WIP: Upgrading Your Tokyo Marui Glock

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by zessy

Thank you e-luder for your answers.
The problem comes from the fact that I damaged it a bit during reassembly because I didn't pay attention to te wheel good position and the arm went beside and bent. So I had to twist it back to get its correct shape, but I guess it didn't like the operation at all. Sometimes I have 2 left hands, with only thumbs on them...

Any idea of who's building /selling these steel arms? This was in fact my first idea, but I didn't found any... I tried with my friend google and visited some forums, but there seems to be no subject for alternative models, or even for modification on the original one.

Would this be helful to heat it and then cool it down in water, or will this be worst?
Any other operation that can be done without damaging it more than it is or making it weaker than it became?

ILLusion here on ASC sells the steel arms But he's not been online lately.

Also, check proG4. Captain KK is pretty awesome and he sells those arms with the brass wheel for the Hi-capa. anddd yes. It will fit a Glock hop up.

I wouldn't try heating it up. Remember, that arm is pot metal. If you heat up too much it can melt or warp or something stupid. lol. And for the record, you don't need to heat it. Just bend it where the factory bended it.

Here's another method you try:
http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=165305

Seems to have worked out for him.

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by loafing_smurf

Has anyone tried putting a WE G17 on a Guarder G17 frame?

YOu should be ok.

A little filing here and there. But I never really had to do any "extensive" modifications to any part of the Guarder frame or the WE innards.

The takedown lever will be a bit tight though. But this is also present on the Marui side as well. So I guess be prepared for that????

[MaybeStopCalling]

I fixed the front post issue for HK3 frames, and possibly Guarder frames.

I reasoned that if JB welding the front rails to the frame was the only way to ensure the front post would not snap, that a more reversible method would exist. I was reading about the Glock when I read about the second roll pin they added halfway through the third generation in order to reinforce the locking block.... idea.

I decided to drill out the hole in Part 18 where Part 33 enters, holding the leaf spring that pushes the slide lock up as well as providing detents for the safety plate. I drilled two corresponding holes in my frame (They were the thickest areas, don't worry), through which I inserted a solid pin. I slightly opened up the front post recess in Part 18 to avoid direct contact, directing the forces to our two pins, the added one and the trigger one.

The gun fires with and without the front post screw, and I think I've successfully redirected forces to the frame. I don't know if this will work for ABS frames- HK3's frames are nylon and more durable, same for Guarder. Even if the post breaks... the pins should hold the frame solidly.

... I think this is the most I've used my engineering degree for in some time.

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by MaybeStopCalling

I fixed the front post issue for HK3 frames, and possibly Guarder frames.

I reasoned that if JB welding the front rails to the frame was the only way to ensure the front post would not snap, that a more reversible method would exist. I was reading about the Glock when I read about the second roll pin they added halfway through the third generation in order to reinforce the locking block.... idea.

I decided to drill out the hole in Part 18 where Part 33 enters, holding the leaf spring that pushes the slide lock up as well as providing detents for the safety plate. I drilled two corresponding holes in my frame (They were the thickest areas, don't worry), through which I inserted a solid pin. I slightly opened up the front post recess in Part 18 to avoid direct contact, directing the forces to our two pins, the added one and the trigger one.

The gun fires with and without the front post screw, and I think I've successfully redirected forces to the frame. I don't know if this will work for ABS frames- HK3's frames are nylon and more durable, same for Guarder. Even if the post breaks... the pins should hold the frame solidly.

... I think this is the most I've used my engineering degree for in some time.

Wow.
Wish I thought of that.
Blows my design out of the water. lol.

Have you done any testing for it, MSC?
You'll have to let us know how it handles it.

Keep in mind, most of the impact is absorbed primarily by the screw itself. If your design is able to channel the kinetic energy and successfully transfer it to the secondary post, then you my friend deserve a diet coke, a pat on the back and a patent of some sort.

The casing breaks because it's soft. Thereby, allowing some sort of give when the load comes to the screw. Thus, when the give happens, the screw casing crumbles apart. It just needs to be stronger, that's all. lol.

The basic premise of the JB WELD method is to NOT allow any movement on the inner frame. I hope your design is the same effect as that.

TO be clear as well, the gun will always run without that stupid screw installed. But sometimes, you'll get a rocky slide action.
If you want, I'll gladly donate both a tinted and a full black Marui frame for you to test it on since they are the weakest frames out of the three brands, IMO...

[MaybeStopCalling]

I completed the modification this morning, and so far I have about 50 rounds through it, with another 50 dry fire. So far so good. I do plan on increasingly working in the pistol once the final parts of this build arrive. It is the same premise as bedding the parts in JBWeld- to remove all force on the post.

