WETTI/AWSS - M4/SCAR/HK416 - Technical Summary Thread

[Daviday]

I got my TSC Parts to work, info to all, you might have to sand them down until they are smooth. I've got my scar running perfectly off CO2. One quick question what type of supper glue should i use to prevent the nozel from unscrewing?

[L33]

I apologise if this is the wrong thread to post this in, but if anyone could help with the problems below I'd really appreciate it!
Yesterday at a skirmish my WE M4 misfed/misfired right from the start. It would maybe fire one round, then start 'collecting' BBs and would spit 6 or so out at a time (even with the hop completely 'off') and would 'fire' 2 or 3 times on semi-auto. I tried various quality brands of BBs and the same happened with all of them, and it happened with all 6 of my magazines.

This is a v3 which has the NPAS kit (necessary to bring the FPS down to ~330 here in the UK), stinger hop kit and the 6.02 chrome barrel. I am running co2 if that makes any difference.

Thanks in advance for any help!


Edit: Update
I've stripped the gun and reassembled, cleaning it and looking for any obvious problems. I didn't spot anything, but the burst fire/jamming is still happening. A quick pull of the trigger on semi auto will fire 2 or 3 rounds, but only the first round will exit the barrel with any speed, the next ones will either roll out or fire out in a group.
This is definately not a case of too much silicone or any dirt in the barrel or chamber/part #117, I've thoroughly cleaned and inspected them!
Any help/ideas/suggestions much appreciated!

[Shirley]

Open Chamber Magazine Kit for WE Gas Blow Back M4/M16 Series
for M4/M16 Series and SCAR Magazines.

http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_ep...roducts_id=678



Can somebody tell me how this works? You just install this onto your magazines, and throw out the brass tube? WTF?

[Qlong]

I believe the open bolt system is only available to the PDW for the moment. That kit is only for the magazine.

EDIT: Speaking of PDWs, mine is chronically over-hopping, I disassembled my hop-up and the nub seems to stick into the barrel quite a bit while in the off position. I am going to attempt to shave some off, but seeing how the hopup nub is contoured, I don't want to end up shaving one part more than the other, anyone done this before have any insight?

[m102404]

I've modded the hopup on 4+ M4's so far.

Cut/sand the nub...obviously evenly/nicely as possible. If you can shave/cut/sand it and retain the "cup" shape...let me know, I wasn't able to

I pick the rubber ring off the barrel...flip it inside out and place it back over the barrel to work on it. Holds it in place/shape good enough for me.

That setup then typically underhops...so I made a punch that I can use to punch out tiny rubber disks that I can fit into the hopup hole...then I use the ball bearing. Reassemble normally. (NOTE: so far as I know...this is similar to most of the "Stinger Hopup" setup...although that hopup rubber is custom molded).

I aim to get just the tiniest bit of hopup in the barrel with the hopup off...turning the hopup on will put more than enough on.

I also use 0.28/0.30 BBs...and they need more hop than lightweight bbs.

Seems to work well so far.

Tys

[-Trooper-]

Ya, put the flat head on one side of the screw with the indent and unscrew it until it comes up far enough for the screw driver to contact both indent points. I'm not really sure how the clear lowers are built in comparison to the full metal ones.

[Shirley]

Ha, so I don't know what the heck WE did with clear lowers, but the pin didn't reach down far enough to put the flat head into the indents. So I said fuck this shit, tried to smash it apart, and the body was fricken strong. SO I drilled a hole in the bottom and removed the spring, got the pin out, and then unscrewed on the top.
So, I'm guessing the clear lower, the hole for the buffer retainer isn't deep enough.

[m102404]

the hole depth between the plastic lower and metal lowers is different...the metal is shallower.

when swapping you can either leave the screw collet proud a thread or two...or grind the bottom of the pin down about 3 mm and it'll fit.

that's assuming you can get it out. if you can't get it out, you can use a screw driver that has had the middle section ground out...a split ring plier....a stiff small needle nose plier...you can nudge one side, then the other...basically whatever will work to get it started to unscrew for a thread or two.

........or you can mangle it.

[Affliction]

Originally Posted by Mr.Hitman

Ha, so I don't know what the heck WE did with clear lowers, but the pin didn't reach down far enough to put the flat head into the indents. So I said fuck this shit, tried to smash it apart, and the body was fricken strong. SO I drilled a hole in the bottom and removed the spring, got the pin out, and then unscrewed on the top.
So, I'm guessing the clear lower, the hole for the buffer retainer isn't deep enough.

I've owned both the tinted lower (broke) and clear lower (replaced free by Velocity arms... also broke) and I had no difficulties using a slotted screwdriver to get at the buffer tube retention spring. Maybe you had a faulty one?

Currently waiting for my metal lower to come in -- as both the tinted lower and clear lower have cracked near the rear body pin from regular use. I wouldn't call the body "fricken strong" -- I could easily snap my clear lowers in half with just my hands. Will likely shoot holes into the remaining "good" parts of the receiver (obviously after I replace it) as a durability test for any interested players.

