FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

[ILLusion]

Ah, hard to narrow this problem down. Only thing I can suggest is to swap parts bit by bit with a known working gun until you narrow down the part that's causing the problem. I'm working on another gun right now that has a similar problem, but the kit is a Nova kit. I've narrowed the source of the problem down to the receiver, but haven't figured out the exact nature of the problem.

As for dulling it, why not just buy the regular silver kit to begin with? People buy the electroplated version to specifically get the shine, and you want to reverse it? An acid bath could etch it as well, but you'd have to really know what you're doing to control the result. Sandblasting is cheaper, easier, and safer.

[chenmeister]

I actually got this secondhand and it was a good deal so I couldn't pass it up and it was originally prefitted by the shop. I think the electroplated chrome makes the pistol look a bit cheap, its a bit too shiny. Why is it hard to narrow the problem down knowing its a guarder slide/frame? Thanks for your help I'll see what I can do about this issue.

I'm also looking for a silver outerbarrel and extended guide rod kit for the meu but all the oversea sites seem to be out of stock for some reason. The only site I've found that have both in stock is Tokyo Model Co. I've never heard of them, do they have a good reputation?

thanks

[ILLusion]

TMC is reputable. I've had good dealings with them.

[chenmeister]

So I put some more rounds through and its the same with both magazines. The first couple rounds of a fresh mag shoots normal until the last 10 consecutively rounds or so where it shoots/kicks extremely hard. Then the last 2-3 rounds feel weak before the gas runs out.
Does this info help?

[ILLusion]

So... it shoots "normal" for the first couple of rounds, and then the next 10 rounds both shoots and kicks extremely hard, followed by 2-3 weak shots before gas is empty?

What is your definition of "normal"?

[chenmeister]

yes that's right. "normal" as in it feels like the kick of other gbb's and is how it usually shoots.

About removing the chrome finish. Instead of sandblasting do you think polishing with high grit sandpaper (1000-2000) would work out?

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by chenmeister

yes that's right. "normal" as in it feels like the kick of other gbb's and is how it usually shoots.

So what's the difference between the first two "normal" shots and the 10 "hard" shots? It kicks even harder than normal?

Is your hammer spring upgraded?

Originally Posted by chenmeister

About removing the chrome finish. Instead of sandblasting do you think polishing with high grit sandpaper (1000-2000) would work out?

Maybe... but that could actually give you an even shinier mirror polished finish. A lot of people use high grit to get that high polish shine. LOL. Here you are, trying to reverse it...

[chenmeister]

for most of the magazine, the rounds in the beginning shoot normal at around 300fps. (Its also funny cause when I got it chrono'd I didn't notice any harder kick and the stock magazine shot higher fps than the magazine with the hi flow. The higher kick feels unnatural, almost as if the slide is about to fly off.
I'm not sure if the hammer spring is upgraded or not but it looks like it is (having nothing to compare it to so can't be certain) This was prebuilt by the ehobbyasia: http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/eac-custo...ol-chrome.html
It says "Custom upgrade Magazine Valve & Power Recoil Spring" so it might only be an upped recoil spring.

I think a chrome mirror finish also requires wet sanding and buffering so maybe if I were to skip those... I want more of a opaque metal finish like in this:
http://www.digital-ink.net/photos/1911A1.jpg
While still shiny, its not reflective/chrome which I think looks cheap and toylike. I want the shiny reflective outerbarrel stand to stand out over the slide. I plan on putting springfield woodgrips on and also painting in the serrations,top&bottom of slide,trademarks, and some other parts in either grey pictured in the previous picture or black:
http://www.gundirectory.com/guns/20257-1.jpg

maybe we should switch to pm's so we don't end up cluttering up this thread.
thanks for all your help

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by chenmeister

for most of the magazine, the rounds in the beginning shoot normal at around 300fps. (Its also funny cause when I got it chrono'd I didn't notice any harder kick and the stock magazine shot higher fps than the magazine with the hi flow. The higher kick feels unnatural, almost as if the slide is about to fly off.

I've never seen or heard of this problem before. Perhaps a video might help me visualize this, cuz I really want to see this for myself.

[T[]RK]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

What is the "sear pin"?

Part #GM4-61 for M.E.U.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by T[]RK

Part #GM4-61 for M.E.U.

Okay, I see which part you're referring to. Interesting to hear that it broke, I haven't seen that before. It will probably fix your problem, though. If the pin is missing or broken, it could cause alignment issues of the sear, and I can see how you could potentially get full auto fire from that.

[T[]RK]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

Okay, I see which part you're referring to. Interesting to hear that it broke, I haven't seen that before.

Exactly the same.

Originally Posted by ILLusion

If the pin is missing or broken, it could cause alignment issues of the sear, and I can see how you could potentially get full auto fire from that.

But, it's simple way to convert to full auto (for "carbine" customs with future long mags. Sound very interesting for me anyway.). Then i get new pin from LCT i can provide small full auto video and photo of the pin (right after i fix problem with hammer, loading muzzle and weak spring of the loading muzzle).

[chenmeister]

alright, I will try to get a video of it.

Also, do you know if the aftermarket shooters design wood grips for the 1911's ($50-80) are hollowed out to allow room for the removable weights? If they're just solid wood I find it a bit pointless to buy from an airsoft manufacturer when real steel grips are cheaper ($40)

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by T[]RK

...problem with hammer, loading muzzle and weak spring of the loading muzzle).

What brand is your gun and the shown parts in that photo? Two ways to fix the blowback unit hanging on the hammer like that:

1. File down the hump on the top of the hammer so that the blowback unit has an easier time sliding over it.

2. File a ramp in the blowback unit so that it has an easier time sliding over the hammer hump.

Originally Posted by chenmeister

Also, do you know if the aftermarket shooters design wood grips for the 1911's ($50-80) are hollowed out to allow room for the removable weights? If they're just solid wood I find it a bit pointless to buy from an airsoft manufacturer when real steel grips are cheaper ($40)

I do not know. Someone else can chime in if they know.

[T[]RK]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

What brand is your gun and the shown parts in that photo?

In the past it is TM M.E.U. Now it's deep HurricanE Desert Warrior custom (slide and frame). Parts - Guarder loading muzzle, NOVA hammer (with 160% hammer spring by Action). Problem with weak loading muzzle spring - not enough force\power to move it full way back ASAP.

If i simulate that situation, but move loading muzzle by finger full way back - the hammer hump stop right in front of the blowback unit ramp (no hole between loading muzzle and blowback unit). Then move slide 5mm back and release it - it will close with no problems. For me it mean - in ideal condition system work properly.

So, slide have got force\power to work properly (recoil spring is 160% by Action). Problem is - slide back loading muzzle as fast as possible. To do that - need more powerful loading muzzle spring. I thing BiC may help me... =)