Part 18, the front rail block, is completely solid in its position. I haven't had any wiggling so far, which is good. At this point, I don't know if the opening I made in Part 18 is big enough not to contact the screw post- Guess it's irrelevant if the screw is taking the force (if any). I do know, however, that that post could explode and the front rail block wouldn't budge- Which is fine by me, as long as my pistol keeps functioning smoothly. At the moment I can't tell the difference between screw and no screw. My concern, however, is how well the frame takes the load at those two pins. It seems QLong's method of pushing the load to the trigger pin has no ill effects, but one can never be too certain.

If anything, the downside of this modification is the complexity and risk. It took me two hours, a dremel, and a drill to get this modification done. It is a modification of the frame in a very, very visible area. Done right, it looks great. Done wrong... oh dear. You lose a frame, the front rail block, and possibly more. As well, purists will freak out at the thought of an extra pin where there wouldn't be one on the RS.

E-Luder, I'm sure you have more equipment and more parts to work with than I do (Fun fact, I would have killed for a workbench and drill press today... oh the life of a new grad) If I instead donate the clear frame and pictures/specs of the modification, would you be interested in testing it out?

On an unrelated note... these things are miles easier to work on than the KSC/KWA ones, and the two stage trigger/reset is godly... I managed to make my roommate nearly buy a Glock based on that reset haha.

TL : DR- This mod makes the screw post irrelevant (Except for indexing during the pin install) and the only concern is the frame where these holes are punched through for the two pins.

[zessy]

Your tip for the hop arm is so damned easy that I didn't even think about!
At the moment bending it a bit seems enough, even if I have some side spin in end of course of the bbs. I will try to change a bit the angle to fix this.
After what, I guess taht I can't do much more for enhancement. The nozzle will come once it breaks only since it doesn't seem to change so much respecting the original one, and I am waiting for the sd hammer springs to finish the job.

Looking accurately at it, I feel a little bit disappointed with the surface finishings of the guarder slides. Polishing before anodization isn't so nice, and the color isn't uniform, some areas are clearer than others. But I think that once the surface will be worn, I will polish everything accurately and make a new anodization, or a parkerization if it stands on aluminium.
For the rest, it works and looks nice however.
E-luder, I really thank you for your help, comments and tips, you seem to be the bible of tm glock!
I can't imagine how much you spent to test all this stuff!

[MaybeStopCalling]

Fun fact, don't loctite the rear BBU screw if your sights are plastic. I did that last night, fired the gun today... and my rear sight exploded.

[loafing_smurf]

Originally Posted by MaybeStopCalling

Fun fact, don't loctite the rear BBU screw if your sights are plastic. I did that last night, fired the gun today... and my rear sight exploded.

ERTW

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by loafing_smurf

ERTW

I'm so old, I don't even know what this means...
What do these letters stand for?

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by MaybeStopCalling

I completed the modification this morning, and so far I have about 50 rounds through it, with another 50 dry fire. So far so good. I do plan on increasingly working in the pistol once the final parts of this build arrive. It is the same premise as bedding the parts in JBWeld- to remove all force on the post.

Part 18, the front rail block, is completely solid in its position. I haven't had any wiggling so far, which is good. At this point, I don't know if the opening I made in Part 18 is big enough not to contact the screw post- Guess it's irrelevant if the screw is taking the force (if any). I do know, however, that that post could explode and the front rail block wouldn't budge- Which is fine by me, as long as my pistol keeps functioning smoothly. At the moment I can't tell the difference between screw and no screw. My concern, however, is how well the frame takes the load at those two pins. It seems QLong's method of pushing the load to the trigger pin has no ill effects, but one can never be too certain.

If anything, the downside of this modification is the complexity and risk. It took me two hours, a dremel, and a drill to get this modification done. It is a modification of the frame in a very, very visible area. Done right, it looks great. Done wrong... oh dear. You lose a frame, the front rail block, and possibly more. As well, purists will freak out at the thought of an extra pin where there wouldn't be one on the RS.

E-Luder, I'm sure you have more equipment and more parts to work with than I do (Fun fact, I would have killed for a workbench and drill press today... oh the life of a new grad) If I instead donate the clear frame and pictures/specs of the modification, would you be interested in testing it out?

On an unrelated note... these things are miles easier to work on than the KSC/KWA ones, and the two stage trigger/reset is godly... I managed to make my roommate nearly buy a Glock based on that reset haha.

TL : DR- This mod makes the screw post irrelevant (Except for indexing during the pin install) and the only concern is the frame where these holes are punched through for the two pins.

Believe it or not, I probably have the least equipment in my shop than most gun techs. I don't even have an armorer''s wrench anymore. Sold it for cigarettes and coolers. 2% ones at like...NoFrills or something.

But i do know how to use my tools well. heh.

You should run your tests as close to "normal" as possible. That means the screw should be present in your tests. This is just normal quality control. Also you should do two tests. One without the second pin and one with it. It'd be interesting to see the results.

