barrels meant for 5.1 can be fitted in a 4.3 or do i need to stick with PDI barrel for 4.3 ....

thank you for your attention to this matter and your advice would be highly appreciated...

btw, i reside in M'sia

I believe you can stick a longer barrel through the 4.3 outer barrel but without a silencer or something of that sort to cover it you'll have the inner barrel sticking out of the gun.

For power; a nice upgrade is the Nineball bucking. The internal lips in the bucking prevent gas from being pushed backwards from the hop bucking (I think? Conventional thinking seem to point to that as a explanation for the fps increase but I'm always weary that to have the gas coming out of the nozzle be reversed in it's vector by 180 degrees seem wrong.) and with +0.25g bbs and the hop up setting nicely done the bucking material will give you a nice backspin. The King Arms one work better than the Nineball I believe but it's made of the same material as pencil erasers and as such I've read that they wear down after 1k rounds on high powered VSRs.

For distance and accuracy; I think many here recommend the Tanio Koba Twist. I think Brian said that with the twist barrel + marui bucking; when he sets the hop up to max it generates the farthest distance the bb can fly with a flat trajectory. I tried it myself and although I don't have enough range to see the effects of the hop up wear off I saw it shoot with a straight trajectory to 40 meters with KSC 0.25g bbs. However the bore diameter is larger than most so you'll see an FPS drop off.

For distance + power, the PDI 6.01 tightbores are favoured in general. Brian said that he noticed the 6.01 barrels are more accurate than the 6.03 nineball make but from the knowledge I gathered elsewhere a tighter bore is actually detrimental to accuracy. However, I also believe that bore consistency weighs more than the bore diameter and given that both Laylax (nineball) and PDI have some of the best bore consistencies at the ranges pistols can hit it may be that there is no noticeable accuracy differences. With that in mind you might prefer the PDI barrels more than the nineball or TK twist.

Use good bbs will also help with accuracy. I think the Excel bbs have a smaller diameter (told to me by a Redwolf employee at a game I was in) so for accuracy they might work better than say KSCs or TMs at longer ranges. Excels are pricier than KSCs or TMs but they are considered to be very well made bbs. Since you won't be shooting a ton of bbs from a pistol compared to an AEG (perhaps I'm wrong? :P) I believe the higher price of the Excels are worth it.

Wait till others on this thread chip in before making your decision though; I typed the above on the go so I dunno if there's anything wrong or debatable in it. More information is better anyway

[ggMing]

Originally Posted by intinerious

I believe you can stick a longer barrel through the 4.3 outer barrel but without a silencer or something of that sort to cover it you'll have the inner barrel sticking out of the gun.

For power; a nice upgrade is the Nineball bucking. The internal lips in the bucking prevent gas from being pushed backwards from the hop bucking (I think? Conventional thinking seem to point to that as a explanation for the fps increase but I'm always weary that to have the gas coming out of the nozzle be reversed in it's vector by 180 degrees seem wrong.) and with +0.25g bbs and the hop up setting nicely done the bucking material will give you a nice backspin. The King Arms one work better than the Nineball I believe but it's made of the same material as pencil erasers and as such I've read that they wear down after 1k rounds on high powered VSRs.

For distance and accuracy; I think many here recommend the Tanio Koba Twist. I think Brian said that with the twist barrel + marui bucking; when he sets the hop up to max it generates the farthest distance the bb can fly with a flat trajectory. I tried it myself and although I don't have enough range to see the effects of the hop up wear off I saw it shoot with a straight trajectory to 40 meters with KSC 0.25g bbs. However the bore diameter is larger than most so you'll see an FPS drop off.

For distance + power, the PDI 6.01 tightbores are favoured in general. Brian said that he noticed the 6.01 barrels are more accurate than the 6.03 nineball make but from the knowledge I gathered elsewhere a tighter bore is actually detrimental to accuracy. However, I also believe that bore consistency weighs more than the bore diameter and given that both Laylax (nineball) and PDI have some of the best bore consistencies at the ranges pistols can hit it may be that there is no noticeable accuracy differences. With that in mind you might prefer the PDI barrels more than the nineball or TK twist.

