WIP: Upgrading Your Tokyo Marui Glock

[mmmken]

Originally Posted by SDU_Phil

quick question regarding hk3p/TM. I jst dropped my TM internals into a HK3p frame and since then it hasnt been working properly. I've been experience 2 problems:
1. double feeding
2. trigger doesnt reset (it will fire and blowback, but the trigger doesnt reset)

any clues? I literally just took everything from the TM frame and put it into the HK3p one, not sure whats wrong?

thanks

Was the TM stuff in the original TM frame working before you transplanted them in the HK3P frame? What magazine are you using? Does the slide lock back on an empty magazine?

[SDU_Phil]

yep it was working flawlessly in the TM frame, I'm using the TM magazine and it does lock back on an empty magazine.

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by SDU_Phil

quick question regarding hk3p/TM. I jst dropped my TM internals into a HK3p frame and since then it hasnt been working properly. I've been experience 2 problems:
1. double feeding
2. trigger doesnt reset (it will fire and blowback, but the trigger doesnt reset)

any clues? I literally just took everything from the TM frame and put it into the HK3p one, not sure whats wrong?

thanks

Your trigger not resetting is usually a telltale sign of a sloppy slide. This particular problem happens when the slide cannot push the trigger bar down far enough to disengaged it from the sear. Thus, it can't spring the trigger forward like it should...

You can tell if your slide is sloppy if it wobbles side to side and up and down. When the slide humps over the hammer bearing, it will spaced apart a bit. The space created is sometimes enough for the slide not to interface with the trigger bar. Thus, it won't reset the trigger.

Also, there is a little spring attached to your trigger bar. This is the only other spring apart from the recoil spring that it is visible. It's right above the magazine chamber. Anyways, if that spring is not working, your trigger wont reset because there will be nothing to "pull" the trigger bar forward to reset the trigger to a fire ready state. Make sure that that spring is seated and functioning correctly....

In regards to your double feeds...
I can't answer this fully as there could many factors that is causing it. This can range from a hop up rubber being too tight, the arm on the loading muzzle not functioning as it should, the magazine doesn't give you enough air to push the BB out of the barrel, etc...

I would inspect how your gun is chambering your BBs and go from there....

[SDU_Phil]

thought i'd give an update to everyone, thanks for the help!

the slide fits well and isnt any movement, i've tried with my PGC metal slide as well as the stock TM custom one and had the same results.

that being said, everything seems to have solved itself, quite literally, over night. i picked it up when i got home and tried to trouble shoot it again and it shot fine, flawless....

thanks for everyones help

[Caelum]

Has anyone tried slides from SRU? Were there any fitment issues with TM G18cs??
This is the slide I am looking at: http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/sru-sr-18...bb-pistol.html

[TANNER]

+1 for the NineBall rubber, FPS jumped from 290 - 330.

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by Caelum

Has anyone tried slides from SRU? Were there any fitment issues with TM G18cs??
This is the slide I am looking at: http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/sru-sr-18...bb-pistol.html

Dunno about the TM side but I dropped this slide in my WE G18c without any issues. It's ok. I guess but the cyclic rate wasn't as good as I hoped it would be. So I modified my internals a little bit...

Haven't really had time to swap it into a Marui G18c though. But I'll see if it is ok...

[turok_t]

Tried out Guns Modify G17 V3 glock hammer, and here is a comparison between this hammer and the AIP steel hammer. All I can say is WOW! the dynamic bearing (DB) on the Guns Modify is much better than the AIP circle bearing (CB).

Here is a list of reasons why the Guns Modify is better than the AIP

1. The DB, having flat surfaces allows the bbu to glide much more smoothly compared to the CB that is rounded. The DB runs flat against the bbu, while the CB touches the bbu at one point (kinda like a tangent to a circle), but is constantly being pushed down by the bbu when the slide cycles given the cylindrical nature of the CB. Because of this, when the slide is racked even though the hammer is cocked, you feel ABSOLUTELY no friction with the DB. This is not true for the CB.

2. If you look at the picture below, you can see that the front of the hammer is much more flat and steep on the Guns Modify compared to the AIP. Again, this reduces resistance the bbu has to overcome when the slide cycles back.



3. If you look at the picture below, you can see the notch on both hammers that the sear engages. Notice how the Guns Modify notch is more sharp compared to the AIP steel hammer. As such, the Guns Modify hammer is able to be released much faster because of the drastic change in angle at the notch, as opposed to the notch on the AIP hammer where it is shaped more like a hill.




The Guns Modify G17 hammer (V3) is a drop in fit and works pretty well with my AIP sear, AIP valve knocker, and AIP valve delayer. Gun cycles with much less resistance now, and I can barely feel the hammer being cocked when I rack the slide back. Enjoy.

[kar120c]

My KJW G27 has this issue.
After pulled the trigger for firing it dosn't come back to the normal position but remains sticked.

I examined the trigger bar for some bending because when the trigger is sticked and if I pull a little the bar, the trigger snaps in the neutral position.
I upgraded the bar with the Guarder steel one but I have no solved the issue.
I think that the bar head moving in the hammer housing has caused some wearing.
Anyone knows if this is a common issue and what is the solution?

[turok_t]

Originally Posted by kar120c

My KJW G27 has this issue.
After pulled the trigger for firing it dosn't come back to the normal position but remains sticked.

I examined the trigger bar for some bending because when the trigger is sticked and if I pull a little the bar, the trigger snaps in the neutral position.
I upgraded the bar with the Guarder steel one but I have no solved the issue.
I think that the bar head moving in the hammer housing has caused some wearing.
Anyone knows if this is a common issue and what is the solution?

Did you check the trigger bar spring to see if it is intact? This is the spring that resets the trigger.

[kar120c]

Originally Posted by turok_t

Did you check the trigger bar spring to see if it is intact? This is the spring that resets the trigger.

Spring is ok, and if I pull the trigger with the bar out of the hammer housing keep it stopped with my hand it works flawlessly

[turok_t]

Originally Posted by kar120c

Spring is ok, and if I pull the trigger with the bar out of the hammer housing keep it stopped with my hand it works flawlessly

So that means that something in the hammer housing is preventing the trigger bar to reset. Maybe it's not being depressed down enough by the slide for it be reset beneath the sear

[kar120c]

Originally Posted by turok_t

So that means that something in the hammer housing is preventing the trigger bar to reset. Maybe it's not being depressed down enough by the slide for it be reset beneath the sear

The slide is not guilty, my issue is well clear pulling the trigger without the slide.
To reset the trigger I must push a little or the trigger bar or that part rising up from the hammer housing (I don't know if it is the sear)

[turok_t]

Originally Posted by kar120c

The slide is not guilty, my issue is well clear pulling the trigger without the slide.
To reset the trigger I must push a little or the trigger bar or that part rising up from the hammer housing (I don't know if it is the sear)

So that means that the part on the trigger bar is being caught in the hammer housing. If you have to push the part on the trigger bar that sticks up from the hammer housing, it means that it is not being pushed down enough for the trigger to reset. The part on the trigger bar that pushes the sear needs to be completely pushed downward in order for the trigger bar to reset.

[kar120c]

Originally Posted by turok_t

So that means that the part on the trigger bar is being caught in the hammer housing. If you have to push the part on the trigger bar that sticks up from the hammer housing, it means that it is not being pushed down enough for the trigger to reset. The part on the trigger bar that pushes the sear needs to be completely pushed downward in order for the trigger bar to reset.

A video to better describe the issue

KJW Glock 27 trigger issue - YouTube