The gun can't shoot with a cracked lower -- all the gas leaks out since the valve never returns to the proper position (the buffer tube stopper is positioned farther back with the pin-area cracked).

---

Other mod info:

Recently bought an NPAS valve -- will install soon, everything looks well made. My #66 has not broken after thousands of shots so I will likely not use my #66 in the kit. Also purchased a WA Pistol Grip -- which seems to fit fine on my WE M16 except I'll need to drill a hole to accommodate the fire selector pin/spring.

Magpul PTS PRS stock fits fine, no modifications required. Installing my 12.0 DD Lite Rail (RAS) took quite a bit of thread chasing and it still isn't on completely (You could probably get it on 100% if you have big manly he-man arms). I was using the magazine as leverage and decided to stop before I break something (I have no table-vice, which would be extremely useful to clamp JUST the upper receiver).

Left: WE M16A3. Not sure what the pistol grip is, will check if asked.
Right: Stock M16 AEG






and here is the weaksauce tinted lower (painted black). Sharp eyes will see the NPAS valve kit bag on the right sitting below a bottle of KY.... :

[z0ng]

So just picked up a new WETTI AWSS M4 the other day. It's been fine so far until today. I went home for lunch and picked up some duster so I could try that out instead of propane. Seems that at some point in time during the limited use (maybe 200 BB's through the gun so far) that the pin in the trigger assembly (Part #52 on this diag: http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/member/5...Manual0001.jpg) has gone missing.

After firing a couple rounds with duster the bolt would not go forward even after releasing the bolt catch. A little tap to the gun and it would go forward without much issue however. I openned it up to find part #52 missing and #51 loose in the trigger group.

It looks like some damage may have occurred to the trigger itself, as part #51 does not appear to spin correctly and shows signs of a metal on metal impact (matching indentation on part #50 and #51).

Does anyone know the dimensions on part #52? Would like to try and find a replacement so I can get this thing working again and at least try it at one game.

[z0ng]

Oh glee! After returning from work irate and completely pissed off I managed to fix my gun!

So playing around I realised the gun would no longer go into safe anymore. This let to exploring beneath the safety selector with a flashlight and some toothpicks. I eventually dug out part #52 from way down in there (looks like it wasn't lost after all).

After deforming the end of the pin a little so it stays in the hammer assembly better I reinserted it. Reassembled and gun is shooting just fine again.

I made sure to not sit there and try firing my gun repeatedly while it was in this 'broken' condition. Thereby hopefully avoiding any unnecssary wear on any other parts. Just to play it safe though I ordered some extra internal bits and a replacement set for parts #50, #51 and #52 so when the time comes I can rebuild this thing.

Yay for not being useless!

[Cottoni]

Originally Posted by ex

Sadly my bolt still does not lock back no matter what I have tried. I just dont know what to do now. I thought I had it fixed...until I went to the field..didnt lock back once.

Not sure it has already been posted here or if you have already tried this, but there is a mod posted on Arnies about adding a regular AEG shim behind the bolt catch which supposely makes it run flawlessly and catch most of the time as the bolt catch stays straight when the bolt catch plate pushes it up and it catches the bolt with a larger surface than before.

Add shim between the bolt catch and the receiver.

[Greydingoe]

I had problems with my pdw with it locking every shot, all I did was stretch the bolt catch spring, now it never locks till the mag is empty

[Eeyore]

Part # 27 is broken on my WE SCAR. Is there anyone who sells a replacment part? If you followm the red arrow it looks like there was a bubble in the metal from a poor casting.

[z0ng]

Thought I'd update on this.

The fix I performed earlier managed to work for a few weeks and then I noticed the roller pin coming lose again. Tried further deforming the end of the pin with grooves on it in an attempt to get it to stop coming loose still when in place. This lasted another couple games until about 3/4 of the way through the FR Night game on July 3rd where at one point the gun jammed on me. After opening it up noticed the roller pin had once again found it's way down beneath the fire selector.

Fixed the problem this time by removing the trigger assembly and replacing the hammer/roller/roller pin combination with new parts. So far things seem to be solid.

Originally Posted by z0ng

Oh glee! After returning from work irate and completely pissed off I managed to fix my gun!

So playing around I realised the gun would no longer go into safe anymore. This let to exploring beneath the safety selector with a flashlight and some toothpicks. I eventually dug out part #52 from way down in there (looks like it wasn't lost after all).

After deforming the end of the pin a little so it stays in the hammer assembly better I reinserted it. Reassembled and gun is shooting just fine again.

I made sure to not sit there and try firing my gun repeatedly while it was in this 'broken' condition. Thereby hopefully avoiding any unnecssary wear on any other parts. Just to play it safe though I ordered some extra internal bits and a replacement set for parts #50, #51 and #52 so when the time comes I can rebuild this thing.

Yay for not being useless!