LiPo Ready - Is My Rifle LiPo Ready? How can I tell?

[ThunderCactus]

You'd need the proper equipment to test, however what I do is just safely assume the motor (on a stock gun) would never ever draw more than 15A continuously.
I've got an M249 shooting 1300rpm at 400fps, and it doesn't draw more than 18A
For 9$ you can get a 7.4v 1600mah LiPo that's good to 32A continuous draw, that's more than any gun should require.
Anyway, hook up a fuse in the system incase your gun ever did try to exceed the LiPo's limit, obviously if you have a 24A LiPo, you'd want a 20A fuse, etc

[SniperVann]

Ok i don't have gun just yet an 1) no money 2) Still waiting on a chance to get AV'ed but i will most likely keep that in mind and thank you for your help

[deejko]

Hey guys,

So if i run a 20C 7,4 LiPo in my ICS PCR-97 with Guarder tuneup kit (400FPS), it will be "safe"? Or do I need a mosfet? I'd never run a 11,1 LiPo.

[Ming_the_Merciless]

Originally Posted by deejko

Hey guys,

So if i run a 20C 7,4 LiPo in my ICS PCR-97 with Guarder tuneup kit (400FPS), it will be "safe"? Or do I need a mosfet? I'd never run a 11,1 LiPo.

Check out ICS's video of demonstrating the split gear box functionality with lipos, it worked fine with 11.1 V, but how long is questionable.

‪ICS Split Gearbox Die Hard Test‬‏ - YouTube

[ThunderCactus]

Originally Posted by deejko

Hey guys,

So if i run a 20C 7,4 LiPo in my ICS PCR-97 with Guarder tuneup kit (400FPS), it will be "safe"? Or do I need a mosfet? I'd never run a 11,1 LiPo.

What is the mah rating on that battery?

a MOSFET switch is preferred, because its typically the next step up on the "energy efficiency" upgrade list before upgrading to LiPo.
It'll increase your rate of fire by a little bit, generally 100rpm, and increase your battery life.

If you want a SAFE system, you'll want either a simple low voltage alarm hooked up to the LiPo, or a PCB which does the same thing, but hooks up to the MOSFET and makes teh gun stop firing when the voltage is too low.

Just make sure there's a safety device in place to 1) prevent over-discharge and 2) over current draw

[IggysPiggy]

For curiosity sake thunder, is there a specific reason you run the trig wires outside? Ive wired many a fet system and never tried it that way, i personaly will modify the wire channels if need be but most are fine.

Theres no one true way i know, just curious is all.

Cheers

[ThunderCactus]

Questions are welcome lol
I'm always paranoid that the extra 2 wires are going to get chewed up by the bevel or pinion gear, so for redundancy's sake I run them outside where they can't get chewed, and since they're so thin, it's really easy to make it work

[ScottMcLeod]

Originally Posted by ThunderCactus

Questions are welcome lol
I'm always paranoid that the extra 2 wires are going to get chewed up by the bevel or pinion gear, so for redundancy's sake I run them outside where they can't get chewed, and since they're so thin, it's really easy to make it work

Funny you should mention that, I have a stock mechbox where this EXACTLY happened. I need to re-wire it now...

[logoris]

is the stock tm v2 gearbox lipo safe, its all stock except for a g and p m120 highspeed motor, i was thinking of going to a tsd 11.1v 2800mah 20c

[ThunderCactus]

NO
I wouldn't run a stock tm over 320fps, and not over 1000rpm. The piston can certainly take it, but your gears and mechbox shell are going to explode.

[logoris]

awsome thanks what upgrades wud i need to be able to use the lipo?

Originally Posted by ThunderCactus

NO
I wouldn't run a stock tm over 320fps, and not over 1000rpm. The piston can certainly take it, but your gears and mechbox shell are going to explode.

[m102404]

LOL...if you have a stock TM rifle (i.e. stock motor, stock wiring, stock mechbox)...IMO, you're best off considering a complete new mechbox & motor. Doing so will minimize the headaches you might run into with modding everything into another mechbox.

A full mechbox such as the G&P M120 or the KA M120 are very decent for the money and usually just need a check over and piston swap (IMO neither of those pistons are very good). Modify has a bunch of decent parts...and their full mechbox was pretty good too.

Err on the side of a High Torque motor vs. a high speed motor. You'll also want to consider a MOSFET to keep your switch from burining out.

If you don't want to do the learning and work yourself...you can pay a gun doc to do it for you. Some guys will be able to build you a bomb proof mechbox. Their words not mine...personally I don't think many mechboxes survive long when paired with big lipos.

A decent attempt at spelling and punctuation is also mandatory.

[IggysPiggy]

I have mechboxs running over 20, 000 rounds at 350@35rps wirh zero issues, lipos 11.1v 3300mah 45c (90c burst).

[ThunderCactus]

And I've seen a bone stock G&P mechbox last 300,000 rounds at 1200rpm and 3 years without any cleaning and it still wasn't broken.
That doesn't mean you should do it.

[lurkingknight]

is mah still a determining factor of how many rounds can be fired from a lipo as it is a nimh?

I'm putting a shopping list together and will probably convert my 2 AEGs to lipo next year, and that seems to be the only question that I haven't been able to find an answer to.

I'm probably only going to stick with 7.4V maybe a 30C though I'd have to do some digging to find out what the draw is on the motors I have, maybe I could run a 20C. Since I'm told the 7.4vs behave closer to 9.6v nimh batteries. I'm looking to maintain my RoF, I just want lighter/smaller battery packages.

mosfet and pcbs are on the shopping list plus rewiring to deans, possibly upgrade wiring, not sure what's on the guns now. And a good charger. Gearbox upgrades will be dependent on what I find inside when it comes time to look.