WIP: Upgrading Your Tokyo Marui Glock

[Silver_Back]

Thanks for the quick answer E-Luder and MaybeStopCalling

@E-Luder
''the Shooter's Design slides have a looser tolerance than the PGC ones.''

I am not sure to really understand whats better. Looser tolerance?
Are you saying the PGC have a similar but a better/tighter fit?

''THe only thing that i would recommend you changing out the hammer spring. THe rest is "if it's not broke, don't fix it" type deal.''

I am making myself a second slide kit. That why I am buy so much parts.
1) Gaz Dunter Slide
(Original/Not broken parts) slide + external\internal Barrel, Hopup set, Nozzle set, Blow back assembly set

2) Propane or GG
(Stronger & better parts) Alu slide + external\internal Barrel, Nozzle, 150% recool spring
(Everythings other little parts requires to make it a 2 sec swap) Hopup parts,, Blow back assembly parts.

But I guest keeping most Original TM i can should make my life easier and my slide heavier
KISS like they say. Keep It Simple Stupid
;-)

The question is, willI I be able to find every little ttiny parts :-\



@MaybeStopCalling
''On the upgrade/stock list: Nine Ball Hop Bucking, TK Twist Barrel, and Hammer Spring. Else just upgrade it when it breaks. Oh, and the sights. The TM sights suck. SUCK.''

I want to different slide kit I can swap whenever I Use duster or Propane. That why I ''change'' so many things.
But to keep my life simple and my slide heavier Ill buy mostly original parts.




Thanks for the late night answer, I was not expecting to be answer that quickly.
;-)

Silver_Back

[emp3ror86]

Originally Posted by MaybeStopCalling

With the reinforced frame, I've started moving towards exchanging all my magazines for the APS CO2 magazines. Testing using the APS magazine resulted in an 40 FPS boost on my pistol- The gun, using TM stock magazines, was doing 280. With the APS magazines, it's doing a solid 320, and I don't have to worry about running out of gas.

If the gun survives this... we're good to go.

What recoil spring do you use it with? APS mags throw back my slide so strong it would jam and needs to be pushed back by hand.

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by emp3ror86

What recoil spring do you use it with? APS mags throw back my slide so strong it would jam and needs to be pushed back by hand.

Jam in what way?
You need to very careful about how your gun is handling all that recoil energy.

This tells me that all the recoil kinetic energy is dispersed right when the slide changes it's direction. THis could spell disaster from your front screw casing (if yo havent modded your gun).

[zessy]

Hi !

I had built a first glock with TM G17 basis + guarder complete kit, palsonite barrel and nine ball hopup rubber. This one was working perfectly, and the fitting of each element had been easy and perfect from the beginning. Since it has been stolen, I made a new one with the same basis: TM + complete guarder kit + guarder light weight nozzle housing and shooters design hammer spring. And I am waiting for a tanio koba barrel and a high flow valve in the next coming days.

I have the impression that Guarder items are really unequal in terms of quality and fitting…
With this new one I meet some issues:
- The steel trigger lever was not acting on the hammer, impossible to shoot, whatever position or bending I tried with it. And I broke it when I tried to bend it (stupidly) on the place where the trigger makes an angle, probably more fragile. The original trigger lever works, but I don’t know how long it will last. I will wait for it to break before switching again to a steel one… I didn’t have this issue with the previous one.
- The slide sometimes doesn’t push enough on the hammer to hook it in shooting position (nice moment when you want to take off the slide, that becomes impossible). It seems that the hook needs just a little bit more of vertical pressure to engage and block the hammer, since it doesn’t happen if I take care to apply a bit of strength down on the slide when I pull it. For the moment, it seems to cycle correctly when I shoot with gaz, and I meet this issue only with manual action. Should I file a little bit the hook to let it engage easier on the hammer, or should this issue disappear during the “lapping” of the pieces with the use? Or would it be better to install a thin metal plate between the BBU housing and the slide, to get a better pressure on the hammer wheel?
- When I engage the magazine, it loses gas. As soon as I pull the slide and let it take back its position, it gets back to normal and seems to be correctly sealed again. Any idea on the cause and action to solve it? Engaging it without the slide on the block, it seems that the hammer is moving to the top to follow the valve insertion.

I add that after shooting without magazine to disarm the glock, the trigger stays on the back with a very short course, and I can't remember if it was the case on my previous model.
Thank you in advance for your help!

Edit: I turn back on what I said! It doesn't work well at all: when I want to shoot, it works in full auto mode and shoots all the pellets with only one pressure on the trigger. Shitty stuff... :-( Help will be highly appreciated! It really seems that the hammer would need to be pushed just a bit more to hang correctly at each movement of the slide, or the hammer bearing should be just a bit larger (half a millimeter, not even) to be caught correctly by the slide...

[zessy]

To continue on the subject:
- hammer cocking solved: I just polished a bit the hooks (only took off the paint, it's so difficult to have any action on such a small piece), it works and seems to catch each time. Incredible how it can be sensible to minor thicknesses. I'll check during fire cycles how it goes (I just glued the dummy ejector and cannot use it until it dries).

- loss of gaz: it is the hammer that pushes vertically on the valve when I engage the magazine without pulling the slide. If I release the catch magazine and let it go down just a bit (not even a millimeter), it stops leaking.
I feel that filling just a bit the magazine where the lever catches it or filling the lever will be the best solution... Would it go back to normal by only using it?

Have a nice day!

[Amoki]

Can anyone identify what this piece is? Fell out from the back of my Glock , but cant identify where it came from even with reference to the TM G17 blow-up diagramme.

