Is leaving your battery in ok?

coach · February 27th, 2009, 09:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by incrediboy729

Yup that's good advice for a newbs. That would really suck to have saved up your money only to have a newb rip his gun apart to replace an over-settled spring. Hehe.....ever had to open up a fully cocked mechbox?
Thanks for you myth-busting help guys!

yes. twice. both successfully since I had a fairly thick screwdriver inserted into the spring guide. opened the box from back to front and slowly released the spring as to not allow the piston to go flying.

Shirley · February 27th, 2009, 11:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by coachster

yes. twice. both successfully since I had a fairly thick screwdriver inserted into the spring guide. opened the box from back to front and slowly released the spring as to not allow the piston to go flying.

LOL happened to me the first time ever touching and opening a gearbox too. And Illusion laughed at me.

incrediboy729 · February 27th, 2009, 13:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by coachster

yes. twice. both successfully since I had a fairly thick screwdriver inserted into the spring guide. opened the box from back to front and slowly released the spring as to not allow the piston to go flying.

Yeah thank god i only have had to do it once (and thankfully on my own gun).
Inserted a screwdriver and spring guide, held the cylinder and slowly opened until i heard a painful *THWACK!!*. Scared the living crap out of me. Luckily everything was ok. I think it was like my 3rd opening of a mechbox so still pretty new to the whole process...

Quote:

LOL happened to me the first time ever touching and opening a gearbox too. And Illusion laughed at me.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA!! Sorry...

coach · February 27th, 2009, 21:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by incrediboy729

Yeah thank god i only have had to do it once (and thankfully on my own gun).
Inserted a screwdriver and spring guide, held the cylinder and slowly opened until i heard a painful *THWACK!!*. Scared the living crap out of me. Luckily everything was ok. I think it was like my 3rd opening of a mechbox so still pretty new to the whole process...

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA!! Sorry...

get the Modify anti-reversal latch. you can release it with a small flat head screwdriver to release the gears/spring. worth ever single penny!

http://www.airsoftparts.ca/store2/in...roducts_id=674

or just get the Modify modular gear set. Comes with it!!! No shimming and a piece of cake as they are drop in in with no fidgeting!

LUTNIT · February 27th, 2009, 21:42

I release anti-reversals with a pair of pliers, just go in the motor hole and yank on it. Just make sure you don't pinch the little spring on it, they break easy.

Even if it is cocked I find once the mechbox starts to open a touch, the sector gear will come loose and the piston will shoot forward. Assuming you are holding the front of the mechbox even lightly, there will be no problems.

Quote:

Originally Posted by coachster

or just get the Modify modular gear set. Comes with it!!! No shimming and a piece of cake as they are drop in in with no fidgeting!

And you can't install a sector gear clip for highspeed, and the spur gear large section or bevel gear strip easier than standard gears because the teeth are so small, and they don't fit in all mechboxes even from the same manufacturer, and the set I had rusted without being exposed to water or moisture within a month...

Shirley · February 27th, 2009, 21:45

I find the anti reversale a bitch to stay in place as well as the stupid trigger. Those two gives me the brain explosions, worse then the 130 spring that can hold in place..

kalnaren · February 27th, 2009, 21:50

I don't want to hj the thread, but since it's going in this direction anyway.. what do people find the best way to release tention from a wound mechbox before you open it? The motor hole on a V3 is really small and hard to get pliars in, but last time I tried to pull up the anti-reversal latch the spring ended up jumping off and meshing itself in the gears, bending out of shape to no end and preventing the mechbox from unwinding.

LUTNIT · February 27th, 2009, 21:58

I sometimes use a screwdriver to turn the gears until it "fires."
Other times if I can't get to the anti-reversal I just open the mechbox anyway. I have opened at least a dozen mechboxes with half to fully compressed springs, its not too hard to hold on.

As for batteries...all batteries drain over time even when left full. Best way to store them long term (3 months or more) is to charge them to 60-80% and put them in the fridge (NOT the freezer.) Also totally draining batteries is sometimes known as dead shorting them, this is bad for a battery REGARDLESS of type. Most little dischargers totally kill batteries, this is horrible for them, you want to use a computer controlled discharger that doesn't drop the voltage below 0.9V/cell for NiMh or NiCd, 3V/cell for LiPo. NiCd packs should NOT be discharged before charging each time and again should NOT be discharged until totally dead. Discharging it to 0.9V/cell every 2-3 charges is healthy. On that note NiMh packs should be discharged (again, to no lower than 0.9V/cell) once every 20-30 charges (or once or twice a season, depending on how often you play.)

