FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

[juicy]

In regards to valves, thanks, Brian.

Looks like I've got some testing to figure out what works best for me. I should probably invest in a chrono sometime - it would just make everything so much easier lol.

[intinerious]

Hey guys,

I'm from HK and I'm planning to upgrade my MEU. I want to say that reading through this thread is very insightful as to what upgrades are good/bad!

Anyway, I've been searching for reviews of the KM rubber buckings for VSR/1911/MEU and I can't seem to find any.

KM seems to offer 2 types: RH45 (which I assume is the soft bucking) and RH55 (hard). I want to ask whether anyone have any experience with the KM buckings and whether there is a certain range of Joules/FPS for the soft and hard bucking.

Can anyone also provide a comparison between the KM buckings and the Nine Ball purple ones? I've read from other forums that the nine ball bucking provides a better air seal than the stock bucking but some have reported that the nine ball doesn't seem to hop .2g bbs very well. I'm planning to shoot mostly .2g marui perfect hit bbs through my MEU so I would want to upgrade to a bucking that would be able to hop .2g bbs consistently.

Also, does anyone have experience with the firefly buckings? I just did a quick search and most people say you need to file down the 'prongs' inside the chamber for consistency in shooting. I've read mostly VSR threads on this but there are mixed reviews about the firefly.

Also, this thread here says that the ideal gap is .08mm between the bbs and the inner barrel diameter. Does anyone with experience with different tightbores agree with this? I'm hoping to upgrade to a nineball tightbore with a 6.03 mm inner diameter and as I'm shooting marui perfect hit bbs, which are manufactured for a bb size of 5.95mm, and if the ideal gap is indeed 0.8mm, then it'll be the 'perfect' tightbore for me.

Thanks in advance guys!

[lontearab]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

No need to apologize, my friend. In Canada, almost all of us come from backgrounds who do not speak English as our native language. I was just curious, that's all, as we do welcome international users and like meeting people around the world.

I did not mean to say you chose the "wrong" receiver. I just mean to say that many brands and products have quirks about them. What I mentioned about the Shooters Design receiver is just a common problem that I have seen with them - maybe due to engineering error, or due to machining error. Just so you are aware of it and are prepared to make the modifications required to fit it.

fully noted and I shall act as you advise.
you know anything about "dumper" it's a thing related to spring guide recoil ??

[pusangani]

you mean "bumper" like adding a buffer or bumper to the spring guide to reduce recoil? you can add as many to your gun as you like making the gun short stroked, shooters design makes some, but you can get a similar sized washer from the hardware store that will do the same job

[lontearab]

Originally Posted by pusangani

you mean "bumper" like adding a buffer or bumper to the spring guide to reduce recoil? you can add as many to your gun as you like making the gun short stroked, shooters design makes some, but you can get a similar sized washer from the hardware store that will do the same job

thanks

[lontearab]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

See my reply to your PM.

But to summarize (as your post is slightly different now):

1) Metal barrel bushing is absolutely required to be used with straight barrel setup. Otherwise, straight barrel will not be supported and you will have huge cycling/accuracy issues.
2) V12 barrel is NOT compatible with barrel bushing setup
3) Not all Shooters Design slides will accept barrel bushing. You will need to check when you receive the slide.
4) I would recommend an enhanced recoil spring in the upgrade as well.
5) The POM nozzle set is the right one. I would just warn against using the floating valve it comes with, because it will malfunction if you use higher power gas like green gas / top gas / propane.

As for "what do you miss" that depends on whatever other performance/aesthetic characteristics you would like to achieve. But the basic issues with your setup are outlined above.