It's got a big and a small hole underneath

[ARC-74]

Originally Posted by Amoki

Can anyone identify what this piece is? Fell out from the back of my Glock , but cant identify where it came from even with reference to the TM G17 blow-up diagramme.

It's got a big and a small hole underneath

Looks like part G17-9 from the diagram, gets inserted in the blowback unit (G17-8).

[e-luder]

- The steel trigger lever was not acting on the hammer, impossible to shoot, whatever position or bending I tried with it. And I broke it when I tried to bend it (stupidly) on the place where the trigger makes an angle, probably more fragile. The original trigger lever works, but I don’t know how long it will last. I will wait for it to break before switching again to a steel one… I didn’t have this issue with the previous one.

The trigger lever is not something that you should be worried about. The stock trigger bar works fine. It's possible that the steel trigger was bent at the tab where it interacts with the sear nub. WHen this happens, the lever just "slips" and not "engage" the sear. Thus, no action.

The slide sometimes doesn’t push enough on the hammer to hook it in shooting position (nice moment when you want to take off the slide, that becomes impossible). It seems that the hook needs just a little bit more of vertical pressure to engage and block the hammer, since it doesn’t happen if I take care to apply a bit of strength down on the slide when I pull it. For the moment, it seems to cycle correctly when I shoot with gaz, and I meet this issue only with manual action. Should I file a little bit the hook to let it engage easier on the hammer, or should this issue disappear during the “lapping” of the pieces with the use? Or would it be better to install a thin metal plate between the BBU housing and the slide, to get a better pressure on the hammer wheel?

This is a combination of a lot of things.

But all boils down to loose fitment with the slide. THere are tabs on the Hammer housing that keep the slide tight fitting. If those tabs are worn, it will cause the action you are describing.

Also refrain from filing anything down on your BBU. If you're hammer is not locking then that may mean that the blowback unit does not have enough packing to push it down. If you get to that scenario, you'll need to CAREFULLY modify your sear hooks so that it can engage the hammer hooks correctly.

When I engage the magazine, it loses gas. As soon as I pull the slide and let it take back its position, it gets back to normal and seems to be correctly sealed again. Any idea on the cause and action to solve it? Engaging it without the slide on the block, it seems that the hammer is moving to the top to follow the valve insertion.

I'm not quite sure what you mean here...

But if you lose gas when you insert the mag, that usually means that your firing pin is too long such that when you insert the mag, it is already pressing down on the valve.

You can round off the bottom part of the firing pin so it can slip into place or file the whole strikeface altogether but be very careful about how much you take off. If you take too much off, you'll lose a bit of gas output since the firing pin will be too short to press the valve.

I turn back on what I said! It doesn't work well at all: when I want to shoot, it works in full auto mode and shoots all the pellets with only one pressure on the trigger. Shitty stuff... :-( Help will be highly appreciated! It really seems that the hammer would need to be pushed just a bit more to hang correctly at each movement of the slide, or the hammer bearing should be just a bit larger (half a millimeter, not even) to be caught correctly by the slide...

This is a Hammer to Blowback Unit issue.
Either your slide is too loose or the bump on your BBU is completely gone.

You can try using a bigger bearing (hammer wheel) such as the 9mm Action hammer bearing to try and fix this. But I doubt it will help any. Your best bet would be to just buy a new BBU altogether.

- loss of gaz: it is the hammer that pushes vertically on the valve when I engage the magazine without pulling the slide. If I release the catch magazine and let it go down just a bit (not even a millimeter), it stops leaking.
I feel that filling just a bit the magazine where the lever catches it or filling the lever will be the best solution... Would it go back to normal by only using it?

You need to file the firing pin.

[e-luder]

I am not sure to really understand whats better. Looser tolerance?
Are you saying the PGC have a similar but a better/tighter fit?

In my honest opinion, Yes.

The question is, willI I be able to find every little ttiny parts :-\

depends which part you are looking for.

[daishi]

Is there anyway to INCREASE the tension of the trigger pull? Im not a race gun person, and I find that the light pull of the tm glock to be a small quirk. Its not a huge deal, but if anyone knows how to make the tension higher (not the length of the trigger pull) please let me know.

[MaybeStopCalling]

You could get a heavier spring for the uptake, but the break will be extremely hard to modify due to the design of the gun.

[daishi]

Im not 100% on what the uptake or brake is. Id assume id just need to get a heavier spring that connects from the body to the trigger arm... just unsure where to get one...or if there is a place to get one made.

[MaybeStopCalling]

Originally Posted by daishi

Im not 100% on what the uptake or brake is. Id assume id just need to get a heavier spring that connects from the body to the trigger arm... just unsure where to get one...or if there is a place to get one made.

The idea is that the weight of the trigger should increase as you get closer to the break point, which is where it feels like the trigger hits a wall. If you pull past this wall, the gun goes off. Now, the uptake from resting to break is controlled by that spring. But the break itself, and the force to break that wall to get the gun to fire (in addition to the spring), is dependent on the design of the trigger group and by extension the hammer spring.

When a gun's trigger weight is measured, it's not the uptake they're talking about- it's the break. An actual Glock will break that trigger around 5.5-6.5 pounds; that's what they're talking about.

Now you could throw in a bigger spring, and you've made your overall pull heavier, but without a way to make the break stronger, you're going to lose the ability to feel for that break point- not a good thing.

TLR - A heavier spring will make it harder to pull, but reduce the quality of your trigger and thus the accuracy of the gun.

[Danke]

A) Confirm with another TM Glock that pull in normal and there is not an issue with the build.

B) Keep your finger off the trigger till it's time to pull it.

[daishi]

Alright thanks Maybe.

@Danke there is no issue with the build nor my finger safety, just wanting to make my trigger closer to a legit glock.