FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

[ILLusion]

For what it's worth, I've never seen any type of muzzle threads on a Guarder barrel before (which are made of steel, by the way. NOT aluminum.)

You might have something else entirely different in your gun, like a Creation barrel, or Tanio Koba. Both of those are made of aluminum, with a threaded muzzle.

If my hunch is right about your stuck barrel issue, next time, try knocking the barrel inwards instead of slapping the back of the slide. If it releases that way, then you should STOP hitting the back of the slide to release it, because the problem will actually get worse if you do that often. Again, that's assuming my hunch is right on what's causing the problem. And if this is, in fact the problem, then hanging a silencer off the muzzle will compound the issue and eventually destruct your slide.

[Northman]

I need for my TM Hi Capu update Chamber Packing. I'd like try rubbers from Firefly.You can consult what temper?

[ILLusion]

Depends what velocity you're shooting.

Extra Soft < 300fps
Soft 300fps - 350fps
Hard > 350fps

[Northman]

Thank for help in selection.

[Styrak]

Originally Posted by Ghostnote

p.s. Also looking for a adapter to attach to the threads of my outer barrel to attach a tracer unit.

I can tell you from experience that won't work very well. Tracer units are too heavy for a pistol barrel.

[Ghostnote]

Originally Posted by Styrak

I can tell you from experience that won't work very well. Tracer units are too heavy for a pistol barrel.

Well there goes that idea. I guess I will have to wait until next game I go to to try it fiddling with the barrel. Seems to not happen when plinking. My slide I know is aluminum but im looking at the barrel now and im positive its not steel. Im pretty sure its not guarder brand either. Its not magnetic, it may be pot metal.

[ILLusion]

Well, for what it's worth, even stainless steel is not magnetic.

[ichimaru gin]

I just installed Nova Wilson thumb safety (ambi) on my TM hi capa 5.1.
it fits perfectly but I am having a hard time enganging it into safety position. It seems like the small pin (the one that holds the safety, so that it won't engage into safety position) is giving a lot of resistance.
When I push this pin (with a small screwdriver) while safety installed, I can easily engange the safety into safety position. So I assume the problem was caused by this small pin. Anyone ever had this problem?

[Northman]

Hopefully, that I you well pin down.

Problem isn't pin, but form Nova Wilson thumb safety. Need by the help of dreml modify form thumb safety - then will all OK. Attention, carefully and try.

[ichimaru gin]

@northman: Tried to file down the part you shown with a round file (Dont have a dremel) and the problem gets slightly better. I can now engage into safety with some force but not as much as before. Filing this "hard to reach" spot without dremel is a pain in the ass though...
Thanks for the info

[simohayha]

i have 2 question that have bothered me for some time now. finally i have finished my nova 1911 sfa build. and it shoots great, the only problem is that it only shoots around 300ish fps with standard mags and 310-ish with a mag that i installed KM hi flow valve. parts that might effect fps is as follow:
prog4 BBU
shooters design POM nozzle
firefly floating valve
firefly soft hop rubber
PDI 6,01 inner (standard, not raven or palsonite)
one mag with KM hi flow valve
guarder "blue can" gas

i dont see any gas bursting from the ejection port or from the back when i shoot, i dont feel anything "strange" with the way the gun handles, but the chrono results is kinda low IMO.
what do u guys think? and oh , everything else is nova and prog 4, but i dont think other parts effect fps so i dont list them all.

one more thing,the parts that bumps hard/ receive the biggest strain during blowback is the spring plug hitting the back of the spring guide,transferring the force to hop unit and slide lock pin right? soo the harder the blowback the more stress those parts is under right?
what part/parts receive the most stress when the slide moves back to battery? eg:if i use a relatively hard return spring. i know the lug inside my hi capa slide get damage really bad by hitting into the back of an SD chamber to push the "chamber+outer" assy back into battery. but what if i use prog4/IK non tilting chamber+outer? will that lug still hit the chamber? without that lug (lug heavily damaged) all i can think off is the one that stops the slide when returning to battery is the nozzle hitting the hop unit/hop rubber? anyone can enlighten me with this?
thanks

[ILLusion]

If you want higher power, use actual Top Gas, Toy Jet Gas, or one of the other higher power gasses. Guarder 'blue can' is apparently lower PSI than one of the rebranded propane cans.

Beyond that, the numbers you're showing aren't that far off.

Regarding your questions on shock/impact, depending on your spring guide setup, shock is usually transferred to the receiver insert and the receiver itself. However, if you have a short stroke setup or shock buffers of some type, then yes, the impact will transfer to the hop up chamber, slide lock lever pin, and also, to the receiver (both the insert and the external).

When moving back to battery, shock is on the slide lug, the chamber, hop up unit, the slide lock lever pin, and again, the external receiver.

Using an IK fixed barrel will NOT have any impact against that slide lug. It's why this barrel was developed this way. It will increase the life of your slide infinitely. You can even use this barrel with a slide that's had its lug completely sheared off.

I honestly wouldn't worry about that much. By the time you actually see any appreciable damage, you'll be old, grey, and bored of airsoft by then.

[simohayha]

thanks bro, that's a relieve, im gonna try propane and post the chrono results when it arrived.
my spring guide setup is using 9ball spring guide+plug with thrust bearing and guarder 150%. with non tilting barrel+chamber. im hoping to make the most reliable and long lasting gbb. any other parts that u might suggest?
thanks

[kar120c]

Any definitive solution for this issue? http://www.youtube.com/user/rickyvam.../1/W6j1gNuaT_g

many people files the metal under the bbu but i think it is caused from wear of inside parts causing the hammer to rise.
This issue is in my old Detonics and now start to begin in my Desert Warrior, so I think every pistol based on the 1911 is affected

[kar120c]

I wish to keep my Desert Warrior with the original plastic body but I wanto to upgrade the grip with a wooden one or rubber like Hogues.
There is a way to mantain the weight of the original grip, or are available "heavy" custom grips?