FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

[chenmeister]

The 5.1 and 1911/MEU share the same chamber right? Some parts specify for 5.1 and some others specify for 5.1/1911 which gets me a bit confused.

http://www.airsoftglobal.com/shop/in...oducts_id=9942

This only states its for the 5.1 but it should also fit the 1911/MEU correct? I heard somewhere that some of SD's chambers with different thread grooving might not attach onto the straight barrels for the 1911:

http://www.airsoftglobal.com/shop/in...ducts_id=12966

I plan on using this for accurate target shooting < 350fps. A tanio koba twist barrel is my best bet right?

I'm liked the nineball dyna piston back when I had my hi capa 5.1 so I'm definitely going to be running that again. I heard the Airsoft Surgeon loading nozzle is a good fit with the dyna? Any recommendations on aftermarket loading nozzles other than AS? How about the floating valve? Anybody upgrade that too?

With a Nova long recoil rod, I would need the Nova type 3 rod plug and then it would fit with the stock barrel bushing right? I wouldn't have to also get the Nova Type 3 barrel bushing for everything to fit right.

thanks

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by T[]RK

In the past it is TM M.E.U. Now it's deep HurricanE Desert Warrior custom (slide and frame). Parts - Guarder loading muzzle, NOVA hammer (with 160% hammer spring by Action). Problem with weak loading muzzle spring - not enough force\power to move it full way back ASAP.

If i simulate that situation, but move loading muzzle by finger full way back - the hammer hump stop right in front of the blowback unit ramp (no hole between loading muzzle and blowback unit). Then move slide 5mm back and release it - it will close with no problems. For me it mean - in ideal condition system work properly.

So, slide have got force\power to work properly (recoil spring is 160% by Action). Problem is - slide back loading muzzle as fast as possible. To do that - need more powerful loading muzzle spring. I thing BiC may help me... =)

What is your hammer upgraded with? That doesn't look like MEU. That was more the question I was asking... It looks like the type of hammer that actually requires the bump to be filed off the top of it so that the blowback unit doesn't hang on it:

It's because it's too long, it's causing the problems against the loading nozzle. Filing/grinding down the nub is all you have to do to get it functioning. It's how I fixed this gun which had Hurricane Kimber Covert Custom II conversion kit on Marui MEU base, with ILLusion Kinetics hammer set:

YouTube - Custom build, Slide hang on Hammer

[chenmeister]

So I found figured out most of my questions. the chambers fit, the different barrel bushings all fit they're just different styles in the front, and the sd wood grips don't have the cutout for the grips (I don't think most do unless they specify).

I've also concluded that the reason for my inconsistent recoil is because of my hammer spring not being able to properly knock open the magazine valve on a full charge of gas. The first couple shots were usually weak and then the recoil quickly kicks harder. I'm pretty sure I already have an upgraded hammer spring so I put another bb in with the spring. This fixed the problem of inconsistent recoil but now the kick is even harder and I can't shoot a full magazine on a single charge. Would upgrading to a steel hammer help?

Has anyone tried the Action cylinder bulb and piston set? I want to get the the dyna but the floating valve with o-ring in this set really intrigues me, its seems like it would work well. I don't know if having an o-ring would help much. Anybody have any recommendations on upgraded floating valves?

[simohayha]

did anyone know what the 2 metal spacer is for in KM high flow valve kit? one is thin and the other is thicker, i did notice some writings in japanese said that its 0,5 and 1mm respectively.
thanks

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by chenmeister

I'm pretty sure I already have an upgraded hammer spring so I put another bb in with the spring. This fixed the problem of inconsistent recoil but now the kick is even harder and I can't shoot a full magazine on a single charge. Would upgrading to a steel hammer help?

Has anyone tried the Action cylinder bulb and piston set? I want to get the the dyna but the floating valve with o-ring in this set really intrigues me, its seems like it would work well. I don't know if having an o-ring would help much. Anybody have any recommendations on upgraded floating valves?

Installing a steel hammer generally doesn't help with gas output issues.

I personally like the Action power up cylinder bulb, but also haven't noticed any improvements with gas issues by installing that part - if anything, it would make gas output increase.

One thing I've found that helps, is ventilated piston heads like the Nine Ball Dyna piston head... or if you're also interested in high flow floating valves, get the King Arms set, which includes both a ventilated piston head (like the 9Ball one), as well as a high flow floating valve (like the Action one, but built better.)

Originally Posted by simohayha

did anyone know what the 2 metal spacer is for in KM high flow valve kit? one is thin and the other is thicker, i did notice some writings in japanese said that its 0,5 and 1mm respectively.
thanks

It's a shim used to adjust the height of the strike face of the valve. It's to allow the user to tune the height according to each individual setup to achieve maximum gas output.