1. yup i bought the metal bushing b'coz i also bought a straight outer barrel
2. so i heard ,thanks for the information
3. i was so lucky to find a SD SHPD infinity 2 tone slide metal. it is already a rare item , all HK airsoft shop that i recognized were all sold out. i found it at small shop in my country
4. i already put it in my shopping list
5. so that's mean for the floating valve i should stick with the stock ??

i don't get the Xcelerator frame chasis however i ask suggestion from RWA ,they give me 2 option
1. Shooters Design CNC Chassis 5 inch Limited SV (Black)
2. Shooters Design CNC Chassis 5 inch Standard SV (Silver)

what's the different ??

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by intinerious

Hey guys,

I'm from HK and I'm planning to upgrade my MEU. I want to say that reading through this thread is very insightful as to what upgrades are good/bad!

Anyway, I've been searching for reviews of the KM rubber buckings for VSR/1911/MEU and I can't seem to find any.

KM seems to offer 2 types: RH45 (which I assume is the soft bucking) and RH55 (hard). I want to ask whether anyone have any experience with the KM buckings and whether there is a certain range of Joules/FPS for the soft and hard bucking.

Can anyone also provide a comparison between the KM buckings and the Nine Ball purple ones? I've read from other forums that the nine ball bucking provides a better air seal than the stock bucking but some have reported that the nine ball doesn't seem to hop .2g bbs very well. I'm planning to shoot mostly .2g marui perfect hit bbs through my MEU so I would want to upgrade to a bucking that would be able to hop .2g bbs consistently.

Also, does anyone have experience with the firefly buckings? I just did a quick search and most people say you need to file down the 'prongs' inside the chamber for consistency in shooting. I've read mostly VSR threads on this but there are mixed reviews about the firefly.

Also, this thread here says that the ideal gap is .08mm between the bbs and the inner barrel diameter. Does anyone with experience with different tightbores agree with this? I'm hoping to upgrade to a nineball tightbore with a 6.03 mm inner diameter and as I'm shooting marui perfect hit bbs, which are manufactured for a bb size of 5.95mm, and if the ideal gap is indeed 0.8mm, then it'll be the 'perfect' tightbore for me.

Thanks in advance guys!

I tried the KM rubbers, and wasn't totally impressed with them. Performance increase over stock was minimal, but they are made from a very resilient material, which is the main selling point. What bothered me the most about them, was that they seemed to be slightly oversized (the couple that I installed, anyways.) Strangely, I liked using them for AEG's, so I may try using them again in the future, but for the time being, Firefly hop up rubbers are my favorite.

RH45 for <1J
RH55 for >1J

The Nine Ball buckings, in my experience, provide the highest FPS upgrades. MOST hop up buckings are not designed to hop .20g BBs well, mainly because most shooters use 0.25g in modern GBB's. 0.20g is too light, especially at the velocity that GBB's put out these days. Even a brand new Tokyo Marui GBB, straight out of the box, has its hop up set to shoot 0.25g BB. Even the pack of BB's it comes with is 0.25g weight.

As for the 0.08g "ideal gap", my comments about that will be limited, but what I will say is this: If you can see a performance difference between a 6.03 and 6.01mm diameter bore, shooting a 0.20g spherical projectile through a 115mm smoothbore at 10 yards... then you are a god. Seriously.

For what it's worth, I did a similar test comparing 6.03mm vs 6.01mm shooting Marui 0.30g Superior Grade BB's down 7" (182.5mm) barrels at 10 yards, and........ the 6.01mm barrel did better. Barely. Take that for what it's worth.

My opinion on the debate: There is lots of speculation, assumptions, and theories... but very little (or none) scientific quantitative or qualitative data to back up any such claims. They are all exactly that: claims and opinions. Take all that for what it's worth. None of it is empirical (that I've seen so far.)

Originally Posted by lontearab

fully noted and I shall act as you advise.
you know anything about "dumper" it's a thing related to spring guide recoil ??

You may be referring to what's called "shock buffers" or "bumpers", which are pretty much different names for the same thing.

The three purposes of such devices are:

1) To absorb impact (reduce stress) between the slide and the frame.

