March 15th, 2016, 15:39 | #31 |
Cobalt Caliber
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Guys like Thunder, Ricochet, Biorage, Red dot and myself have been doing this for a while, weve seen what works and what doesn't. Fact is playing the role of a sniper isn't terribly useful vs AEGs
If OP wants to play as a sniper then go ahead, but its not the optimal starting point. If he wants to get a G&G its an okay platform, with okay quality control. for every story I hear of someone loving their G&G i hear of one failing in a few weeks. I rarely ever hear that for VFC, plus allot of the low end G&gs come with allot of plastic internals, subpar grease, piss poor shim jobs and plastic bodies. a $300 dollar VFC will come with a meh or okay shim job (could probably use a shim or two but nothing catastrophic) , okay grease, stronger internals, and metal externals. Basically your getting what you pay for. In the end, G&G combat machines have made this sport accessible to new players every where, but you get more bang for paying more. Airsoft is simply like that, the better stuff costs more. |
March 15th, 2016, 15:46 | #32 | |
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Looking for simplicity and the model I am looking at seems to be a good package with a reliable gun that I could upgrade a bit if I wanted higher FPS. I do not care about how fast it shoots, in reality I would prefer it to be single shot only, would/will never use full auto. Thanks for all the great advice everyone, it is much appreciated! |
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March 15th, 2016, 17:01 | #33 | |
Cobalt Caliber
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honeslty 360-400fps with .20s is all you need (just up your weight to .25 or .28 for outdoor play) and youll be fine, too much higher and you risk injury and tbh FPS does basically nothing for accuracy. also thats 400 FPS with .20 gram bbs no 400 fps with .28 gram bbs, there is a huge difference in joules (energy) there. |
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March 15th, 2016, 17:17 | #34 |
FPS isn't always a great indication of accuracy.
My Marui fires way slower then my G&G but is more accurate. |
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March 15th, 2016, 17:20 | #35 |
March 15th, 2016, 17:26 | #36 |
Yep, it's kind of shocking to see. When I first got into it, the first thing I wanted to do was up the FPS of everything close to the limit of my field because I thought it'd be accurate. Talked myself out of it, took in a Marui shooting under 300fps and had no issues with range. Really knocked me out of the FPS mindset.
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March 15th, 2016, 20:41 | #37 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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Hop, barrel, muzzle energy consistency, and BBs make accuracy.
Hop, BBs and muzzle energy make range. |
March 16th, 2016, 15:34 | #38 |
Cobalt Caliber
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Thats why my only AEG is an old stock marui, never going to upgrade it past the slightly upgraded hop up, thing is 280 fps of laser. Heck I had this DMR setup scar L once that I got tuned down to 320 for a winter indoor season and the thing shot better than most anything.
Heck I got a kill one game with a 140 fps famas (oh airseal leaks) I could shoot ppl an inch from the barrel and theyd still barely feel it. Not to mention you could run faster than the BB after a few feet. FPS is nice, but isn't the end all to be all. I normally try to keep my guns around 350-370 with .20s cause then they can be used outdoors and in (almost all games alow ballpark 370-380 fps on field now a days. |
March 16th, 2016, 18:33 | #39 | |
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The guy was like "aww come on..." upon realizing what happened, shoulder shrug and head tilted down and everything with disappoint. Granted it was about 20 feet away. TM's shoot pretty well out of the box. |
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March 16th, 2016, 20:42 | #40 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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G&G is cheaper than a marui, already has a metal body, stock internals can handle 380fps, has tougher internals, has better resale value.
The marui is great if you leave it as is, but unfortunately it only excels at filling the niche role of "stock CQB gun". It hasn't been a good long term investment since you could get a full metal 380fps gun for under $400. |
March 17th, 2016, 09:50 | #41 |
I went to a local store yesterday after work and looked at the G&G CM16. Really surprised at how solid it felt, not sure why I expected them to feel really light and flimsy, but that is what I thought. I am going to go with that gun to start, just shopping around now for the best price.
I guess what I need to know now is what batteries do I need? I see a variety of battery options but no clue what is right for this gun. This is the gun I will be ordering: https://triggerairsoft.com/shop/GG-CM16-Raider-L.html this is the charger I would be buying (if it works) https://triggerairsoft.com/shop/FE-FY2200.html What do I need for a battery?? Thanks Last edited by wonderings; March 17th, 2016 at 09:56.. |
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March 17th, 2016, 11:14 | #42 | |
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LiPo 11.1V LiPo 7.4V Ni-MH Li-ion No idea what the differences are or even what improvements you get say going from a 7.4V to a higher V. |
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March 17th, 2016, 11:44 | #43 | |
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March 17th, 2016, 11:59 | #44 | |
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Even if they do come with a battery and a charger, it is recommended you toss them ASAP. You may want to order batteries and a charger from hobbyking though. |
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March 17th, 2016, 13:18 | #45 | |
How much sand CAN you fit in your vagina!?
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Hobbyking carries Turnigy-Nanotech lipos for under $10 US a piece and they are extremely solid. Just make sure to order from on the US warehouse option, or else you may be waiting awhile for your order. Also, they carry the IMAX B6 balance charger (as stated above), it's also very reliable and does a great balance charge.
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I have developed a new sport called Airhard. Pretty much the same as Airsoft, except you have to maintain an erection... |
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