WIP: Upgrading Your Tokyo Marui Glock

[turok_t]

Originally Posted by .Zo

Not PDI, my apologies. I meant PGC.

Do you think I should swap my guarder springs for shooters design ones? I'm definitely gonna get the rocket valve but is the plastic one as good as the metal one? I don't even know where the valve would go lol, I've never even seen that part in my gun.

I would also get a PDI inner barrel and change the hop up rubber to firefly, 9ball, or A+ if your stock rubber swells or peels. Stock internals is fine and preferred to ensure proper functionality. If you're looking for a slide, try the Detonator or Airsoft Masterpiece ones, I hear those are really good with high tolerances.

[.Zo]

Originally Posted by turok_t

I would also get a PDI inner barrel and change the hop up rubber to firefly, 9ball, or A+ if your stock rubber swells or peels. Stock internals is fine and preferred to ensure proper functionality. If you're looking for a slide, try the Detonator or Airsoft Masterpiece ones, I hear those are really good with high tolerances.

I have a PDI Raven 6.01 already along with an RA-Tech bucking.

Should I pick up a Tanio Koba twist barrel? Do you think you could answer the questions in my post?

[e-luder]

I wouldn't even change your Inner barrel.

If you're running full auto, inner barrels become quite useless at shorter distances.
The stock one will suffice for most indoor CQB games.

If you want to shoot far, use your primary gun. I mean...that's what you have the thing for, right?

Even at far distances, accuracy really plummets on the G18c. Especially on Full auto. Which really puts the tightbore into the trash.

I would also advise against the Firefly buckings. These need special attention.
They have a tendency to swell up really fast.

The hammer spring...
Guarder's is fine to use. However, I do recommend using the Shooter's Design one. Recently, someone posted here of their Guarder spring breaking.
It's happened to me as well. A couple of times actually.

While with the SD springs, I've not had a single bad experience with it.

The floating valve....
It's the thing that's inside the loading muzzle.
You can see it when you take the piston apart and look at your BBU.

Metal VS plastic. Of course there's always the question of durability. And of course metal will outlast the plastic one.

However, if you choose a metal one, make sure that it's a lightweight aluminum one. Anything else will be difficult to close/open. Like ones that are made of brass, let's say...

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by .Zo

I have a PDI Raven 6.01 already along with an RA-Tech bucking.

Should I pick up a Tanio Koba twist barrel? Do you think you could answer the questions in my post?

Go with a TK Twist if you must run an Aftermarket barrel.
But make sure you tune your gun to shoot below 1J to optimize the effects of the TK Twist...

[.Zo]

Originally Posted by e-luder

Go with a TK Twist if you must run an Aftermarket barrel.
But make sure you tune your gun to shoot below 1J to optimize the effects of the TK Twist...

I already have the pdi so I was just wondering if I should switch it out. When I buy the guide spring do you know where I can find a rod? or could I fit the spring on the stock rod?

Also do you know where the metal flute valve is in stock? Can only find plastic.

[Danke]

How about this,

http://www.ebairsoft.com/glock-1718c-mount-p-7677.html

Who's first?

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by .Zo

I already have the pdi so I was just wondering if I should switch it out. When I buy the guide spring do you know where I can find a rod? or could I fit the spring on the stock rod?

Also do you know where the metal flute valve is in stock? Can only find plastic.

Look for the Action ones. I think they have them in stock at eHobby...

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by Danke

How about this,

http://www.ebairsoft.com/glock-1718c-mount-p-7677.html

Who's first?

THat doesn't look bad.
Dat aimpoint, though...

[.Zo]

Originally Posted by e-luder

Look for the Action ones. I think they have them in stock at eHobby...

Action ones of what?

