Western Arms SV Infinity 5.0 Limited

[safx]

Haha, putting me to the test right away eh?
Thanks for the compliment, I'm not an expert,
just a guy who's suffered a lot and spent a lot
on my toys.

Hmm, seems your WA 1911 is mismatched...
I don't think that's the stock slide for it cause
it looks identical to the stock one that came
with my MkIV Colt 1911 HiCap. Mine has the
exact same rear sight, it 's screwed through
the bottom of the blow chamber right?

Edit: Maybe they released a single and a
hicap version with same silde...

Anyway, the slide on it should be from a
Magna series gun, which means you need
the rear hammer area, completely cutout.
Matching the rear sight cutout is hard, since
most HK sites don't put up good pics. You
may want to switch blow chambers to be
able to use Bomar or Novak combos. If not
you can do what I did and get a Novak cut
metal slide, Novak sights and a slightly
bigger screw to run into the sight from the
bottom and hold it with.. a hem.. friction lol

Anyway, what you need to look for online
is a non-SCW metal slide that has a sight
cutout like yours, or a Novak (wider than yours).
Then try to make sure there is a metal gap
on the back for the hammer to pass through.

Cheers

[Crunchmeister]

On the topic of Magna. I know there are different flavors of WA guns, as you explained in an earlier post. From what I determined (I could be wrong), there's a difference between the SCW (whatever that stands for) and Magna.

I know my 92FS mag has "Magna Blow back System" on it. My 1911 mags don't. The mag that came with the gun (broken, but one that did work) has Wilson Combat on the bottom extension piece. I have 2 other working mags that don't have this extra extension. This gun confuses the hell out of me!

As far as I know, the gun is supposed to be stock except for the paint job.

[safx]

Yah my fingers hurt, and they aint even got
the cramps worth sniffin'

Magna is the original WA gbb system. SCW
is Shibuya Custom Works redesign. The
blow chamber and firing system are different
in every evolution.

Your 1911 should be able to take any of the
standard 1911 mags. Those bumper plates
on the bottom are unique flair to the model
and not needed unless you want to buy the
exact mag for your gun style.

Damn you Tys! No ICS questions. Feel free
to ask m102404 any AEG questions, he runs
a course in Toronto!

[Crunchmeister]

Thanks for your time and explanations. You've at least removed SOME of the mystery of this gun. I appreciate your input.

[Non Credo]

waitin for pics for confirmation... This: http://redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/ai...l?prodID=22284 ? Correct?

[safx]

Yep, that's a new one. It's not the old limited I thought of.

Nice gun, glad to see the bomar back in style. Only thing,
people are saying on other forums that WA's quality is
slipping starting with the SCW3's. Lots more rattling, and
some people are swapping out hammer, disconnectors
and sears from SCW2's. Read complaints about the new
titanium finish as well. Who knows, maybe you can shed
some light on the topic when your gun arrives.

[john442]

Yup, Thats the one i got on order. When it gets here will post pics and write a review. this is great stuff. ...Why do the charge so much for the WA's compared to an all metal WE Hi Capa 5.1 Full Metal (WE-M)

http://redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/ai...l?prodID=18066$90 on UNC?? do they suck? wouldnt an all metal be better or are they junk.

john

[Non Credo]

Yeah, answered your own question. I mean, WEs arent inherently bad, theres just better stuff. *a lot better stuff. Really, all they did was copied marui's hi-capa and added cool looking cheap metal kits. But I wouldnt say theyre bad... mainly because I sell them to people, I guess. By comparison to AEGs, its like Echo to Classic Army. Not going to break from regular use, but theres much better gear available for those willing to save. And this isnt to say that Western Arms is the absolute pinnacle of airsoft pistols. With this thread as good evidence, one can easily see WA's inherent flaws. But, yeah, I can give you a guide for this pistol.... gimmie a little while. And good choice, bud, congratulations.

[Lakonian]

Yepp. SCW3s seem to be lacking.

Personally, nothing beats an SCW2 Expert. Beefy hammer, great internals, and awesome finish.

Magnas are awesome too. I hope to build my baby up one day.. But.. right now it seems the TM Hicapa is the only way to fly.

