FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

[TaroBear]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

Thickness, plus the shape of the locking legs.

Is it a matter of preference, or will some simply not fit particular barrels? What would fit the Illusion Kinetics 1911 barrel?

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by TaroBear

Is it a matter of preference, or will some simply not fit particular barrels? What would fit the Illusion Kinetics 1911 barrel?

Preference. Both the IK barrel and Nova barrel bushings are built to Marui spec.

[TaroBear]

I see. Are 1911 and 2011 slide stops the same dimensions?

[RacingManiac]

More or less. Though Nova ones need some work to fit, even for a 1911....

ProG4/IK ones are drop-in...at least for me.

[TaroBear]

Alright, because I'm looking into an extended slide stop so I can reach it without shifting my grip.

Edit: Do you guys find any difference in performance between different recoil spring plugs?

[RacingManiac]

I am running Nova ones on all but 1 of my TM 2011/1911 now. So once you make it work, it should be fine.

Not much difference between plugs aside from their weight, lighter will help the slide cycles faster. SD ones are kinda bad though, while they are stainless steel and looks good from the outside, the inside is kind of roughly finished, and without lube the spring feels really coarse cycling in them....

Note also I believe 1911 plugs are longer than 2011 ones...

[TaroBear]

Wouldn't that mean that the aftermarket ones (which appear to be stainless steel) would offer inferior performance to the Marui OEM (which is plastic?)

[RacingManiac]

wait, this is the plug in the slide right? TM one is pot metal...

Ones come with Airsoft Surgeon/IK/ProG4 slides are aluminum, very very light. Nine Ball makes even lighter ones(plastic, with speed holes, I believe). Nine Ball also makes stainless steel ones that are actually quite nice. Nova ones for 1911 are stainless steel, so are the SD ones that come with the slide.

I pick and choose what I use based on what I am building. Race guns uses the light ones, regular guns uses the nicer looking ones, even if they are heavier. Same reason why I don't build my 1911(non-race) with light weight BBU, and sticks with the stock pot metal ones...

I was shooting my race Limcat and the new Infinity the other day. The Limcat with the plastic BBU, short stroke slide and 4.3 length slide kicks negligibly. Where as the new gun with more of "normal" setup has more kick to it. StrikeFreedom I think has a Hi-Capa race gun that was built to basically have no kick....

[RacingManiac]

Just as an FYI, not something I'd recommend, but I got a WA spec ProG4 trigger bow to work with a TM....needs lots of material removal and reshaping, but it works now....price you have to pay for your own stupidity....lol

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by RacingManiac

Just as an FYI, not something I'd recommend, but I got a WA spec ProG4 trigger bow to work with a TM....needs lots of material removal and reshaping, but it works now....price you have to pay for your own stupidity....lol

Care to share pics of what you did to the trigger bow to make it work? :P

[RacingManiac]

I'll snap some pics later tonight...

[TaroBear]

Does anyone have real gunner grips lying around? I know it was discussed several pages back. I want to pick some up and sand down the inside for the Marui grip weights, but I'm sort of worried they aren't thick enough.

Edit: I've also found clones of the real thing. Hoping they're the same thickness.

[RacingManiac]

Originally Posted by intinerious

Care to share pics of what you did to the trigger bow to make it work? :P

The black trigger is the modded one, the silver one is off my 3.9 WA SV. The rear tab has to be ground off, reshaped to shorten it so it doesn't bottom on the frame to stop it from firing. The front of the loop has to be reduced in height or else it'll bottom on the mag and stop it from firing. The trigger attachment is different from TM also to the top of the trigger has to be sanded down so it'll fit in a TM-sized grip.....

It works now....but much time could be saved by buying the right one....

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by RacingManiac

The black trigger is the modded one, the silver one is off my 3.9 WA SV. The rear tab has to be ground off, reshaped to shorten it so it doesn't bottom on the frame to stop it from firing. The front of the loop has to be reduced in height or else it'll bottom on the mag and stop it from firing. The trigger attachment is different from TM also to the top of the trigger has to be sanded down so it'll fit in a TM-sized grip.....

It works now....but much time could be saved by buying the right one....

Nice pics :P Anyway thanks for sharing

Hey another question I want to ask is have anyone used the steel trigger bows that ProG4 makes for the 1911? With the 1911 platform I find that the stock marui trigger bow is a tad too short and as such there is a ~0.5mm bit of slack on the trigger compared to the almost no slack on the TM hicapas.

I was wondering whether the steel trigger bows are a bit longer to remove the trigger slack and if they aren't; have anyone found a way to do so? I was thinking of supergluing a cut-up piece of credit card plastic the same length and width of the rear part of the trigger bow and from my initial testing (without the glue) it seems to work. I didn't superglue it at the end because I didn't like the looks of the DIY job.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by TaroBear

I see. Are 1911 and 2011 slide stops the same dimensions?

Yes and no.

Hope that answers your question. LOL. Depends on brand, and model, as well as applied gun.