[GHOST-FACE]

hi everyone, thank you for this gold mine, this guide is awesome, after having read everything, watched all the videos
Here’s, the list of update a I made :

SLIDE :
-Guarder aluminum slide
-Guarder steel outer barrel
-tanio koba twist Inner Barrel
-NineBall hop up bucking
-Gunsmodify BBU - CNC Glock Blow Back Housing
-Guarder Steel Night Sight
- Airsoft Surgeon Super Hard Loading Nozzle
-Guarder Recoil Spring Guide

FRAME:
-Guarder Original Fiber Reinforced Polymer Frame (TAN)
-Guarder Serial Number Plate
-Guarder Steel Trigger Lever (installed but removed because the cycle was not well, I reinstalled the original)
-Guarder Steel magazine catch
-GunsModify ZERO Hammer (Ver.3)
-Guarder 150% Hammer Spring
-Gunsmodify SAI Aluminum Adjustable Trigger (version 2)
-Guarder Magwell extension
- Stippling on the frame


MAG:
-Nineball gas route seal rubber
-Nineball high bullet valve NEO ‘R’ (not installed yet)

FUTUR UPGARDE :
- SAI slide costa style (black and gold)
- Firefly rocket valve

NOTE
everything is installed correctly, I spent time filing and adjusting all parts, the Glock have a very smooth cycle now.
So with Guarder 150% Hammer Spring, the slide does not block when the magazine is empty, there is not enough gas and power in the charger to block the slide. I have to test with the original Hammer spring.

i have one question, there's really a big difference between the original Hammer Spring and Guarder 150% Hammer Spring, because with the original spring i have a smoother cycle but i don’t have chrony to make test.

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by GHOST-FACE

hi everyone, thank you for this gold mine, this guide is awesome, after having read everything, watched all the videos
Here’s, the list of update a I made :

SLIDE :
-Guarder aluminum slide
-Guarder steel outer barrel
-tanio koba twist Inner Barrel
-NineBall hop up bucking
-Gunsmodify BBU - CNC Glock Blow Back Housing
-Guarder Steel Night Sight
- Airsoft Surgeon Super Hard Loading Nozzle
-Guarder Recoil Spring Guide

FRAME:
-Guarder Original Fiber Reinforced Polymer Frame (TAN)
-Guarder Serial Number Plate
-Guarder Steel Trigger Lever (installed but removed because the cycle was not well, I reinstalled the original)
-Guarder Steel magazine catch
-GunsModify ZERO Hammer (Ver.3)
-Guarder 150% Hammer Spring
-Gunsmodify SAI Aluminum Adjustable Trigger (version 2)
-Guarder Magwell extension
- Stippling on the frame


MAG:
-Nineball gas route seal rubber
-Nineball high bullet valve NEO ‘R’ (not installed yet)

FUTUR UPGARDE :
- SAI slide costa style (black and gold)
- Firefly rocket valve

NOTE
everything is installed correctly, I spent time filing and adjusting all parts, the Glock have a very smooth cycle now.
So with Guarder 150% Hammer Spring, the slide does not block when the magazine is empty, there is not enough gas and power in the charger to block the slide. I have to test with the original Hammer spring.

i have one question, there's really a big difference between the original Hammer Spring and Guarder 150% Hammer Spring, because with the original spring i have a smoother cycle but i don’t have chrony to make test.

The enhanced hammer spring causes more resistance to the slide stroke. That's why you feel more resistance than with the stock Marui one.

More tension = more resistance.

Also, you won't really notice much of a difference in FPS outputs unless you get a high output magazine valve. The Marui Glock will always top out at around 300-310FPS with an enhanced hammer spring.

What an enhanced hammer spring will do is provide a nice consistent hammer strike to the magazine valve. Thus, you'll get a more stable FPS reading or at least a tighter group of FPS outputs...

[GHOST-FACE]

Originally Posted by e-luder

The enhanced hammer spring causes more resistance to the slide stroke. That's why you feel more resistance than with the stock Marui one.

More tension = more resistance.

Also, you won't really notice much of a difference in FPS outputs unless you get a high output magazine valve. The Marui Glock will always top out at around 300-310FPS with an enhanced hammer spring.