On the note of anti-reversal I have worked on several guns where the anti-reversal had been shimmed so it was moderately loose but not totally stiff. This resulted in the gun randomly unwinding a couple teeth on the sector gear after a full auto burst. To get it to stay in place when it wants to jump out I use some thick grease to hold it in place. I use white lithium grease from Canadian Tire for all gun work and it works fairly well but isn't so thick it will cause it to gum up (but the spray can of white lithium grease I have does.)

When a trigger keeps popping out it usually means the wires under it from the trigger switch are not flat or the trigger spring is not pressed down to the bottom of the mechbox shell enough. I have never had a trigger pop out of a ver.2 after checking those two things, ver.3 on the other hand...

e30_325i · February 27th, 2009, 22:30

I think this went a little of topic.

Styrak · February 27th, 2009, 23:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by kalnaren

I don't want to hj the thread, but since it's going in this direction anyway.. what do people find the best way to release tention from a wound mechbox before you open it? The motor hole on a V3 is really small and hard to get pliars in, but last time I tried to pull up the anti-reversal latch the spring ended up jumping off and meshing itself in the gears, bending out of shape to no end and preventing the mechbox from unwinding.

Nothing, I just open it and let it "pop" then fully open it.

kalnaren · February 28th, 2009, 00:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by Styrak

Nothing, I just open it and let it "pop" then fully open it.

Thats what I did... and now my mechbox needs a rebuild. It seriously foobared everything.

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February 27th, 2009, 21:45	#21
Shirley A-56 aka Mr.Hitman Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Toronto, ON	I find the anti reversale a bitch to stay in place as well as the stupid trigger. Those two gives me the brain explosions, worse then the 130 spring that can hold in place.. __________________ CANADIAN AIRSOFT PRACTICAL SHOOTING (CAPS) CAPS DIRECTOR # 0047

February 27th, 2009, 21:58	#23
LUTNIT Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Ottawa	I sometimes use a screwdriver to turn the gears until it "fires." Other times if I can't get to the anti-reversal I just open the mechbox anyway. I have opened at least a dozen mechboxes with half to fully compressed springs, its not too hard to hold on. As for batteries...all batteries drain over time even when left full. Best way to store them long term (3 months or more) is to charge them to 60-80% and put them in the fridge (NOT the freezer.) Also totally draining batteries is sometimes known as dead shorting them, this is bad for a battery REGARDLESS of type. Most little dischargers totally kill batteries, this is horrible for them, you want to use a computer controlled discharger that doesn't drop the voltage below 0.9V/cell for NiMh or NiCd, 3V/cell for LiPo. NiCd packs should NOT be discharged before charging each time and again should NOT be discharged until totally dead. Discharging it to 0.9V/cell every 2-3 charges is healthy. On that note NiMh packs should be discharged (again, to no lower than 0.9V/cell) once every 20-30 charges (or once or twice a season, depending on how often you play.) On the note of anti-reversal I have worked on several guns where the anti-reversal had been shimmed so it was moderately loose but not totally stiff. This resulted in the gun randomly unwinding a couple teeth on the sector gear after a full auto burst. To get it to stay in place when it wants to jump out I use some thick grease to hold it in place. I use white lithium grease from Canadian Tire for all gun work and it works fairly well but isn't so thick it will cause it to gum up (but the spray can of white lithium grease I have does.) When a trigger keeps popping out it usually means the wires under it from the trigger switch are not flat or the trigger spring is not pressed down to the bottom of the mechbox shell enough. I have never had a trigger pop out of a ver.2 after checking those two things, ver.3 on the other hand... Last edited by LUTNIT; February 27th, 2009 at 22:03..

February 27th, 2009, 22:30	#24
e30_325i Trader rating Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Port Elgin, ON.	I think this went a little of topic.

Is leaving your battery in ok?

Airsoft Guns Discussion