[Non Credo]

hooooookay. This is specific for your pistol's version though it may work on other versions I dont really know, ask someone else. edit: My gun is apparently SCW V2, but Im not going to disassemble the hammer mechanism, so this should be a fine guide to use for maintetnance on other versions. Sorry for the horrible focus is some of the images, my camera is gay. I do this about once a week, after every time I use it, but Im pretty obsessed with keeping my pistols clean as perfect as possible. You dont have to clean it very often, but, as always, treat your gear well and it will treat you well. To clean and properly lubricate your Western Arms SV Infinity pistol:

First off find a clean flat surface to work on that wont mind getting silicone and grease on it. Keep some q-tips, or anything else you prefer thats small and able to easily collect grease and dust, and a relatively clean rag handy. Pant legs work just fine as a rag in my experience. Youll need a quite small flathead screwdriver, a set of allen keys, a can of compressed silicon lubricating spray.

To begin you want to take your slide off. Like most gas-blow-backs, this pistol features realistic disassembly. Take the magazine out and rack the slide back until the small half-moon niche, just behind the slide lock niche aligns itself with the top of the slide release, then push out on the slide release with anything thin from the right side of the gun.


If you did it correctly, the slide release will pop out just as on the real thing. You may then remove it from the gun, and pull the slide forward, and off the frame. We'll start off cleaning the slide... The common way to remove the barrel set and recoil spring from this gun somehow involves pulling back on the cylinder at the front of the recoil spring. I never learned how to do it, as I find it much easier to simply pull the barrel set down and forward through the front of the slide, as if the slide were racked while it was on the frame. Like so:


The chamber is the only thing keeping pressure on your blowback unit, the big black box thing at the rear of the slide. So now that youve pulled the slide forward, and released that presssure, you may remove the blowback unit. This is not to say that once the barrel set is forward, the unit just falls out. It isnt that easy. If you have a metal slide, its easier as you can tap the slide on something and the unit will pop out slightly, making it easier to grab and pull out. The unit must come directly down, if the slide is upright, lets say. So dont go tapping on the back of it with a hammer. It fits into the top of the slide so as to not move around. There should be a good amount of tension on it from either side of the slide, but with the proper force, it will come out. Be gentle. I wish I could be more informative:


Once youve got the blowback unit out well then its just a piece of cake. It should look like so:


What you want to do is remove the top crescent piece from the front of the unit housing, like so: BE CAREFUL. You will see from the photograph this top piece holds back a spring. When the unit itself slides forward, it is this spring that is compressing. If you bend or break this uber-delicate spring, well, I guess you could always still use the gun as a club. Wouldnt be that effective, though. So be careful, lif up on this crescent top piece slowly, taking care to notice if the spring is being bent at any odd angle. It shouldnt be, but if so, well I dunno. Use some tweezers or something and make it not bend oddly. Anyways, with the top off, it should look like so:


Once the top is removed, you may pull the spring out of the hole left by the top piece. Again BE CAREFUL WITH IT. And dont loose it, thats an even worse feeling. If you ever buy another Western Arms this becomes less of an imperative, as you can always steal this spring out of another one of your guns. Ill admit that I have had to do this once. What we want is the unit inside the metal housing. To get it out, remove both identical side pieces on the front of the housing. They simply pop out, but its damn near impossible to get at them from inside, and the outside is a smooth face, so you may have to use the tip of an Xacto blade, for example, to pry out these side pieces. In this next picture, you can see the holes left by the side pieces in the front of the housing, and the unit removed from the housing. Once you have the two side pieces out, the unit simply slides out the front, and be gentle with it, too.


What we really want in this unit is at the back, which is why we have to completely disassemble this thing. If in the gun, this o-ring is impossible to directly access. You can silicone parts of the unit while it is in the gun, through the ejector port, up the magwell, but it is easiest to clean and lubricate if you take it apart. Use Q-Tips to clean off any noticable grease or dust specs, and make sure to clean up after the Q-Tips: there should be no hairs left on the unit. As I was saying, what you really want to lubricate the hell out of is the o-ring at the back of the unit:


SILICONE IT AS IF YOUR LIFE DEPENDED ON IT. In fact, SILICONE THE WHOLE THING. The entire unit. It should slide freely inside its housing, so silicone the whole thing. You cannot overdo this. Drown that thing in silicone. It also helps if you push back on the valve at the front of the unit, and spray in the hole when the unit meets the magazine on the bottom of the unit, viewable here:


It meets the magazine right at the end of my silicone hose, and you should keep any magazines you have well lubricated at this area with silicone as well.