If you raise the height too much, it will stick out beyond the mag and cause reloading issues and even striking issues.
If too low, then you will not get maximum FPS output.

[chenmeister]

Thanks illusion, I will see which one works out well for me.

What kind of sites do you use on your 1911s? I like the stock MEU novak sites but hate the lack of white dots. I've thought of drilling in indents and filling them in but the problem with that is the shape of the sites, the flat surface is very small for dots on the rear sites.
I saw the DYTAC luminous sites which are cheap and seem like they could be a possibility (do the dot inserts indent or protrude?). I also saw the nitesiters adhesive 1/16" luminous dots you're selling, but are they small enough to fit on the rear stock meu site? Also, the front stock site has a serrated surface, so it probably wouldn't stick? I could probably sand it down to a flat surface first.

Any suggestions on putting dots in or aftermarket sites?

thanks

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by chenmeister

What kind of sites do you use on your 1911s? I like the stock MEU novak sites but hate the lack of white dots. I've thought of drilling in indents and filling them in but the problem with that is the shape of the sites, the flat surface is very small for dots on the rear sites.
I saw the DYTAC luminous sites which are cheap and seem like they could be a possibility (do the dot inserts indent or protrude?). I also saw the nitesiters adhesive 1/16" luminous dots you're selling, but are they small enough to fit on the rear stock meu site? Also, the front stock site has a serrated surface, so it probably wouldn't stick? I could probably sand it down to a flat surface first.

Any suggestions on putting dots in or aftermarket sites?

thanks

I use the stock MEU Novak marked sights on some builds, with Daysiters or Nitesiters attached.

Nitesiters are small enough to fit the surfaces. A small tube of cyanoacrylate is included with the kit to insure a more solid bond against uneven surfaces like the serrated front blade. The glue will fill any gaps.

[chenmeister]

are the dots barely squeezed on or in the correct position like on normal sites? I want to make sure they won't be in an odd position.

Are you able to place them like this?
http://images2.opticsplanet.com/640-...wards-2009.jpg

I'm in the dilemma of trying to decide if I should keep my silver chrome finish and put on wood grips but with stock black controls which would look a bit off (never seen chrome with wood grip/black controls) or paint the whole thing black and with wood grips. I know black would look great but I'm not sure about the painting/finish. For some reason I feel silver/chrome has a lot more potential. Any suggestions please?

This is what I currently have:
http://www.airsoftretreat.com/classi...e=IMG_1916.JPG
http://www.airsoftretreat.com/classi...e=IMG_1919.JPG

Right now, I'm thinking of this:
http://gastatic.com/UserImages/3258/.../wm_836927.jpg
http://gastatic.com/UserImages/3258/..._wm_836926.jpg

in which I would simply have to fill in the cocking serrations, trademarks, and some other parts with black.
The thing is I love the rosewood wood grips but can't figure out a good way to somehow work them in with what I currently have.

Has anyone seen these springfield armory cross cannon wood grips but in silver black? (black with wood texture)

http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/shop/a...ck-p-3788.html
http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/ecshop/goods.php?id=3788

This is the same item on tokyo model but with different prices and also different web layout.. whats going on? Is one of them an old site? I'm able to place an order from either one.

thanks so much

[chenmeister]

Thought you guys would enjoy my new spring plug

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by chenmeister

are the dots barely squeezed on or in the correct position like on normal sites? I want to make sure they won't be in an odd position.

Are you able to place them like this?
http://images2.opticsplanet.com/640-...wards-2009.jpg

Originally Posted by chenmeister

Thought you guys would enjoy my new spring plug

That's pretty neat! How does the barrel bushing lock?

[chenmeister]

wow that looks great, do you have a gallery I could go through?

Here's another plug. Its wide enough so the barrel bushing holds onto the rim even without notches to fit in.


The plug is an empty .45 cal casing. Real steel GI 1911's can use them as a temporary recoil plug replacement, apparently Browning designed it so the .45 casing would be a perfect fit. I love how it also functions with our 1911s, but just not as smooth.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by chenmeister

wow that looks great, do you have a gallery I could go through?

Meh, just some various stuff here:

http://pbase.com/illusive_airsoft/airsoft

Wish I had the time to photograph all the builds I've done. Time is the limiting factor.

[Gunmage]

Got a problem. So i just installed my prog4 trigger into my new grip, and before i put the slide on, the trigger engages, works and trips the hammer. However, once i put the slide on, the trigger does not engage the hammer and when i take the slide off, it's still like that, and so i have to disassemble everything to get the trigger working. Any way to remedy this?

Also, it looks like it has something to do with the disconnector?

[ILLusion]

It's possible you have the overtravel grub screw engaged too far. Try backing it off.

[Gunmage]

whats the over travel grub screw? How do i adjust it?

I can also tell that the disconnector is getting to much pressure being put up. Im pretty sure the problem lies there.