2) They shorten the overall length of the slide stroke, and thus, speed up the slide cycling speed.

3) Some models also "bounce" or "bump" the slide forward to make it return to battery faster. Some brands do this with urethane ("rubber") bumpers, some brands do it with metal springs, but the end result is the same. Using a solid metal or plastic tube to shorten the stroke does NOT do the same thing, as solid materials merely shorten the stroke length. They do not perform a "bump" in the same regard as Pusangani mentioned.

I have not seen any such device in any form mentioned above made by Shooters Design before, but would be interested in seeing what their solution is, if Pusangani would be so kind as to provide a link to this item.

Originally Posted by lontearab

5. so that's mean for the floating valve i should stick with the stock ??

Yes, or another brand.

Originally Posted by lontearab

i don't get the Xcelerator frame chasis however i ask suggestion from RWA ,they give me 2 option
1. Shooters Design CNC Chassis 5 inch Limited SV (Black)
2. Shooters Design CNC Chassis 5 inch Standard SV (Silver)

what's the different ??

Why didn't you get the Xcelerator frame? I think it would match the SHPD slide quite nicely.

ALL Shooters Design CNC Chassis that I installed (I have installed 4 before) require the exact same modifications. I tried two "standard" chassis, one 5" "limited" chassis, and one 6" "limited" chassis.

The difference between "Limited" and "Standard", is that "Limited" has long dust cover. Also referred to as "LDC", or "Block Cut". It is longer to match the muzzle of slides that do not have a scallop cut. The SHPD slide does not have a scallop in it, so I would recommend getting either a Limited frame, or the Xcelerator frame, which is basically a Limited frame with fluting. The fluting is for style. It is not ideal for a combat/skirmish/tactical weapon, as it can snag on things. It is a personal preference, though. Some (few) people like the look off block cut slides on standard frames. I do not. Some people like the idea of using block cut/LDC/Limited setups as skirmish weapons. I do not. I find them difficult to holster in most combat holsters.

In the end, it is a style preference, and up to you which one you want to go with.

[lontearab]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

ALL Shooters Design CNC Chassis that I installed (I have installed 4 before) require the exact same modifications.

please enlight me about this modifications ?

Originally Posted by ILLusion

In the end, it is a style preference, and up to you which one you want to go with.

i love things about stylish marui hi capa custom or whatever stylish brand of airsoftgun

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by lontearab

please enlight me about this modifications

1. File back wall of magazine entrance in to chassis
2. File down area where valve knocker cover plate sits.

Hard for me to describe in detail. Pictures is better, but I do not have any on hand at this time. Practice and experience will tell you the areas where you need to adjust during fitment.

Regardless of the brand or model - almost every brand of receiver I have installed have required some little bit of trimming or filing required for the perfect fit.

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

I tried the KM rubbers, and wasn't totally impressed with them. Performance increase over stock was minimal, but they are made from a very resilient material, which is the main selling point. What bothered me the most about them, was that they seemed to be slightly oversized (the couple that I installed, anyways.) Strangely, I liked using them for AEG's, so I may try using them again in the future, but for the time being, Firefly hop up rubbers are my favorite.

RH45 for <1J
RH55 for >1J

The Nine Ball buckings, in my experience, provide the highest FPS upgrades. MOST hop up buckings are not designed to hop .20g BBs well, mainly because most shooters use 0.25g in modern GBB's. 0.20g is too light, especially at the velocity that GBB's put out these days. Even a brand new Tokyo Marui GBB, straight out of the box, has its hop up set to shoot 0.25g BB. Even the pack of BB's it comes with is 0.25g weight.

As for the 0.08g "ideal gap", my comments about that will be limited, but what I will say is this: If you can see a performance difference between a 6.03 and 6.01mm diameter bore, shooting a 0.20g spherical projectile through a 115mm smoothbore at 10 yards... then you are a god. Seriously.