While on the subject of magazines, I believe your mag, being a new version, has the new unnecessarily huge mag bumper at its base. Left:: Unnecessarily huge mag bumper. Right: Prime's Aluminum Mag Bumper (awesome)


Now, once youve got the blowback unit out, then theres nothing at the rear of the slide to keep the barrel set from moving back. Dont worry, this is good. Take your barrel out, be careful the recoil spring and ts guide rod are not directly connected, they are two separate pieces. If you ever want to upgrade your recoil spring, this is where youd slip on a newer, heavier spring for faster cycling speeds. Also, while youve got the barrel out, clean out any grease and gunk that shouldnt be in the gun. Mainly... everything. DOnt worry about the gun being unlubricated, clean out any grease and re silicone it later. It will be smooth and clean.


I've found that grease likes to accumulate where the slide meets the frame, so I regularly take Q-Tips to these areas now, and re-silicone them later, to ensure that the cycling of the slide be as smooth as possible. Speaking of grease, lets get to the frame and trigger mechanism. When I first got my SV, it was used, I didnt know the former owner, but after about a few games of use the trigger refused to consistently or immediately engage the hammer. After disassembling the frame I came to blame improper maintenance, so keep your trigger and hammer systems clean. First off, you wanna get the grip off the frame. To do so, unscrew the screw on the left side of the front of the trigger guard using an allen key. You may have to use your small flathead for help on the other side.


Do not lose these screws, or their mount. They are small little devils. Keep track of them. Once youve got the screw and I guess you'd call it a nut out from the other side of the trigger guard, turn the frame over and tap it so as to pop out the mount they actually grab on to and thus hold the front of the grip to the frame.


Then use allen keys on both of the plainly displayed screws on either side of the grip,


and gently pull the frame from the grip, like so:


Once separated, pull the grip safety back upwards to further expose the hammer mechanism. If at any time you have issues with the hammer sticking back while the gun is disassembled, you simply need to depress the hammer release beneath the hammer. Push it backwards, just as the trigger would, and it magically releases. Clean out the hammer mechanism thoroughly, I would not disassemble it any further. Its not fun to deal with. After cleaning any visible grease or grit from the sear, hammer, rod, grip safety and all, lightly silicone the entire group. Try not to get any on the outside of the grip safety, it will stay there, your grip will be slippery and your hand will be greasy.


Next, pop off your magwell. Mines not the same as yours, because mine didnt come with a magwell, and I put a Dawson ICE Magwell on. FYI: It takes a good deal of filing and the real pin which fits through the magwell and through the hammer spring housing wont fit on the Western Arms. The hole for this pin is too far forward on the Western Arms, they did not make it exactly realistically, and as a result, the only way to get real magwells Like Dawson ICEs to fit are from simple friction and tension with the grip. Its on there sturdily enough, but is easily removed just with hands. Anyways, this is what it will look like on yours, poping the pin through the magwell:


once its off, the magwell will tip forward and off the grip. The hammer spring housing then slides down and off the gun:


The leaf spring underneath the hammer spring housing then pops out. All together: Hammer spring housing, leaf spring, grip:


Now, remove the magazine release by pushing in on the flathead screw on the right side of the mag release, and turning it to the left while pushing in.


If you do it right, you should feel the force of the magazine release spring give, and the release will slide as one piece out the right side of the gun:


Then just pull the trigger, and grab the block protruding from the back of the grip now, (the trigger), back and out of the grip. Youve now completely disassembled the grip. Use Q-Tips or whatever you please to clean any debris from the magwell, mag release track and most especially the trigger's track. It should be free of any grease or debris, then silicone all moving part's tracks lightly, most heavily and importantly the trigger's track through the grip.


If at any time you wish to switch triggers to any new ones you order or any of the three that come with the gun, you can easily do so now by unscrewing the trigger from ... the other part of the trigger now.


Also clean the trigger itself, then youre ready to reassemble. After much use the back of the trigger block, the flat face that pushes against the hammer release may get bent in towards the magwell. To make your trigger faster you can bend that flat face back outwards, not far, and be gentle with it, too. I know youre trying to bend it, but do it slowly, like with your hands. Airsoft Surgeon does make replacement triggers, but itd suck to have to find one because you broke yours. Reinsert the trigger, and then the magazine release. Turn the flathead screw on the right side of the magazine release to the right and allow the spring to push out. The mag release is now back in place. Before putting the hammer spring base on, put the frame back on. It is easier to align the leaf spring with the frame attached.