Use good bbs will also help with accuracy. I think the Excel bbs have a smaller diameter (told to me by a Redwolf employee at a game I was in) so for accuracy they might work better than say KSCs or TMs at longer ranges. Excels are pricier than KSCs or TMs but they are considered to be very well made bbs. Since you won't be shooting a ton of bbs from a pistol compared to an AEG (perhaps I'm wrong? :P) I believe the higher price of the Excels are worth it.

Wait till others on this thread chip in before making your decision though; I typed the above on the go so I dunno if there's anything wrong or debatable in it. More information is better anyway

Thank you very much for your time for guidance and advice, its greatly appreciated..

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by ggMing

Hi all, i recently aquired a TM Hi capa 4.3 ...
im looking over to upgrade it to be more powerful and accurate (distance and accuracy)

i know there is a lot to upgrade, but what is the important part to upgrade first...
i also know that longer barrel gives you more power and distance....

that would fit a TM 4.3? would barrels meant for 5.1 can be fitted in a 4.3 or do i need to stick with PDI barrel for 4.3 ....

thank you for your attention to this matter and your advice would be highly appreciated...

btw, i reside in M'sia

Originally Posted by ggMing

Hi all, i recently aquired a TM Hi capa 4.3 ...
im looking over to upgrade it to be more powerful and accurate (distance and accuracy)

i know there is a lot to upgrade, but what is the important part to upgrade first...
i also know that longer barrel gives you more power and distance....

Inner barrel, yes.
High flow output valves, hop up rubber, and floating valve are the next items in the list in order from most to least effective for power gains (bang for your buck.)

Originally Posted by ggMing

that would fit a TM 4.3? would barrels meant for 5.1 can be fitted in a 4.3 or do i need to stick with PDI barrel for 4.3 ....

A 5.1 length inner barrel will stick out of the 4.3 outer barrel. Think about it: the inner barrel is 0.8 inches longer.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by intinerious

Use good bbs will also help with accuracy. I think the Excel bbs have a smaller diameter (told to me by a Redwolf employee at a game I was in) so for accuracy they might work better than say KSCs or TMs at longer ranges. Excels are pricier than KSCs or TMs but they are considered to be very well made bbs. Since you won't be shooting a ton of bbs from a pistol compared to an AEG (perhaps I'm wrong? :P) I believe the higher price of the Excels are worth it.

That RW employee was right, in that Excel BB's have a smaller diameter than most, but that's not necessarily a good thing. You'll have lower power output because of it. Also, the smaller diameter is to make up for how inconsistent the spherical concentricity of Excel BB's are.

My opinion of Excel BB's are that they are crap. They have a slick surface finish, and the small size pretty much guarantees compatibility with almost all guns, but if you look at them carefully, they are not perfectly round, with a few surface imperfections. MOST other brands of BB's on the market are more round with a perfect sphere. When it comes to accuracy, you want a perfect sphere, rather than a lopsided one with visible seam lines.

Grab a handful of Excels and look at them. Probably half of them you can make out a seam line, which will affect its flight path if accuracy is a concern.

Secondly, I find Excel BB's to be very soft. In crush tests, they'll easily get destroyed and fragment with very little effort. I would never use Excels in any of my GBB's, GBBR's, or PTW's which all have high mechanical action and potential to chop BB's. I would only ever consider using Excel's in an AEG for CQB use, but there are much better BB's on the market for your dollar...

[ggMing]

Thank You Brian for your explanation. Good Day and Good Vibes to all... =D


i got to re read all 90 pages again and again to absorb all the information i need...

2 thumbs up for everyone who contributes in this specific thread itself...

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

That RW employee was right, in that Excel BB's have a smaller diameter than most, but that's not necessarily a good thing. You'll have lower power output because of it. Also, the smaller diameter is to make up for how inconsistent the spherical concentricity of Excel BB's are.

My opinion of Excel BB's are that they are crap. They have a slick surface finish, and the small size pretty much guarantees compatibility with almost all guns, but if you look at them carefully, they are not perfectly round, with a few surface imperfections. MOST other brands of BB's on the market are more round with a perfect sphere. When it comes to accuracy, you want a perfect sphere, rather than a lopsided one with visible seam lines.

Grab a handful of Excels and look at them. Probably half of them you can make out a seam line, which will affect its flight path if accuracy is a concern.