What an enhanced hammer spring will do is provide a nice consistent hammer strike to the magazine valve. Thus, you'll get a more stable FPS reading or at least a tighter group of FPS outputs...

Thank you for the response, and What about the slide, The slide that does not want to block when the magazine has no BB'S But there is still gas but not enough to push and block the slide in rear potision

[turok_t]

Originally Posted by GHOST-FACE

Thank you for the response, and What about the slide, The slide that does not want to block when the magazine has no BB'S But there is still gas but not enough to push and block the slide in rear potision

Can you try a different magazine to see if the lever on the magazine pushes up the slide catch?

If you manually pull the slide back with an empty magazine, does the slide still lock back?

[GHOST-FACE]

About mecanism no problem it Works like a charm, And yes the lever on the magazine pushes up the slide catch,
And yes again when I manually pull the slide back with an empty magazine, the slide still lock back.
Also yes, when I filled the magazine of gas, and put on it 10 or 15 BB'S, like that it works there is enough gas after i shoot all the BB'S to lock the slide.
But full gas and full BB'S after i shoot all the BB'S there is still little gas on magazine tank but not stronger to Block the slide.
Note:I filled tank magazine for 5 to 7 seconds with ULTRAIR GAS.

Once again sorry about my english I'm Ã* french Airsoft player.

[zessy]

Good morning!

I am a French new member on this forum. So please excuse me for the faults, I'll do my best on this! I really found it was one of the most interesting and helpful regarding the Glock upgrade...

Before purchasing my Glock, I read carefully everything that was written here, but I still have questions, since I would like advices based on your real experiences with available materials to make the "ultimate" Glock.

So my base is the following:
- Tokyo Marui Glock 17
- complete guarder kit with aluminium slide, frame, 150% recoil spring, steel trigger lever, steel catch magazine, reinforced hammer spring.
- guarder metal night sights

I was very lucky since I didn't have to sand or modify anything to make it fit and work correctly, except the lever pushed by the magazine to lock the slide (it was taking place beside the button instead of pushing it, not a big deal at all). Maybe is this because of the 2013 version, that could have been enhanced by guarder to make it fit better. I was also lucky to find the kit since it is sold out almost everywhere (I ignore if this could due to the legal attacks from Glock against copy of their models).
It cycles perfectly, do not create any shooting issue, and I can shoot more or less two mags before it comes empty of gaz.

I made a mistake, that I will solve soon: I didn't try the out of box TM before the upgrade, so that I can't compare performance. Stupid, I know... It won't be complicated to reinstall the original slide to try it, and I will.

Concerning the guarder kit, I am really happy of the result, even if I can see some minor defects in surfacing on the slide

My interest with this Glock is:
- having the most possible "RS looking like", but it seems that I am on the good way.
- Improve precision and shooting distance, since I use it for target shooting only. I don't care about FPS until they bring a real + for target shooting.

First of all, a strange thing happens with the magazine which is stock, out of the box. On my USP KSC, there is no noise when I fill the gaz. On the Glock, I have a strong "pshiiit" all a long the operation, although the gaz bottle is in the correct position. Don't know if it is normal or not. The magazine fills correctly. Can you please tell me if there is some issue there?

For the rest, I would like to know if some other pieces could enhance distance and precision, without spending money for nothing in pieces that won't bring significant effects...
I was thinking mainly about:
- nozzle
- Aluminium BBU to reduce the weight of the slide
- precision barrel and hop-up rubber (is really the violet Nineball the must?)
- Somehting more important???

But you will probably be able to help me with what is fully compatible and interesting all together, and what is to be avoided, useless, or should not be mixed.

I have to say that I am a little bit lost with all the opposite advices I read an all the brands available, always promising the moon.

I also think to go for an aluminium trigger, just for more realism...
On my side, I am about to realize some grouping tests on different distances with the gun correctly blocked on a table to avoid movements. But too much wind today to even think about it.

Than you in advance for your help!!!

Zessy