Screw both grips screws back in, reinsert the mount at the front of the grip from the hole in the top of the frame, and screw the brip back to the frame at the front as well. Now, the hammer release right about mid picture in the ext pic, you want the center piece of the leaf spring sitting right on to of that.


The left piece should be sitting on the trigger, an the right piece should be sticking up in the air, this is the spring that pushed the grip safety outwards. It should look like so:


Slide the hammer spring base back up over the leaf spring, make sure the hammer rod is going directly down into the center of the base, and do not move the mase all that way up until you have pushed the grip safety all the way down again, as it should normally be.


Then, push the hammer spring base up. There should be some good resistance, especially if you upgrade your hammer spring, but push up and keep it there while you put your magwell back on and reinsert the pin through the magwell.


Slide the slide back on, and pop the slide release back through. Rack the slide back and make sure the outer barrel is tight, (it just screws on and off, clockwise threads). Always make sure your outer barrel is tight, just, yknow, whenever you get the chance, after every game.


If you do get an extended slide release you may have to modify your grip. All that must be done is that you file down a niche for the extension, but you should need to take the frame off the grip to do this.


Use a rag to wipe up excess grease and lube on the gun, and... apart from that.... I cant really think of anything. Make sure to use high quality seamless polished bbs, not the crap you get at Wal-Mart. At least .20 grams in weight per bb, no .12s. Metal slides are abundant for this pistol, many different models will work. We have Prime metal slides in stock where I work in I believe black and silver, but Ill have to check and make sure thats right. Not sure what weve got in stock, its not a very popular item, but Id defintely go with a metal slide as a first upgrade, if you do plan to upgrade it... I would. ANd I guess we could ship it to you... dont really know about that either. But you could probably easily find someplace online with a slide that will fit it. If what the other users here are saying is right, using your gun with propane is severely detrimental to your slides structural integrity. In other words, it just fucks it up. And just in case you should ever drop your pistol, or an accident should ever occur, it would suck for the slide to like shatter into a billion pieces. However, a metal slide, though it will give you the ability to safely use propane, will make the slide cycle slower. This is why Id recommend an upgraded recoil/return spring. Id also recommend an upgraded hammer spring and a high flow valve for your magazine. But thats a whole nother issue.... Remember to keep the mags gassed and unloaded when storing them so as to relieve pressure on the mag springs and of course to be generally safe. Ive found that it fits all real holsters for SVs Ive tried it with, Houge, Ghost, CR Speed. Its all good. And as I said, you really dont have to do all this so often. The main thing you want to get to is that o-ring, if it corrodes/degrades over time, its a parts gun. Or a gun in need of parts. However you want to look at it. But you can defintely get away with a few sprays of silicone down into the ejection port at the blowback unit and a few up through the magwell while the slide is forward. And the trigger cleaning, I only do all that to have really crisp trigger response whenever I play, but thats probably something you want if its for IPSC...

Anyways, hope it helps, enjoy and have fun.

[safx]

Nice,

That's a rare SCW2 5" Expert you got there

[Non Credo]

Thanks. Wasnt originally mine, I wouldnt scratch up a fine metal slide like that.

I actually picked it up for only $100 USD. The seller apparently really needed money to finance a new car, and used or not, hell Ill take a Western Arms SV with a metal slide for 200 easy. And thanks also on the V2 call, I had no idea what version it was. Ive found most of my WA parts to be compatible, so the differences in versions just didnt seem so important as to be need to know things.

[safx]

No problem, glad to help Nice grab on that gun
for that price!

I have the exact same gun, in all Black. Also the 4.3.

Currently the sears are giving me headaches, so I've
ordered new upgrades from UNC made by CP. The most
common parts available for the SCW2 Infinities are
hammer and sear sets, leading me to believe they are
the weak link in the design.

[iPsy]

Originally Posted by john442

hi all,
Just ordered up a "Western Arms SV Infinity 5.0 Limited HW ( Silver ).

[john442]

WTF?? ipsy,,,,,,,,,,wanna elaborate on that.

john442

Originally Posted by iPsy