Secondly, I find Excel BB's to be very soft. In crush tests, they'll easily get destroyed and fragment with very little effort. I would never use Excels in any of my GBB's, GBBR's, or PTW's which all have high mechanical action and potential to chop BB's. I would only ever consider using Excel's in an AEG for CQB use, but there are much better BB's on the market for your dollar...

Wow, I never actually took the time to actually throughly inspect the bbs, I thought they were supposed to be a step up in quality compared to the KSCs...

From what I can tell, my bag of Excel 0.25gs don't have seam lines (when I use them anyway, I individually insert bbs into my mags through the side opening so I would've noticed) but they are slick just like you said, in comparison with KSCs. Perhaps they got better in the newer batches? My bag of 0.25gs were bought some 2 months ago but I have no idea how long it was sitting in the shop when I bought it. Actually since we're on the topic of bb quality I had a batch of KSC 0.3gs that had horrible lines in it; which looked like the lines you get when you try to rub a piece of chewing gum (that's already been chewed) into a sphere. My newer batches of KSC 0.3g bbs (one without a "made in Taiwan" label and one with) don't have the same problems as the first batch of 0.3g bbs I bought around a year ago.

Anyway thanks again for your invaluable advice :P Since you've mentioned problems with the Excel bbs (and although it's been working fine and seem to be seamless for my batch) I guess I won't take the risk of getting a bad batch considering the price per bb is so much higher than KSCs. My issue with the KSC 0.3gs have only appeared once and as far as I know no one else have had that issue with KSCs; so from the info I gather it'll seem like the KSCs have a lower risk of getting a bad batch + cheaper per bb.

[ILLusion]

I personally like KSC Perfects more than Excel - but this is me. I know there are a lot of people against KSC Perfect. I won't deny they've had their problems (I haven't had any of those weird cauliflower BB's that people have seen)

I only use them in GBB pistols, bolt actions and AEG's. I won't use them in my PTW or GBBR, because KSC Perfect is still soft enough to be chopped or crushed by the nozzle or bolt during chambering.

My top choice for BB (from order of highest to least) for most uses, is:

• Maruzen SGM
• Tokyo Marui Superior Grade
• BB Bastard
• Guarder
• Airsoft Elite
• G&G
• KSC

Qualities I use for BB preference include consistent size, consistent weight, concentric sphericity, a good polish, centralized bubbles (if any at all), and a very strong crush performance

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

I personally like KSC Perfects more than Excel - but this is me. I know there are a lot of people against KSC Perfect. I won't deny they've had their problems (I haven't had any of those weird cauliflower BB's that people have seen)

I only use them in GBB pistols, bolt actions and AEG's. I won't use them in my PTW or GBBR, because KSC Perfect is still soft enough to be chopped or crushed by the nozzle or bolt during chambering.

My top choice for BB (from order of highest to least) for most uses, is:

• Maruzen SGM
• Tokyo Marui Superior Grade
• BB Bastard
• Guarder
• Airsoft Elite
• G&G
• KSC

Qualities I use for BB preference include consistent size, consistent weight, concentric sphericity, a good polish, centralized bubbles (if any at all), and a very strong crush performance

Thanks for the info ! Too bad BB Bastards don't have a distributor in HK (not that I know of anyway), their bbs seem to be very well made from a report I've seen elsewhere.

[Kozzie]

Hey Brian I was wondering if you can tell wether or not this is a fixed barrel. I want to use it in my 5.1 Hi Capa that has your IK Kimber slide and frame. Also are their any modifications needed to switch from a tilting barrel to a fixed one, thanks.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by Kozzie

Hey Brian I was wondering if you can tell wether or not this is a fixed barrel. I want to use it in my 5.1 Hi Capa that has your IK Kimber slide and frame. Also are their any modifications needed to switch from a tilting barrel to a fixed one, thanks.

I'm pretty sure it's not. Nine Ball *does* have a new fixed series, but the chamber looks completely different. The entire barrel assembly looks like a straight tube, and has none of the standard chamber details, such as the lugs to retract it.

Zero mods required to go from IK fixed barrel to IK tilting barrel. Is yours a straight barrel or bull barrel?

Also, I can not guarantee any other brand of outer barrel will work with that slide set.