For what it's worth, I did a similar test comparing 6.03mm vs 6.01mm shooting Marui 0.30g Superior Grade BB's down 7" (182.5mm) barrels at 10 yards, and........ the 6.01mm barrel did better. Barely. Take that for what it's worth.

My opinion on the debate: There is lots of speculation, assumptions, and theories... but very little (or none) scientific quantitative or qualitative data to back up any such claims. They are all exactly that: claims and opinions. Take all that for what it's worth. None of it is empirical (that I've seen so far.)

Thanks for the reply!

I've got myself a Nine Ball bucking and after installing it I can tell that the air seal is working since the pistol is a lot louder at the end of the barrel (more gas is flowing through the barrel). I'm planning to get the shooters design POM nozzle to try to increase my MEU's efficiency with gasses along with my nine ball dyna piston (a few posts back someone mentioned that the dyna piston o-ring and the SD nozzle provides a perfect air seal).

I also noticed that the nine ball bucking was harder than the stock marui one; when I turn my hop up arm to maximum, the arm tends to tilt towards the part where the hop up arm connects to the hop up wheel and from visual inspection the hop up rubber inside the barrel is also tilted to one side. I'm just wondering whether anyone have tried to modify the hop up by machining a new hop up arm with two 'hooks' that hook onto the hop up wheel for consistency in the hop? It'll mean that the 'v' part of the hop up nub will always be level within the hop up chamber and never tilt to one side for maximum consistency in shooting.

I wanted to try the firefly bucking but unfortunately the store that I went to didn't have any in stock. I also did a bit of research into the firefly buckings and apparently they have 2 'flaps' where the hop part of the rubber is? I understand that its trying to imitate the h-nubs in AEG but a lot of people on airsoft forums said that the hop up arm cramps up the flaps and leads to inconsistent bb flight paths. Many people therefore sanded down the flaps (make the rubber flat) and they said the bucking works perfectly afterwards. Although most of the info i'm reciting out of my head are from VSR threads, did you have the same problem with the firefly bucking or was it a straight drop-in component for you Brian?

As for the empirical data comparing 6.03mm to 6.01mm, this thread here had data to show that for the same set up, with the same brand of bbs, the 6.03mm was more accurate than the 6.01mm. However, I dunno what the diameter of the KSC .25g bbs are and I just wanted to point out that there is a quasi-empirical test that have been done regarding the accuracy of the barrel diameters. Of course, there would probably be many other factors such as the length of the barrel, bb quality, etc. that lead to the result above, but nonetheless I just wanted to point out that there are some evidence that the 6.03mm TBs are slightly more accurate than the 6.01mm offered by PDI. (Sorry if I went a bit too off topic!)

[ILLusion]

The Firefly rubbers were a direct drop in for me. Thank you for that thread that you linked. It's a good read. KSC Perfect BB's measure 5.95mm.

As an addition, the test that I did of the 7" 6.01 vs 6.03mm inner barrels: the 6.01mm was a brand new barrel, whereas the 6.03mm was used, but cleaned. Looking down the barrel, I did not notice any imperfections, but it may have built up a layer of grime over years of use that I was unable to remove with a simple cleaning. This could have resulted in the better performance of the 6.01mm over the 6.03mm in my test.

[Daiviet]

Good write up of the article, however why didn't the user choose both a PDI 6.01 and 6.03 barrel? that would have added a bit more consistency to the test, rather than using barrels from 2 different companies.

[ILLusion]

Well, if it helps to solve any inconsistencies in that regard, I have two custom made inner barrels here from the same manufacturer, in 450mm length - one has a 5.98mm inner diameter, the other has a 6.00mm inner diameter. Haven't had the time to test them out yet, but I will for certain.

[Daiviet]

6.00??? god damn. I want. need more power...... 450mm length lol.

[ILLusion]

Yeah, it's part of a test project for a client that I can't really go in to details with. Let's just say it's suppose to reek of awesomeness to the maximus.