Unique Alpine TPG1 - candyman build

[Styrak]

Originally Posted by kos

Preetttyyy sure that's a shotgun.

Naw, I was just using it as any tube that a chunk of metal comes out of. :P
Not that I'm saying it looks bad or something. It looks good.

[Shooting Chef]

Woowzers...Thats what I call...geez I can't come up with the words!! I think it I wouldn't have the same reaction, if you just posted the end result. But to see how you progressed with it makes us all appreciate the workmanship and patience you put into it. Great job!

I'm sure you have the plans...you outta patent it and sell it. Just think $$$$!

[HaZarD SFD]

OMG I want to hump the thumb hole on that stock!

[philstructo]

Gun parts £278

Accesories £165

Shooting someone with a rifle you made Priceless


He could patent it or he could be the only one on a feild with it. Hell the only one in the world at that matter.

[TROOPERUSS]

Wow, very impresive.
2 questions
1 - how did you get that barrel so bloody shiney (I assume you sanded it with various grits of sand paper, but how did you polish it?)
2 - how did you machine the inner barrel? or did you just use the inner from another gun?

[ThunderCactus]

probably the same way i machined my HK11's gas tube to within .0003" of actual diameter, WET SANDING!! lol
150 grit sand paper with water at 2000RPM can get stuff REAL goddamn shiny.

I'm just saying the downsides are in your tolerances, jacob chucks slip; common unavoidable fact, and your tool height is prone to change during plunge cutting. Not saying you cant do a good job with a drill chuck, it's just not a collet. So 4 months eh? learning by yourself? excellent job! I suggest buying a machinist's handbook if you don't already have one, it's pretty well everything you need to know about machining, feedrates, propper RPMs, machinability and cutting speeds of different metals. The college course primarily teaches safety.

[candyman]

Thanks guys.

TROOPERUSS - Barrel took a while, 4 hours to machine the grooves and 3 hours to polish. All by hand, first 300 grit (or thereabouts) wet to smooth the grooves out then up to 800 wet and finally 1200. This all took 2 and a half hours then the final 30 mins with a metal polish. Best wear rubber gloves or you'll get covered!

Some final pics for you.

[shadowninja]

soooooooo sexy

[Gish]

Wow that is amazing. Some amazing work!
You should send some pics to the real maker along with some of your build pics. Bet they would get a kick out of them (Maybe even send you a hat or something)

[Styrak]

RE: the last pic.

I give up! That's kinda scary, even if it is only Airsoft caliber.

[MadMax]

Originally Posted by candyman

C.G Ive been "machining" sinse I bought the mill 4 months ago, im getting the hang of it now. I find it easier to just jump in with both feet, get my hands dirty and experiment rather than letting someone tell me what they think is best. Couple of people have told me that using a drill chuck is a bad idea, well........ so far so good, when it breaks i'll change it. Coming from cutting all the metal by hand with the WA2000 getting the mill is just like...... just like having a mechanical arm that doesnt wear out! you know what I mean though, if someone was to give me a set of engineering diagrams I wouldnt know where to begin, but once I have a picture in my head of what I want I can make it.

Good on you! It takes a good dollop of intrepidity to buy some gear and start cutting metal. One thing about using a drill chuck to mill:

Drill chucks are designed for axial loads only. In many cases they're held on with a taper fit which can come loose when you intermittently side load them (i.e. side cutting with a fluted mill exerts a radial load). If this happens the whole chuck falls off the taper adaptor and usually chips the mill. Not a huge dangerous accident with sub 1hp mills, but it can gouge a pretty deep scratch in a part you've been slaving over for hours and make you wait for a replacement cutter.

Many drill chucks also don't have an internal thread in the taper adaptor which fits in the mill spindle. Side cutting operations require an axial rod which pulls the taper adaptor into the mill spindle so they don't come loose. If the spindle taper falls out while side cutting, you can mar the inside spindle taper when the tail end of the chuck taper skids around. A marred spindle does not hold tapers well because the surfaces don't match. Unretained tapers (no axial rod) will fall out more easily and you lose coaxial alignment with the spindle and other taper adaptors.

Keep posting! You're last project is gorgeous. I look forward to seeing your WA2000.

[candyman]

Yeh I hear you on the drill chuck, the stuff im doing is so light plus all aluminium that its under very little stress fortunatly.

[Greenwolf]

I think I just soiled myself...

[Fidget11]

damn thats a sexy pair... i can bet you have a load of people all wanting to have you do builds for them

[The Lettonian]

amazing. Just amazing. How does it shoot?