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by zessy

Your tip for the hop arm is so damned easy that I didn't even think about!
At the moment bending it a bit seems enough, even if I have some side spin in end of course of the bbs. I will try to change a bit the angle to fix this.
After what, I guess taht I can't do much more for enhancement. The nozzle will come once it breaks only since it doesn't seem to change so much respecting the original one, and I am waiting for the sd hammer springs to finish the job.

Looking accurately at it, I feel a little bit disappointed with the surface finishings of the guarder slides. Polishing before anodization isn't so nice, and the color isn't uniform, some areas are clearer than others. But I think that once the surface will be worn, I will polish everything accurately and make a new anodization, or a parkerization if it stands on aluminium.
For the rest, it works and looks nice however.
E-luder, I really thank you for your help, comments and tips, you seem to be the bible of tm glock!
I can't imagine how much you spent to test all this stuff!

Just make sure you bend it correctly.
Bend it where the factory bended it.

Don't just "bend" it. if you bend it this way, you will put an unbalanced pressure on the rubber. The one side will have more pressure than the other.

[MaybeStopCalling]

Originally Posted by e-luder

I'm so old, I don't even know what this means...
What do these letters stand for?

Engineers rule the world... I believe spoken ironically considering the amateur mistake of attempting to loctite ABS.

Originally Posted by e-luder

Believe it or not, I probably have the least equipment in my shop than most gun techs. I don't even have an armorer''s wrench anymore. Sold it for cigarettes and coolers. 2% ones at like...NoFrills or something.

But i do know how to use my tools well. heh.

You should run your tests as close to "normal" as possible. That means the screw should be present in your tests. This is just normal quality control. Also you should do two tests. One without the second pin and one with it. It'd be interesting to see the results.

At the moment I don't have a second Marui to work with and this modification pretty much is irreversible... I'll keep running mags through this thing and let y'all know when and if it starts to go. I am building a G22 for a friend who's joined Toronto Police in the fall, so I might do my testing then if someone hasn't beaten me to it. QLong would love this modification, though I seem to have trouble reaching him these days.

[e-luder]

:O

A G22?
For like...training and stuff?

A TM G22 is surprisingly deceptive in weight and kick. It looks "heavy" but it's really light. Especially on the front end of the gun. But then again, the gun is pretty lightweight enough anyways.

The AS SAI G22 slide kit is super light and the Detonator G22 Hybrid is...well...a hybrid.
I had to make those two slides heavier to even remotely resemble the heftiness of a real gun.

If for airsoft, go nuts.

THe moral of the story is...
G22 good.

Have you tried PM'ing Qlong?
He's probably the most knowledgeable Glock tech (and probably other GBBs) here with more resources....
I'd say, he'd be the go to guy for Glocks...

If you need anything from me though, you know how to reach me.
1-800-SEX-6969
:|

PS. For record, I'll try out your mod sometime in the next few weeks. I just really can't find time nowadays to sit and work on anything airsoft.
So...wish me luck! lol.

[GHOST-FACE]

this is my SAI glock 17 custom based on glock 17 marui, some pics of my job .


SLIDE :
-Airsoft Surgeon SAI Arms Costa Style Slide and outer barrel
-tanio koba twist Inner Barrel
-NineBall hop up bucking
-Gunsmodify BBU - CNC Glock Blow Back Housing
-CNC Costa style glass fiber iron sights
- Airsoft Surgeon Super Hard Loading Nozzle
-Guarder Recoil Spring Guide

FRAME:
-Guarder Original Fiber Reinforced Polymer Frame (TAN)
-Guarder Serial Number Plate (installé puis enlevé je cherche a graver mon pseudo dessus au lieu des faux numero de serie)
-Guarder Steel Trigger Lever
-Guarder Steel magazine catch
-GunsModify ZERO Hammer (Ver.3)
-Guarder 150% Hammer Spring
-Gunsmodify SAI Aluminum Adjustable Trigger (version 2)
-Guarder Magwell extension
- Stippling on the frame

MAG:
-Nineball gas route seal rubber
-Nineball high bullet valve NEO R
-speed plate magpull









https://www.facebook.com/ghostface.fulloas/...202593326618659

[jw4563]

I'm having this weird issue with my g17/g18 (it has the guns modify costa kit). Sometimes when I fire it, the slide would blowback and a big plume of gas comes flying out of the rear of the slide and the rear of the ejection port (in front of the rmr). This pretty much continues till i fire the mag until its pretty low on gas. The plume of gas is gone, but the gun is shooting sluggish at this point cause most of the gas was lost during the previous ordeal. Im using the guns modify nozzle, tm rocket valve, guns modify bbu, aip piston lid, guns modify zero hammer, shooters design 150% hammer spring. (the guns modify piston swelled a bit i think cause it wont let the nozzle freely move and the guns modify rocket valve broke). Im also using propane.